Advice on new engine
 

Well, the time has come. The engine is only slowly getting worse and worse as the miles go on. It now knocks when its warm and when its cold it sounds like a diesel. Long story short I am going to go ahead and get the ball rolling on a new engine. Few questions, for the skimmers, I bolded the important questions.

1. Where should I buy a engine from? I plan on getting a long block (block and heads) and using the accessories and manifolds off of my current engine. Is the best route to go to get a used motor?

2. I will be taking it to a machine shop and having them rebuild the bottom end with Clevette 77 bearings. While they have it, and if the shop will do it, I will have them do the 2.3 oil pump swap. What are other basic things that I should have the machine shop to do to make sure the block and heads are in good condition?

3. Are there any other modifications to the block and/or head that should be done while they have it?

4. Would it be worth it to get aftermarket, forged rods and pistions while its being rebuilt too?

5. IF I do go with forged rods and pistons, would I see any benefit to bumping the compression up to 10:1? Down the road I would like to slap the GM Supercharger and a good tune. I also have a set of secret cams that will go in the new engine as well.

I know NONE of this will be cheap. I would not be surprised if I spend $2k on it before its all done. Thanks in advance, Im sure I'll have more questions too :p

6. Also, what head gasket should I go with? I want to never have to crack this engine open ever again pretty much.

I was just gonna post something pretty similar but about a 3.4 swap mines just getting worse now and im thinking of I4 in the alero or even getting a 3.4 block clean it up and all and put 3.5 lower and upper ported intakes ect.

and how i see it if your going to get new bearings why not get some now rods and pistons, but someone might tell you something else :P But good luck with your build!

Well, I had figured that part was kinda obvious, but just wanted to make sure. Im not sure if I want to drop $1k on new rods and pistons. I'll eventually convince my self tho... :awesome:

im still not sure if i want to get the 3.5 performance swap on the 3.4 from WOTTech for over 2k with shipping and extra parts :p

:lol: I paid $600 for a 3500 with 25k on it.

.... You're lucky.. i wanna look in yards for 3500 parts that i can send in so i dont have to pay any core charge... but i wish i could get one for myself for 600...

Anybody else have any suggestions? I found a shop that would do it for me. It would be around $1600 for the labor, does that sound right?

Well, im getting closer to figuring it all out...

I plan on getting a used motor of some sort. Most likely I will end up going to pick n pull and grab one myself. Because around here, most places that pull it for you want $750 plus a core... And most do not come with a warranty. The ones that do come with a 30 day warranty are around $800 or more.

I will take the used motor to a machine shop and have it rebuilt before I throw it in. For sure. I am already dead set on doing the 2.3 oil pump swap. The shop I talked to is willing to do it, and for sure, I will be using Clevette 77 main and rod bearings.I will also get some eagle rods.

I am just confused on the pistons, I know I really want to go with forged. Right now Im thinking that I will custom order some weisco 10:1 pistons. I only really plan on going with the GM Supercharger (for simplicity) and a smaller pulley for about 7-8PSI.

How does all of this sound so far? Am I on the right track?

Ive also got a set of secret cams I will throw in it during the rebuild.

Sounds like a ton of money

I was going to say that of money is no object, get a Jasper rebuilt engine. I have one in my Escort that was put in February 2002 and it's still going strong.

I can go for jaspers to because that is what my truck has with 310,000 on the motor, however i think he is going for a custom build

Don't take my word on compression wise, but if you're going to go SC I would stick with the 10.1:1 pistons you were planing on, however WAIT to buy them becuase buying a used engine for the build up is a good idea, you don't know if the motor will have to be bored out or not.

You're plan sounds pretty good to me, however I'm thinking with forged pistions and Eagle rods, you can go a little bit higher than 8 lbs of boost.

I currently have a 3400 block with the rotaing assembly in it, in my basement. I plan on throwing in a bigger cam and the heads I bought from Matt Fuller a few years ago, (they are already on the car with LS1 yellow springs and 3500 valves and maybe 9.7:1 CR right now. Fuller did suggest a .060 MLS gasket (i think) and my CR should be 9.996:1 and that will max out my cam. He has the next cam up from what I bought and his car is very borderline streetable, according to him. I'm going to be using stock pistons. No need to go forged in my case since I'm not planing on going boost :awesome:

Of course, I'm gathering parts right now, except for pistions, since IDK if that block will have to be punched out any. At 160,000 miles, I think it will have to be

Your right :/ It will prolly be around 3 grand now...


Sadly money is an object, and I dont plan on maxing out my credit on a Jasper rebuilt engine. So heres to hoping I pull a good junkyard engine :beerchug:


Yeah I think I will go with the 10:1 CR. And since Im getting a JY engine, it should be bored out right? How much? Ive heard 0.020 is about the norm?

Any quad 4 owners have anything to chime in? (thats you [ion]C2 :coolio: )

IDK, I know more about the rebuilding process of mainly SBO. I do know a little bit about the process involved in a SBC, and very basic info on a SBF. These old engines are usually 30 and/or 60 over.

I've heard of LA1 motors (and related cousins in the 60* family) going 20, 40 or 60 over on rebuilds, then I find 10 over and 30 over pistons for sale right next to the 20's and 40's.

It's a shot in the dark, but I'm guessing 10 or 20 over is the number. You have a shop going to do the work, talk to them about it. They will know best ;)

The 2.3 oil pump swap you can do but not really necessary. It is a good mod to do but unless your looking to squeeze every ounce of power out of the 2.4. But if your plan is the s/c I would spend the money more on a very good polish and port job on the head. That would be better money spent.

Far as other machine work I would have crank cross drilled and even knife edged the throws. Go with the eagle rods and weisco pistons. Have at least the piston skirts coated.

Craigslist or junkyard if your having the motor going through you can get a bore and start fresh with plus size pistons.


I would have them also Magnaflux the block and head, soda blast, than iff you are getting new pistons have them deburred and the tops smoothed out, and the rest is obvious things you should have them do.


I'm not positive but I know with my honda I had to notch my block to give proper room for full rod expansion with heat, look into the clearance of the rods end cap with the main girdle and the rod shaft with the cylinder walls at half stroke. You don't want any contact at 6k....


Yes! After market rods and pistons are a great idea especially if your shooting for anything over factory HP.


Yes! High compression is always great for any kind of boost and if you are able to do it now it would make the S/C setup much more powerful than a lower compression setup that was identical other than compression.


I am a strong believe on Cometic headgaskets... literally bullet proof. Unless you are Chris and do Wot passes with a cold engine. :lol:

Well, the stock oil pump cavitates the oil above 5800 RPM Right? When I like to drive it hard, I usually keep it right at the redline. (which, yes, I know is probably why the bearings are gone in it now) Also, by removing the balance shafts, it allows the engine to spin a little more freely.

Now what do you mean have the crank "knife edged"?




I will probably go with a Cometic gasket and copper spray, because, I NEVER want to have to touch the internals again.

Thanks for the help everybody!

BUMP, with another question!

Are these guys good to order from???

http://www.importperformanceparts.ne...jnw_index.html

They have a pretty good deal on a Eagle and Wiseco rod combo... Im looking at the

Wiseco # K023M900 pistons and Eagle rods for about $750. The pistons are 10:1 CR so I think that will fit the bill nicely.

The only thing is they dont come with rings... Where would I find rings for them and about how much would they be? Or are rings something the machine shop would have to get based on specs of the block/and or pistons?

Knife edging the crank is litterally what it means, they cut material off of the counterweight portion of the crank to give the edges a sharp point. This cuts through the oil to keep it from building up in pockets and also reduces parisitic drag... Also removing material from the crank leads to less rotating mass meaning faster revs... But you lose them faster as well...


Minimal gains for the price you pay

Yeah so I probably wont do the knife edged crank. Ive added up all the parts in a list

2.4 Engine from Pick N Pull $230
ROD, Piston combo(http://www.importperformanceparts.ne...jnw_index.html) $830
Modified 2.4 Oil pan (http://www.miller-performance.com/products.html) $190
2.3L Pump: Advance auto $130
Crank Gear for the pump: Sealed Power - Oil Pump Drive Gear, Part # 223-747 (orilleys) $17
Oil Pick Assembly: 22539133 Advance $42
Windage Tray: 22536409 (GM Parts direct) $12
Bolt To Screen: 11516802 x2 (GM Parts direct) $3
Brace: 24570677 (GM Parts direct) $9
Locator Pins For Pump: 22531530 x2 (GM Parts direct) $3
Baffle Stud: 22542521 x2 (GM Parts direct) $1
Baffle Bolt: 22540299 x2
Nut For Brace: 22535081 x2
Bolt Flange Head: 11516061 x2
Oil Pump Bolts To Block: 14050422 x2

Total ~$1500

Anything Im missing? Suggestions?

And add Clevete 77 main and rod bearings to that list. I forgot them... lol