I'm stumped.
 

I've been trying for the past hour and a half to try and figure out how I'm gonna connect my power wire to the positive terminal. The ring connectors I have are trash, and won't clamp down onto the wire at all. I don't wanna stick the wire into the terminal.

I'm completely lost, and have no idea what to do.

Buy new connectors.

is this the right kind?
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a...-PLATED/1.html

Finally got them to work. But now, can't find a good spot to mount the fuse, I don't got much room between the airbox and the battery, so I may just strap them down.

you get more (steady direct) power w.o a fuse. i forget the details but it slows down the draw of power from the battery a bit

I got the power back, but I can't get the headunits to go back in, the RCA cables are hitting a metal thing at the back. Help!

i took a pair of heavy duty plyers and ripped the plastic trim out from the back inside of the headunit area brute force style so the 6 rcas would fit.

You have to cut the back with our cars when adding an after market headunit.

This is the adapter you could have gotten if using a side post battery



Then you could have gotten these terminals and soldered the wire to it.

Then a 100amp inline fuse like so

Did you just suggest not using a inline fuse on the power wire???

I call BS on this. A fuse will NEVER interfere with the proper flow of electricity until it fails for a reason. There is virtually NO resistance nor capacitance in a fuse to delay the power in any way.

EVERY power feed should have an appropriately sized fuse as close as possible to the power source.

FYI - My degree is in Electrical Engineering/Computer Sciences

And to add this this true statement, should there be a powerspike or what ever or a short at the battery. The inline protects your amp or subs from being damaged and speakers / deck aswell.


also i give thumbs up, im a computer degree also and i plan on a masters, plus possibly a BA in Crim Justice

I got everything sorted out and hooked up.

I got the connectors to fit on the wire, and the battery terminal, I just drilled the hole a little bigger.

For the RCA's I just bent them down a bit so it would fit.

Now I need to find the best setting on my amp / head unit.

That works well, but I have a double-stacked battery terminal with a longer bolt.

Makes for a cleaner looking install in my opinion.

Why are you bending your RCA's?

And as for amplifier settings:

LPF: 80-100Hz
Bass Boost: Minimal-None in most cases.
Gain: -Download a 50Hz test tone.
-Use the formula ---> V=sqrt(watts*ohms)
- Attach dmm to + and - terminals on amplifier. (after unhooking subwoofer.)
-Play 50Hz tone at 75% volume. Turn gain up until you reach the voltage you acquired by using the formula above.
-Shut everything off and reconnect your subwoofer.
- :beerchug:
You can download the 50Hz tone here:
http://ampguts.com/cmps_index.php?pa...udio_downloads

Do what you feel is necessary at your head unit and enjoy. :)

I didn't bend the actual metal part, but the plastic at at the cable.

I'll probably not adjust my amp like that as I don't have a dmm. I'll adjust it by ear as best I can.

If I were to use a dmm, what watts and ohms would I use? The subs or amps rms or peak? For ohms, will it be whatever I will have the speakers wired as?

Say I had 2 300 peak, 150 rms 4 ohm subs wired in to 2 ohms, and the amp is 150 rms and 300 peak at 2 ohms.

What would I use?

That.... probably will not end well. And by probably.. I mean...

.......................__ ............
......<ROFL ROFL ROFL ROFL>.
........................| |...........
................... __\||/____......
.\\...............|'-|--| .\\....\.....
..\ \_...........|--|---|..\\ ....\....
../ L \____,/-------\___\___\
.|LOL|-------------O----- ----,\..
..\ L /______,---''-----------, /...
../ /.............\_________ ,/....
.//.............____//___ __\\__/.



I really hope I'm reading that wrong.

I am taking it as he is not 100% sure on what he is doing even though its a learning experience.

BUT drilling into a battery? i hope too that was read wrong. Cuz i mean as it was said in an earlier post, you can get longer terminal bolts, OR an even better idea is to get larger ring connectors to fit over stock terminal

No, I drilled the hole on the connector bigger. Should have worded that a little better before. I'm not that dumb lol.

Turns out that I have a multimeter. But I don't know what to set it to. It's a micronta from radioshack, it's pretty old.

indeed sir. the fuse adds an insanely small amount of resistance to the power. in the SPL world it adds like .5 to .2 db without a fuse. and every db counts. of course if youre not into that kinda shit then fuse it. also a lot of amps have built in fuses just for that reason. double fused is overkill imo

depends on what you want to test... :huh:?

the volts output like cash dollar had said.

one knob has different ohms values, and the other has DCv, ACv, and other power values. I know the one has to be set to ACv, but dont know what to put the ohms set to.

um. Your setting the ACv to the highest value closest to the value you'll be testing.

so if your looking for an output of 40ACv, then you set it for 50. if you want 56, you set it to 100...etc

your not checking ohms. ohms is resistance. not used here.

Ya my dad explained that to me when he got home,

pics of setup?

If your amplifier is rated at 1000watts @ 2-ohms rms, then you use those values as long as that is what your subwoofers are wired to.

Basically, use the final ohm load on your speakers when they are wired into the ampilifier, then tune to the amplifiers rated rms at that given load.

DO NOT try to squeeze more "power" out of the amplifier than what it is rated at. This will result in a clipped signal that WILL damage your subwoofer.

The inline fuse protects the battery and cabling from you know.. starting a fire and stuff if it shorts out to the body, the amp fuse doesn't.

Sounds like a terrible idea. If I stuck 10G into an SPL machine I WOULDNT want it burning to the ground for .2 db.

its really all personal preference. i dont use a fuse on my 4g and its been in there for quite some time. the only way it would catch fire is if the line gets cut or it gets disconnected or some random odd. i understand its common. the fuse should be at the amp rating or slightly above what your amp is rated at. (ie: you amp pulls 200amps u need a 200-220). even tho its unlikely if u get a surge of 240amps through the line the fuse will blow but the amp would still be fine with the jump. i have my 8g line fused. it only blew out when i was a dumbass and didnt know how to properly hook wires up to the battery

and hey if u dropped 10g on an SPL setup thats the difference between 159.8 and 160 :ninja:

louder = supreme!

I do believe the start of the post doesn't begin with him wanting 160db's for his first system lol. But honestly MOST daily drivers would want a fuse at the batt. for protection in case them random happenings occur, as they always do to the most unsuspecting ( *Ehem* (Matt) ) :lol:

The only people that I have seen go with out fuses are comp car with lots of runs of wire.
http://www.termpro.com/asp/competito...01 0&Method=2

wwwaaiiittt.....12 Power wires into 1 Batt.?? how the fk....Why the Fk....bbbboooommmm....


EDIT: The side say's Bat Cap? Isn't a regular cap used to decrease chances of voltage drops to protect the setup? And if that's a cap....It looks like it would be a 500 Farad Cap LOL

i agree. most people should fuse their shit. never said everyone should do this. i choose not to. ill take my chances :rolleyes2:

What are you running matt?

well i was supposed to install this kove audio armageddon 18" this weekend but im still waiting on the box specs. turns out maximum room i can fit for it is 9 cubic feet and it wants about a 7. itll be tuned to 28hz. it will be on my 1000.1 for now until i can get something beefier. its got a 4 inch coil and it would do real well on 3000rms

Man its ur choice but why the hell not protect that 18"??? Ne-ways U say a 1K amp will smack it around, do you mean 1K RMS or max watts? if so then my 1100W Mono BOSS amp should be smacking a solid ( @2 ohm 550rms?) So i could push a 15-18 with no problems considering its power is near 550rms? What is the total W/RMS on that Armageddon?

the amp is an MB Quart 1000.1 discus. puts out 1000rms. the 3" coil version takes about 2500 to 3000rms but the 4" (which is the one i have) takes up to 4000. i dont think ill be putting it on that much power tho. 110amp alternator ftl

Ill try and snap a few tomorrow. It's nothing really special. I made sure that all the wires ran to the back very clean, but from there, I don't really know where to put them. I don't know where to mount my fuse either. It's kinda wedged between the side of the engine bay and the windshield washer fluid reservoir.

What are your subs rated @ Hectic? and your setup doesn't have to be special, just has to appeal to you. and as for the fuse, I don't have mine mounted it actually sits between the top of my air box and MAF, but it doesn't touch the MAF at all, don't really know if it would matter but yeah. I think as long as it wont get wet where you put it then you should be fine.

@Matt - Yeah I'm not sure if the alt i have is stock or not, I cleaned it so i probably wont finger it out quickly. I just put 2 RF Punch HE2 12"s in my car that I'm supposed to install for a guy who hasn't had the time to bring his car over, and these bastards are way louder than the cobalt's, buuut my amp clipped a few times from them and now it seems like it took a shot at the alt because my lights are dimmer now inside & out.