I was able to get bearings and the shaft seal from a vendor in France, as well as the bearings straight from GM. Trans shop is putting it back together now.

However, it seems like it will take a while for Centerforce to get a clutch solution. The last 2 emails include phrases that tell me this is going to be a 6+ month project: "Thank you for your patience on this. We do not specialize in custom products." and then "engineering has multiple projects right now." So in the meantime, when the trans is ready, I will probably install the 6-puck with heat treated pressure plate. My worry with that one is that the pedal will become really stiff and could contribute to crankwalk if it's got a huge force being applied. Changing the engine anyway but still.

Took the car to my fabricator friend's place but I mistakenly thought we were gonna work on things right then and knock it out in 1-2 days, but actually he was just squeezing me in so he's gonna do the fab stuff I need (redo charge pipe, build intake pipe, add resonator to exhaust) over the course of the next week and then we'll both install the brakes and see if they fit. If not, we'll make it work.

He also confirmed for me that it would be far better to get a rust-free Alero and strengthen its chassis (adding the half cage, fender bars, and other bracing to make it sturdy) than to go through and try to fix up this Alero. I had recently planned to just fix up the Alero I have, thinking it surely can't be too bad - you can repair any rusty stuff, and you can, but he says it's not worth it when you start adding up the time involved. So I immediately went to check Facebook marketplace and the car I was eyeing sold a few hours before. My luck. :)

Bought a truly 100% rust-free Alero today. Never seen one without rust before. Unfortunately it has a few dings and that nasty crease behind the driver's door, but it will all be fixed before painting.

Time to remove literally everything from it, cut the holes to support a clutch pedal etc., and figure out what to change in the engine bay to support wire tucking and making it super clean looking. Weld up a cage and other bracing.

Wow nice! Did not know your car had any rust issues. Sorry to hear that. Best of luck moving forward with your new build

Is this the car from Facebook Chris?

Yep. As soon as my fabricator said I should get a rust free body, I went to buy the damage-free one but it sold just hours prior. So next best thing was this one. $3200.

Turns out the front rotors I got don't have large enough holes to fit the Alero's 5x115 studs. Need to have a machinist mill them. They're currently set exactly for the 5x120.7 pattern that the 2006 Corvette C6 Z06 uses.

I figured that might be a concern but didn't check. I found a local machinist who can do it on Saturday, amazingly.

Good deal. Post a pic of them if you can please.

How far have you got on your rust free body swap so far? Hoping for no major problems....

Hopefully you will not have crank-walk issues with a heavy clutch either. Was not considering that side of things. Did a little digging on the internet with no real solutions. A high hp Supra owner disconnected their clutch switch so they could start it in neutral. Dangerous, but would def help prevent wear on cold starts. Really wanted to see what the old timers did about it back in the day of 4speeds and v8s but had no luck. Praying it will not be an issue for you.

Lots of pics coming in the next 2 days for sure


Oh that's the long term project. It's been sitting in my driveway in the same spot since the day I drove it home. Gotta check my fabricator's schedule and take it there to be stripped down. I don't have enough room right now for the vehicles I have, and don't want to leave my cars outside while I slowly remove all the parts from that one in my garage lol. My main focus is getting the blue one comfortable to drive in the meantime.

Yeah that's one reason I'm hesitant to use the 6-puck that just showed up (finally) with the higher force pressure plate. Centerforce is still actively working on making a solution for me, though. I recently gave them a bunch of measurements, so maybe they'll have the "Goldilocks" just right option that's smooth and enjoyable but will hold the torque when it needs to.

My new quad projector headlights are ready. All four act as low beams (and high, when switched). Sorry to everyone else when I go over hills lol.

• Morimoto Mini H1 8.0 projectors
• Morimoto H1 5000K HID bulbs
• Hylux 35w HID ballasts
• Morimoto HD quad wiring harness

Those headlights look awesome... definitly would love to see some output shots of them and how the pattern goes compared to my single projectors... I've debated doing a set with the 4 projectors as well...

Definitely will do. I was supposed to have my photoshoot today but with how last-minute things have been with my fabricator, I can't do it. Gotta reschedule yet again. Two major visual modifications were not completed:

The wheel spacers for the rear require longer studs, which I did not find out until last night when I suggest we make sure they fit.

The brakes were put on hold at first because the rotors were a different bolt pattern, but now because they claimed the bolts I have don't work with the calipers. After some research last night I don't see how that's possible. The F-Body and N-Body both use the same M12 x 1.75 bolts, and that's the thread size for the CTS-V calipers. I have a feeling one of his young underlings stupidly tried to use the bolts that hold the Camaro calipers to the caliper bracket, when in reality the CTS-V calipers bolt directly to the steering knuckle....

So without the brakes or my wheels spaced properly, I didn't want to waste $500 on a photoshoot. Plus my fab guy was only installing the new resonator today and would be done by 5:30PM. Way too late for me to clean the car and drive really damn far to go meet up with this guy before it gets dark.

Says he can't actually adjust the fitment between my passenger door and fender due to there being too much rust. It's been a long-standing issue that appeared when I had the car painted in 2013 - a horrible creak/groan due to the door colliding with the fender.



And here's my new charge pipe off the turbo. Kinda ugly until it gets cleaned and polished/powdercoated, but it avoids colliding with anything (I hate rattles). The next car we're going to relocate the fuse box, and change the brake master cylinder to one that can be relocated/hidden as well, which will clear space to run a 4" tube and the giant air filter I have.

I'm not sure why literally no one mentions this, unless my Power Stop remanufactured CTS-V calipers have been drilled and tapped larger... but the factory Alero (and F-Body) mounting bolts (which should be M12 x 1.75) just slide right through the caliper's mounting holes.



Based on all my research across forums and GM parts sources, the CTS-V, F-Body, Alero, etc. all have M12 x 1.75 threads. I went to the hardware store and found out the calipers actually have M14 x 2.00 threads. Ordered some flange head class 10.9 black oxide screws in 35 mm and 40 mm (in case we need to space anything out to line up the caliper with the rotor).

Those caliper bolts look like the same size used on the front caliper of the gxp that uses a 13" rotor... I have debated drilling my knuckle to use them over the standard F- body front calipers I currently use, but haven't made any decisions to date since they're is still so many other things on my list to finish first...

My picture shows the stock Alero screws (M12 x 1.75) loosely floating in my apparently uniquely threaded (M14 x 2.00) CTS-V ones.

Hopefully late next week everything will be buttoned up and I can adjust and take pictures of the new headlights and brakes as they look installed, and get back on the schedule for my photoshoot.

Of out curiosity, what's the normal application for these rotors (what vehicle are they for)?

--v

Turned out great. Machine shop did a good job with the rotors too. Odd about the 14mm bolts. Keep the pictures coming

The calipers had to be spaced outward a bit to be centered on the rotor, and my wheel spokes collide with the calipers.

I need 10mm spacers to clear properly, so now I'm waiting for those to be made. Always something delaying my ability to drive this thing. My front wheels are going to be poking so bad. They already stick out the maximum I would want them to. Will have to see how much negative camber I can add.

Bad news from Centerforce on figuring out the ideal clutch:

"Chris, as of right now we do not have anything that will fit off the shelf. We do however have another project that is in the works, and it may offer us some flexibility. That will not be completed for a bit though. Please be patient with us on this one. This is not a highly demanded item so other projects are ahead of it for development time. We continue to work towards some options for you, but I cannot really say how long it will take to figure this out."

As a fellow business owner with multiple projects, I wouldn't estimate them having something for me until next year.

Current clutch has no springs, is definitely way too harsh on the drivetrain and is uncomfortable and frustrating to drive. It must be replaced.

Option 1: Clutch Masters 850 Super Single. This is a larger diameter clutch, with springs, but only one disc. The disc is a large surface one though like what's used in the twin disc setup. I think my only fear is that that the single disc may not hold the power.

Option 2: 6 puck clutch with higher force pressure plate. I used to drive a 6-puck, and while it did catch me off guard a few times, it was driveable. I'm told that "not all 6 pucks are the same" so it might feel totally different (better or worse) than what I used to have. It having a higher force pressure plate also concerns me that not only will the pedal be harder to press, but it could lead to problems that force acting on the crankshaft over time.

Option 3: Use my measurements to reach out to another clutch manufacturer that supposedly is capable of making OEM-feel high torque holding clutches.

Dangit man. More bad news, but hopefully the brakes will be sorted out rather quickly.

Any thoughts of building an automatic at this point?