Yeah i was scared of dumping too quickly and catching a curb or something like that... I went with 1/4" lines all the way with mine... I also used a little Larry's fourplay switch instead of electric valves... I can control the up/down speed by how much i push on each toggle... I've got a couple small leaks i need to trace but so far for my first air ride I'm having a blast lol

that larrys fourplay looks like a neat idea. Seems like it would be more fun with bigger lines and valves

i totally have done the dump too quickly thing. my friend leaned on the switchbox as we were turnin into a parking lot. Dumped driver front side. Peeled a 2 inch wide patch of tread off ALL the way around a brand new tire. Looked like how an apple peeler looks when you start to peel an apple lol. It caught on where the inner fenders are cut to allow clearance. left a sharp edge perfect to catch it on only if youre turning. luckily the fender didnt get chewed up.

edit: use some soapy water in a spray bottle to find those leaks. do you use teflon tape, or loctite, or what?

Yeah i love the fourplay... It can use up to 1/2" lines but like i said i don't want to dump too fast... Especially if someone hits the switch haha...

I used loctite on all my fittings, some are ptc's though and I'm wondering if i didn't get either a straight enough edge or just not pushed in quite far enough for a tight seal... And yeah a soapy bath will be used when i can find time...

switched over to easystreet rear struts and Richie was definitely right. The car sits about an inch and a half lower. Makes a big difference. Also never really noticed how much cutting went into making this thing sit as low as possible. Theres a mini tub job done to the driver side rear lol. passenger side has way more room, so it wasnt needed there.

Did you get any pictures of those tubs? I've heard the front needs trimmed a bit too...

Yep. Here's a couple of the back drivers side. Inside the trunk. And also in the wheel well of the front driver side.

And here's one of the rear from the wheel well. The driver side is the only one needing room it seems. The fuel filler being on the other side opens things up and there's plenty of room over there.

Sweet thanks for the pictures!!! I'll have to check mine to see if I'm rubbing at all there... I'm only sitting on 17's right now so i could be clear unlike the 20's you're on haha!!

Also i forgot to show the part directly below the door strike is cut out too on the rear. it sits so low now its perfect. i was never really at the height Richie had it at until now. I didnt want all that hard work going to waste, so its now back on easystreets and sitting low as hell. Actually it is on stands again while putting in ball valves and schrader valves on each corner. now I can isolate each corner if there is a leak or compressor fault and then fill it up like a tire. Also should be able to use the ball valves as a speed reducer too so it doesnt always have to be set up to lift super fast either. Big valves are fun to show off at first, but slow adjusting is nice too sometimes.
Also, I have some 18" centerline dynos I can throw on and check clearances, but it should be a similar overall diameter either way. the 20s have a tiny sidewall and are only 7.5" wide. I need one more tire for my centerlines though.

nice!! Those 20's suit that car so well though lol... I'll have to see what your wheels look like on there haha!!

I put a single Schrader on my tank to use in case the comps fail... If the car is aired out it'd be pretty hard to get into the bag to fill it up, where with mine i can fill the tank and still use my switches to lift me up... Plus it'll give me some extra air supply in case there is a slow leak in a line or bag to get me home... That's my thought process anyways!! Hopefully i don't have to test it out anytime soon!!!

right. Thats why i put the schrader at the end of a ss leader hose in the trunk. The pic with my hand and the ss braided line... the hole in the rear strut tower goes right to the outlet of the bag. but on the other end (in the trunk) has a T and the schrader is right there. just gotta fold the back seats down.

edit: also by having 4 schraders and ball valves, if a line fails, or valve gets stuck (or frozen for you up there in Canada) or the checkvalve on your compressor fails and you start losing air quickly, you can just isolate the bags from the tank and compressors. And it makes working on the car easier too. if you need to take off an air line or whatever and you dont want to have the car layed out. Hell, i can remove all my solenoid valves, my tank, my compresors, and still roll it around town. just no on the fly adjustability, and my air sensors will read incorrectly.

That sounds awesome!! I'm new to the whole air ride and I'm still learning tricks like that!!!

My car is pretty much off the road for winter, I'll take it out probably once more to give her a good wash and top up the gas tank and she'll be away til spring... I still have a bunch of work to get finished hopefully over the winter to get ready for paint and put the interior back together again haha

This arrived this week.

This is the only way I've found that you can get new struts for the old Easystreet setup. You order pn 35335 for the rear. This is as far as they'll break down their "universal strut kit" I don't need the bag, just the strut to replace the one that's leaked since I bought it (used)

I've tried UAS "sleeves" over stock struts. They rubbed. Not bad, but they did. And they didn't sit as low as the Easystreet rears.

This new bag has an internal "bumpstop" that seems like it wouldn't allow you to go as low as the old easystreet kit. But I also think they sent me the wrong one. Kinda. I wanted the "short strut / short bag" but the one I got seems like it's a 5 inch rubber, not the 4 I talked with Air Lift about. No matter I guess, since my old bag is fine, just the strut inside. So the idea is to take the strut out of this one, and the strut out of my old one, and swap. Gotta grind welds off the old one and remove the outer tube, then slide it over the new one and weld. Might end up just making a new tube. Kinda hard to describe, but I'll take pics of the old one when I take it off again.

As for now. The car sits on the used easystreet rear struts. The one that leaks is still ok, but not for much longer. These sit super low, and ride decent.

please get different rims. the current ones make me gag

Lol.

It's a shame the wheels don't meet your discerning tastes (and that you have such a weak stomach)
However, your opinion means very little to me.
That being the only thing you could contribute to the thread says a lot about you.
You won't find me stepping into your threads to leave any negativity, even if the opportunity presents itself. Which in your case it certainly does lol.

I do have some 18" forged Centerline Dyno wheels if those might suit your refined tastes any better. However the wheels on the car suit it just fine to me. They tuck, and leave literally millimeters in clearance when laid out.

I appreciate that you have an opinion, and that this is a public forum, but
when I post a thread asking for wheel comments, you make sure you post in that one.


Anyhow.....
I took the car for a nice long drive today. It drives really nice still.Pulls hard and rides smooth down the freeway. Hard to believe I've had it for 8 years. Here's some current(ish) pics. It's not as dirty as these pics show. I cleaned it up a bit since. I only have a limited amount of time/energy/money I put into cars and modding these days. Being in my mid 30's owning a business and having 4 daughters is as time consuming as it gets.

even with her slight flaws from old age she's beautiful man...

And just for shits n giggles, if you ever decide to sell those 20's I'll take them!!! I tried to make a deal with Richie on them when he was selling the car/parting it out... I guess you made the deal for the whole car at the same time so you won haha!!!

I'll keep you in mind if I ever part with them. I don't see it happening, but stranger things have occurred.

And thanks. It's a blast of a car to have as a toy/project.
And if you look in the background of the rear interior shot, there's a peek at the last remnants of S&S Headers. Its a non welded set of headers I'm planning on using to do a nice set of tubular manifolds for it. Down the road still a bit. Should see nice gains over the log manifolds the turbo setup uses now.

the 18" forged Centerline Dynos are really nice...i think i dont like the current ones because i like a wheel with a more matte or brushed finish....think bronze te37´s