Problem! could use help asap.
 

okay so my phone rings, its my girlfriend. " soo... your going to be mad at me.. i broke the car"... what do you mean? "well i went to move it and the clutch pedal was all the way to the floor.. i was like wtf?" ..-_-... "theres no fluid or anything on the ground but the fluid reservoir is empty"/.... okay babe..

so wtf. my four door now is sitting in a parking lot waiting to be towed home so i can fix what ever the issue is. i would assume a leak some where seeing as there is no fluid. problem is the guy put a whole new hydraulic everything in so it shouldnt be leaking out already.and what if local parts stores don't sell the stuff i need to fix it?

I could just be typing away right now and have no effing idea what im saying because i am overly tired and out of it. so if none of this makes sense just ignore it.

for anyone that getws it.. explain where i should start. ill read it in the morning and hopefully have the car moving again by sunday.

Add more fluid. Then look for a leak.

did not find one. makes a squishy sound by the bell housing when pedal is pressed. i have the car ripped apart right now bout to put a new slave cylinder in.

bump. what size is the axle nut? like socket size? 36mm? i need to go buy one so it would be nice to know asap.

'99 LA1 has NUT,FRT WHL DRV SHF(M24X2.0X19.6)(HEX W/WASHER,PREVAILING TORQUE)
#13


If the slave cylinder is leaking you probably won't see it, but your clutch and bellhousing will be swimming in brakefluid.
Or if the slave cylinder is outside, see if the refilling it, and using the clutch, works at the slave, if not then your prob lays somewhere "upstream"

wow thats awesome man! thanks, however that does not tell me which size socket i need to remove the nut. lol i may use that information anyway to replace the nut because the one on there is rusty and old.

35mm for my 3400, i dunno if it's different on your car

shouldnt it be the same for both ecotec and 3400? my 3400 is automatic, my ecotec is manual, and thats the one im working on.

1. It kinda does, as this is all standardized
2. GM used 2 kinds of nuts - the caged ones and the "solid" ones, that use a lower torque spec and help to preserve the wheel bearing.
3. you could quick check it at gmpartsgiant com.to see if the specs are the same
4. there you'll also get the diagrams for your clutch system, which helps diagnosing it very much.

had this problem with my alero.

check the slave cylinder for leaks. before i tore everything apart i would of filled it up and had someone push the clutch up and down. maybe when they replacead they didnt bleed the clutch properly, and now its bled the level went do. it basically goes master cylinder to slave cylinder. now im not sure, but maybe the fluid went from the master cylinder went into the brake resevior. not sure if theres a passage of some sort. but who knows. could be the rod connected to the peddle too

but just fill it, bleed it all properly. and then drive it for a few days checking it

well, my clutch master cyl has no connection to the brake res.
it is the slave cylinder, and im basically effed because i do not have the patience or the proper tools to do this job. ive been attempting it for 15 hours total and ive only gotten the transmission about 4 inches away from the block. everyone said "oh thats easy to do" yea bullshit, they never said you had to basically either rip the entire engine/trans out, or drop the cross member and the entire front suspension. i dont have time for this crap. but i guess its all my fault for diving into something i wasnt completely familiar with or ready to actually do. having everything on my mind from packing so we can move, to getting the car inspected by the end of the month and getting it back on the road just totally effed me. -_-

ya, if you drop the subframe and pull axles, its actually not to bad after that. but its much easier if you have a shop and air tools. we R&R my tranny and clutch in about 8 hours at my shop with 2 guys. we could of went faster