UPS love'n
 

Gotta love delivery day. :yahoo::yahoo:

got me new project.... get'n those beasts in my doors.


anyone got a good idea for how to get a 1" tweeter into our triangle pods?? :p (i'm thinking take the mesh out and possibly dremel the hole a little bigger if need be)


specs



FEATURES

• Brushed Stainless Steel Finish Stamped Steel Baskets
• Woven Glass Fiber/Spruce Pulp Laminate Cones
• Inverted Polypropylene Dust Caps
• NBR Rubber Surrounds
• Black Progressive Conex Spiders
• 1” Copper Voice Coil on Aluminum Former with Reinforced Neck Joint
• Nickel Plated Binding Posts
• Rubber Motor Cover with Logos
• Vented Pole Pieces
• 4 Ohm Impedance
• 1” Teflon/Silk Dome with Resin Coating Tweeters
• Neodymium Tweeters Magnets
• Ferrofluid Cooling
• Multi-Function Mounting Set
• Passive Crossover with 12dB Low-Pass and Presence Switch for Midbass, 18dB
• High-Pass with 3-Way Sensitivity Switch for Tweeter, Tweeter Protection Circuit
• Grills and Mounting Hardware Included

Wiring Kits

I put 1" tweets in just cut off the clips for the factoy tweets and used a little hot glue. and put them behind the factory mesh. I might cut the hole bigger tho and maybe do a little glassin to them in the future

Get rid of that ugly mesh... Besides the aiming of the tweeter is horrible!

http://caraudiocentral.net/ryan/imag...inbow-sail.jpg

Thats before I finalized it. Grind them open, find the tweeter cup that works the best. Be careful when grinding, take out the least amount of material possible.

Get them aimed correctly. Epoxy in place.

Then take bondo and fill the crack, put a nice fillet in. Sand smooth. Paint flat black or Dollar General Grey Primer (almost exact color match).

Mine are aimed almost right at each other and on a slight downward angle. I get excellent off-axis response and its awesome. Most look at it and dont understand...

its kinda hard to see, but the tweets have like a 1/4" lip around the edge of them (whats holding them in place in the box) then taper down.

so if i mounted them like yours, i'd be a big silver edge on the outside of the "sail" which, i think would look a little goofy given that its a black pod....


unless i grind that edge off, which i'd really like to NOT do.


maybe grind the inside of the "sail" so it fits w/ that edge?

Just a size comparison... i think some fabrication is in my future...


good thing i saved that link to the fiberglassing forum. :p

Paint the outer edge to match the middle mesh of the tweeter or the pod. I would set it on the pod and mark around it to get what you need to dremel out. I don't see it being to much of a problem cherry you just have to come up with a way to to secure it in there. I would cut it out slightly smaller then the tweeter and press it firmly in there. I think that would be plenty to keep it in there, and I seriously doubt that we have that much going on around that pod to cause it to fall out. You have sparked my interest thought in seeing how this turns out. What size are the speakers 5.25 or 6.5's?

How much was that speaker system? If you don't mind me asking.

...Almost forgot....Do you have a seperate amp for the front speakers and what are your ideas of mounting..or better yet where to mount it. I was think of in the rear, but the thought of running all that wire made me contiplate the issue a little more.

Thats no bigger than the CAL 25 Tweeter in my pictures ;)

Dremel it out and epoxy in place.

Is there any other tweeters mounts or is that the only one? It has a flange around the outside which will greatly limit your install possibilities and quite honestly make it look like dung.

i paid $137 for the whole thing shipped. I have a 400W 4 channel amp i'm gonna use. one channel for each door, and the other two will be my rears... just cuz. I also just got some adapters from ebay, for the 4x6-6.5" adaption. (so, yes, they are 6.5"s) depth might be an issue, so i might have to make a small wood standoff so the magnet doesn't hit the window.... but it shouldn't be too much of a hassel...

Good to know its not bigger. and that isn't the mount, thats just the casing around it. the mount is still in the box, and appears to fit up around the base, to that outer lip. its defintely poor design, but i don't think these are meant for the install i'm using them for. :lol:

Hmm, interesting. Im guessing thats still the flush mount. Simply due to the fact you cant easily get to the solder connection.

Just take a look at my picture I posted. Dremel tool with sanding drum and lots of patience.

I'm really not feeling the glueing thing everbody seems to do. What if you want to do something else or change the tweet or have to replace it. Epoxy and glue just seems to permanent to me..at least enough to cause a major problem if you have to take one out for something. That lip could be a good thing..so you don't have to get it exactly clean if you don't want. Cant wait to see more pics and solutions to some of the issues that may arise.

Epoxy if done right will provide good hold but it will chip off if need be.

Where are the updates Cherry? Have you started? Is it done? Did you lose a nut, arm leg, lol something?

haven't started. school/work are getting in the way, not to mention its really cold. (anything under 40 and my hands will go numb w/in minutes) so this project will be about a month away.... :( sorry.

i'll DEFINITELY post results though. (and i just got my adapters in, so i can mount the 6.5s in the 4x6 hole)

I understand just checking and when you get a chance I would love to see what those adaptors look like.

http://cgi.ebay.com/4x6-to-6-5-6-Spe...31 0033668466

exact ones i got.



i was expecting plastic.. but they are like pseudo plastic stuff. (they say pvc) it looks like its really easy to work with, but i will have to take a dremel to it. the baskets on these beasts are a little bigger on the inside then the adapter has room for.

but they look like they will stand out far enough so i won't have magnet vs window issues.

the biggest part of the project, is figuring out how/where to mount my amps. i'm not sure if i want to mount them backwards on an angle out from the sub box i have (so they are hidden, and the trunk looks just small and empty) or if i want to make a small rack above my subs to hold them...

i'm pretty sure i have everything i need to finish the job at this point, except for wood, but that'll be this weekend. then its just a matter of time. maybe my dad will help and i'll have it done on this weekend....

What about what Ryan did? He has a wall that fills the opening of the trunk and has his amps mounted to it. From the back I'm pretty sure it looks like nothing is back there, and thats what I'm looking to do. All and all I'll have 3amps and 1cross over squeezed back there. The problem is I still use my trunk and I know I'll need that spare in the future so I don't want to have to go throught the bull crap of taking out some elaborate box.

i would... but i'm just not a fan of having an amp wall... i'll have to get some cheap mdf, and take a look... see which i like better.