New Hood Option
 

Looks like this company has made the SS style hood for the Alero. Maybe, at least. Who knows if it's legit, but I saw it and figured I'd post it.

http://www.vfiberbodykits.com/9904-o...d-p-21869.html

Its not bad. If I still had red, I would have considered it (hood was starting to rust)

Thats a good price too.

Could be badass lookin...

Here's a real quick photoshop...

Agreed, depending how sturdy it is.

oooooooooohhhhhh:ninja: billy likey....haha now that im gonna have consistent cash flow i MIGHT be interested.....i dont wanna waste money on a cheap hood though thats the thing. so people, feel free to buy it!! PLEASE!?!?!?!

Not new been madeby extream dimesions forawhile had vents on side to though on eBay for like 350

ugly
i`ll make my own

No, that is the Spyder 3 hood. Nothing like the SS one.




Who needs a photoshop, here's a real picture, at least of one that's similar... not sure if it's exactly the SS style:

ugly, i have never liked it, it has been done on a couple different aleros before.

beside i'm sure the fitment is crap....

Most likely, and you see it on every Cavalier and Camaro and most other cars with aftermarket hoods.

I might get one just because of the price...

is the hood scoop even functional?

no, unless you cut a hole in it

boatec or nothin

well then it's gay and useless

that would be a fun project for me if i got an extra hood and scrap metal....how would you grind down the welds in the corner of the cowl and the stock hood... how do u get in there/what do you use?

Also the angle of how high it starts and goes until the end.....and making it perfect with no hard edges. it would be timely, but a VERY interesting project that i am willing to take on when i buy a 120v welder

I'm gettin' this one:





;)

Noice!!!! i'm gonna make my boatec hood functional like my old one.....

Make sure its a MIG welder. You might actually want to find a 220V.. I know lincoln electric sells the 140 model, or that's the amperage, anyway I would choose that, and speaking of which Im going to check one out today..

140 amp is just right for the thin metal on cars today anything over is overkill, and 120 volt is fine, just plug it in the outlet and go, billy if you can master the english wheel and become a fabricator, re skining the hood is the way to go
when i start my project pics will be up

That VFiber shit is such poor quality.

What's the best unit you can get up to 120V? Sorry, I know you been probably asked that a lot here.
I had a Hobart years ago, but it got stolen.

I bought a used Clarke 120V w/ gas (using 75/25 right now), so far it's een good for welding on my car.

i personally like miller welders

are fiberglass body parts ok through winters? (-30 celsius)

agreed......

Meh, not that impressive... its the camaro SS hood... which is on every rice rocket cavalier and honda

should be, but you have to make sure you have them painted properly. (ie: primed, painted, cleared, baked, etc) because the paint flexes at different rates in the cold than fiberglass...the paint will crack and maybe chip. Camaro doors are fiberglass, if that's proof enough for you.

RE hoods.
 

Well the ones posted are ok just not my style.

oh as for welders.. see mine..

camaro doors are not "fiberglass" it is called "SMC" same as the hoods on the f-bodies, ford uses it, gm uses it, dodge uses it, and we dont use "fiberglass" to fix it either, we use a product made for "smc" the 2 are totaly different products

the only time we ever bake a car is to get the car done faster, if a car has to go in 1 day, we bake it at the products specs, like ppgs clear should be cooked at 140-160, thats the only time there is no need to bake clear anymore

in my 20yrs i have never seen paint chip off crack off or flex to the point where it will fail on the panle, lets look at saturn the "abs" panles on the car will crack before the paint does, so i say hes good, nothing to worry about

thanks for clearing it up...but I had a FG/CF hood that was NOT painted properly, and when winter rolled around, the paint cracked. It can happen.

That hood looks nice but it looks cheaply built

like i said paint doesnt crack, i dont give a flying rats ass paint doesnt crack bottom line, maybe the carbon fiber cracked and it looked like the paint cracked, but today`s paint is made to withstand extreme temps
everything from the etch prime, to the e coat, base and sealer and clear is all made to stand extreme temps<<yes i`ll say it again
now back in the 80`s and 90`s when companies tried to do a water based base over a enamle sealer, well we all know what happened with those cars, and i have seen crow`s feet in older paint

but 2000 and up sorry paint today is extremely durable and does not just crack off, now if it flakes off or comes off well your hood was poorly preped and the tech should retire from fixing cars, but thats the only case

thank you paypal payment to
bdyman2001@gmail.com

clear and paint cracked right down to the primer. primer did not crack. I wish I still had the thing to show you....it was a few years ago.

i forgot to mention the fact that if material is over 3 militers thick then yes you will have "crows feet", and if its preped poorly yes it will flake off, but material does not flake off from heat and or cold

3mm is pretty thick...lol could explain it. Perhaps the timing of it was a coincidence? Was painted in June, cracked in December.

mililiters, and yes above the 3mm film build gets to thick product over product over product, that is the only reason paiint would crack

obviuolst u dont see any body kits after a real winter. 4+ months below 32 and a month of -20 to -40.

winters in northern NY distory cars with aftermarket body kits.

dude we get that cold here, the whole body kit thing really isnt to big here, its more muscle cars and air ride stuff, but i have done my share of kits, and is someone is stupid enough to drive a car in a winter with a body kit on then they deserve a kick to the rooster sucker for being a dumbass