Ld9 Engine Rebuild
 

Okay well I decided to rebuild my LD9. I jacked up the HO and noticed the water pump is leaking through its weep hole:eek: . So I started to get to it then decided I might aswell rebuild this HO. Well I will be needing all the help I can get. My cousin is lending me a cherry picker from his work and I plan to buy an engine stand at autozone. So far I gotton is I removed the passenger side engine mount and having a lil trouble getting the dam exhaust pipe off the exhaust manifold. I removed the intake manifold right now just to get something done till I get the pulley puller to remove the crank pulley. Or should I just wait till I get the LD9 out of the engine bay and on a stand? How many engine mounts are there I see two, and should I pull it out with the tranny? again i need all the help i can get, on with the pics.
this is what i have done so far. Is it normal to have oil around the intake ports? Any experts in rebuilding the HO please help? thankz:yahoo:

What are you trying to get out of your motor in the end? Are you looking for a general rebuild, boost, nitrous, or a N/A application? Anyway you go you will be able to find good info here, http://www.j-body.org/, and http://www.quad4forums.com/.

to take out 2.4L motor and tranny in one piece...

-wiring harness, fuel rail, power steering pump... remove all from engine, and move it ALL to the right side of the engine bay. EVEN THE SENSORS THAT GO TO THE FANS, BRAKES EVERYTHING. GET ALL WIRING THAT MAY GET CAUGHT WHEN PULLING MOTOR ALL THE WAY TO THE RIGHT SIDE OF ENGINE BAY.

-jack up front end, remove wheels

-remove your axles

-remove exhaust downpipe

-remove intake manifold

-leave crank pulley on, you can do it when motor is out of car

-remove engine mounts front and rear complete out of car..

-unbolt the upper engine mount and lower engine mount

-remember to drain all coolant, oil, tranny fluid to ease removal

-remove all coolant lines going to and from the engine (clean up mess)

-remove ignition wiring clustereff put with rest of wiring...

-remove shifter linkage and throttle cable move out of way.

-remember ALL and anything that is electrical and plugs into the tranny or engine must be removed or you'll tear your wiring harness up when pulling motor.

-remember all coolant lines that go to firewall, radiator, or coolant tank must be detached from motor

-shift linkage and throttle cable remember REMOVE THEM!

-it helps when pulling the motor to have the radiator removed from car as it gives you more wiggle room.

-you need a second person to help when you're pulling with cherry picker at least.

that's a general idea of what you need to do. in pulling the motor

^ LOL! Thats better than a Hanes manual!

By the way when you say HO are you refering to the AlerHO or a High Output motor? That could be confusing to some.

Im glad some one said to get the harness all the way to the right... seems obvious.. but if its your first time... yeah.. not an easy task at hand. He is rigth in saying to have a second person with the cherry picker..
when i pulled mine... it got caught up some on the master cylander... so having the second person to pull the whole motor to the left and front helped alot!! i had my motor pulled out in about a day and half ... we didnt work on it the full time but came out fast. the hardest part is getting the exhaust unmounted... i left the header and unbolted the flange... seemed easiest way to do it.

I have to remove the axles? I plan to run boosted but not yet. I will be installing the pacesetter headers with a magnaflow hi flow cat and a megan mgt muff, pluss I want to overbore the heads and add some overbore vavle relief pistons and eagle rods, modify the block for the 2.3 oil pump (maybe if I can do it or have a machine shop do it and how much their charge) HO intake manifold with the 56mm tbody, and not sure what cams to run i want a big lift but dont want to have to modify the HO cams to fit along with messing with the cam housing and the cps any ideas on where is a best buy to get good lift cams that are bolt and play. Port n polish the head and maybe get ss vavles, and maybe just maybe put on a 5-speed getrag also depending on available funds. I'll just forget the headers if I find a turbo manifold and turbo with charge pipes for sell. But Im just starting so please help. Any visual pics of where all the mounts are and how to get to them?

Fug it, I'm going to go take pictures of under my hood right now and i'll show you, okay maybe monday.

hell yeah, I appreciate it spy, cause i cant wait to get the beast done so I can beat all the honda buddys at my work. Take pics of everything that you can if possible step by step (well I guess thats a bit too much but any help will work)

I'll do step by step if you have an engine stand and a cherry picker shipped to my house along w/ a 20 gallon air compressor.

what happened to the pics spy?

I don't have keys to the shop, so essentially i couldn't get in on saturday because Trev jumped out of the shop early, and Sunday is drinking day.

You'll have to wait patiently until monday which can be used buying yourself a Haynes and Chilton manual and scouring the internet for a GM shop manual for your model year.

I got a haynes manual but its does not specify how the engine removal chapter how many mounts and how to take off the mounts. I have an automatic by the way. well its monday got some pics on the how to? I really need help on this and I want to do it, if I dont get help im probaly just going to do the top end head on up. Please help, thankz;)

bump>>>

the mounts are located at the front slightly to the right, at the back by the exahaust and if you look by the coolant resoivoir tank you'll see a mount and also if you look past the drivers side wheel past the fender liner there is another mount.

EASY!

If you fly me out to TX I'll have your motor out QUICK! If I'm well compensated. heh.

Do you have air tools?

I can get air tools and a compressor

Okay today I disconnected alot of sensors so now I can so the whole block down with alot of room. I just need to know what bolts to remove from the engine to the tranny? Is it the first or the second pic?

remove the starter and let me ask you seriously.

you don't know where your engine stops and your transmission starts?

yeah I already removed the starter

Do I remove the red or blue bolts? Im confused cause it the engine then the flex plate housing (the book calls it the bellhousing cover then the tranny i think. So please help thankz

The way it looks the red will remove the whole tranny and leave you with just the engine.

I only found 2 bolts on the flywheel is this correct? I turned the crank again just to make sure but just asking to clarify. thankz

Never played w/ an automatic tranny. couldnt' tell you, except go by what the manual says. Which for the record my manual is back at the shop.

Any bolt that connects the block (black part) to the tranny (silver/grey) you need to remove, and they are located all the way around....

That lil photo of the removed starter showing your flexplate/flywheel obviously shows you the where the transmissions bellhousing meets the engine (darker coloured metal. use that as a centerline and find all the bolts holding both halfs together and pop them out.

COME ON MAN! 1+1=2

okay I have already done that now do I pry the engine to the side away from the tranny? And how do I pry the dam thing? thankz

my dad and i just used a cherry picker and lifted mine pretty much straight up while 1 of us pushed on it to make sure it just missed the tranny, it actually came out really quick and easily. bout a minute to lift it out. o and take the hood off obviously it makes the process a lot easier.

how did you seperate it from the tranny?

if you took all the bolts out by turning the flywheel and making sure they are all out, you might have to pry, bump, pull, or whatever to get the engine to separate from the tranny. sometimes it sticks on the pins. Mine came right out no problem from unhooking the first plug to on an engine stand in about 1 hour. Thats all I can really tell you, sorry if I didn't really answer your question.

yeah that helps at least your not a smart ass about it like other people on here. how many bolts did you have on the flywheel? And what first plug are you refering to?

What can I do to the auto tranny so it can withstand the heavy mods I plan to do to the engine? I heard its only good up to 250hp, what if I plan to go beyond that? thanzk

lol actually first plug i was talking about just starting to take the enigne out when you first take things apart, so just disregard that. but i can't really remember how many bolts there were on the flywheel, thinking maybe 4 but i'm not sure.

YOU NEED THIS! JUST BUY IT! THAT WILL HELP YOU MORE THAN YOU CAN EVER ASK FROM ANYBODY ON ANY FORUM, MESSAGE BOARD, PHONE CALL, DEALERSHIP, ANY AND EVERYWHERE. DON'T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT IT.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1999-...QQcmdZViewItem

WOW that is real nice. I was looking for somewhere to get some scamatics or blue prints of the engine. thankz that helps a lot.

Okay well until I get that manual am I suppose to yank it to the pass. side to release it from the tranny?

I DID IT AND ALL BY MYSELF!!!!

i finally got the engine free from the tranny. Now remember I am new to this so im learning as I go. I removed all the bolts neccesary and still it wouldn't budge. So I reread the appropriate chapters on the haynes manual and read all the post back on this thread so I trouble shooted to observe all the mounts and I found the issue. There is a brace that connects the axel to the engine on the passenger side on the bottom. I removed the 2 bolts that connect the brace to the engine yet missed one hidden away in the darknees :) I realized I could not get to it so I removed the bolts to the axel and as soon as I removed the two BOOM the engine fell free!!!! I felt so HAPPY I effn yelled a bunch of shit and all the neighbors were just looking freaking out. YET THERES A CATCH, before I realized the brace was still holding the engine I tried to jack up the engine hoping it would free itself then I heard a POP or a SNAP then trans fluid started to leadk:eek: I droped it back down and it stop so should I be worried? Oh well I funkn did it and with no ones help, oh yeah ya'll on here thankz, now Im going to pick up the hoist tomorrow and start step two in LD9 ENGINE REBUILD.......

it's a good deal for that set of manuals. They easily can go upwards of $120.. I paid $100 brand new on ebay a while back for a set for the 2001 model year.

yea about that... its probably not good. but if its a just a crack in the case on the low pressure side, JB weld it and you will be fine. My trans case got cracked and started leaking inside a bolt hole, but it was on the low pressure side so I stuffed some silicone in the hole before I put the bolt in and its been good for over a year already.

I got the engine out yesterday with the help of my cousin. Yet there is one down side to it here are the pics, the last one is of the bottom bolt that bented and crack the housing of the torque converter.

Does fluid flow through the cracked area and if not should I just use some jbweld? thankz

quick favor that part which is all bent out of shape... clean it completely off, and draw an arrow where there is supposedly a crack, and take a picture on the other side where that bolt is at if possible.

yeah sure i'll do that but tommorrow cause me and my girl just came back from red lobster and now its time to well you know....

who gets on aleromod in the middle of a date night?.....fag