What is your scaner reporting as far as "delivered trans torque" right at the commanded shift point between 1 and 2 bud?

sex :cool:

There's a good reason for that. :lol: Air filter is under the plastic shield

It drops to 295 between shifts. But when there is a lot of wheelspin, the mph drops and the PCM downshifts it back from 2nd to 1st. At least I think that's what is happening. Doesn't do it with slicks at the track. Might as well post this here too (note: this is NOT a scan of the video, but of a faster rolling start):

Yeah, can't sell any kits, that would be prostitution :p

It drops to 295 between shifts. But when there is a lot of wheelspin, the mph drops and the PCM downshifts it back from 2nd to 1st. At least I think that's what is happening. Doesn't do it with slicks at the track. Might as well post this here too (note: this is NOT a scan of the video, but of a faster rolling start):

I think you are spot on. As far as the shift goes, in your pressure table.... from 250Tq to the top of your table add 5% to it and try it again. The trans is built now, take advantage of it and give the shift some snap. Set desired time to .1 if you havent already

2nd, get bigger injectors bud. What size are you running right now?

3rd, what * Thermostat you running?

I think fuel and cooling are ok, but I don't understand the way those tranny tables are set up, don't see how it could be tweeked further -- max base pressure can't be set higher than 96. Shift times are at 0.1

240-260 is still shifting at 70-80% there. Add 5 to the 240 and 260 rows. With wheel spin I bet you hit that area. Are you experiencing slip? If so, you can subrtact 5 from the force motor table from 132* to 240*, in rows 60-90%. Subtract another 5 in those locations if it still fells like its not grabing. You install a shift kit when you built it? If not, pretty sure one can be installed with a pan drop.
Over 80% in our fueling systems is static. The injector cannot open and close fast enough to feed it properly man. One step up is all you need, nothing crazy. Too big is a p.i.t.a to get any kind of idle out of.

Thanks, might as well tell me the maximum safe limit I can go on the Force Motor table, lol ...... No shift kit, but I used to use a switch that ungrounded one of the solenoids and defaulted it into full line presure, just for the track. I don't know how that affected the tables, but every shift was *WHAM*. I know it means 1-2 tenths in the 1/4 mile.

I don't mind having to reflash it for on and off the track, for right now.


It only goes over 80% for 1 second at the top of each gear, the rest of the run it averages 60-70%. But I sure don't want my plugs to be foulin' right now :p

I would not take more than 15-20 out of any area in the force table. Really, the only time we should really mess with that table is if you are dealing with slip. If you take 10 out, imo, and don't get the grab you want, I'd install a shift kit

You are using a WB to tune WOT? As long as the WB reads your fuel is good, then fook it bro, keep it as is for injectors!

Still haven't broke it
 

Swapped in the LS1 MAF and its calibration table, upgraded to larger filter tubing. First tests felt a little stronger on the street, could have sworn it ran smoother and shifted better, but time will tell.
According to the scans, the MAF reading of lb/min maximum increased as expected, but what was not expected is it ran a bit richer at WOT. IDC was up a couple per cent to 93, but the recorded MAF frequency was lower due to the different calibration.
If I get another chance at dry 60 degree temps, I'll take it to the track again. Intercooling progress is still behind schedule.

Is the engine P&P B?

alc inection
 

no


More hilarity, in the heat of the summer the Saab plastic coupler (SC outlet) "melted" after taking that vid, almost got stranded. heh

So now working on a new coupler/casting

and hooked this up, but under-engineered at least one component.... there's a 35psi pump and pressure switch under the MAF sensor somewhere...

the pressure switch failed, stuck closed "ON" after a WOT pass on the highway, which dumped in 50/50 alc/H2O at a rate of 8 ounces/minute.

But did we panic? Oh, no, this type of stuff is expected ;)



(simul-posted on 60DegV6)

I still think its beyond awesome you got that charger in there bro, God Dam I like your ride dude

Aww man, ya jinxed it , lol

Took it to da track last Sat. [without alcohol injection], and as I told a friend--

"....Well, the test n' tune did not go so well, there was a huge crowd
because of a drifting event they also had going on, so long waits in
line to run. But the car ran much slower than it should have. I did all
the things I needed to to get it prepped, but it no-go-fast, lol....

So now I'm trying to analyze the scans, but the most obvious ongoing
problem has been severe misfires on cylinder #1. And it ran worse since
I had an alcohol injection malfunction during a road test last month.
It looks like a new engine is the best way to go. Been putting that off
for a long time. At least I got to test it and find out there was a big
problem, and still make it back home :)....."

ran 2 14.5's and barely broke 90 mph, I'm officially arrived at the wtf point.

Got one(some) major gremlin(s) going on in here :(

Did you log your 1/4 B? If you did post your tune and run for me. If you didn't log I'd still like to see the tune that you ran at the track...
First suggestion, before even seeing the tune, put a fuel pressure gauge on it and tape it to your windscreen. Focus your camera on the gauge and take it out and hammer it. I would like to see what your fuel pressure is doing before anything else if at all possible bro

here's a link to one of the 1/4 runs--

E.T about 14.5, mph around 90 (23 inch tires)
(LS1 MAF w/ " '97 Corvette Calib, stock Alero sensor element" :

http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showth...899#post174899

I tested the fuel pressure at key-on, engine off, before going to track, it was about 55 psi. I have not checked at WOT in a long time. However, the symptoms are getting worse every time I drive it at WOT, I gotta be careful here, lol

One symptom over the last months has been running higher and higher narrowband O2 voltages, now it's getting to the point of maxing out the readings.

I had also replaced the O2 sensor with a GM version, changed the offsets back to stock. Put the stock MAF back in, same result on street.

So we have lost of measured boost, big loss of power, and yet the fuel consumption is way higher than normal, but no misfires at WOT.

Has a lot of misfires at low RPM, mostly on cylinder #1, where I suspect a bent valve. It's had that going on for over two years, but it's much worse now......

This is acting like the air charge is somehow disappearing before it gets to the fuel injectors, or something in the system is absorbing the power or dragging it down. Weird as hell...

Your rich. The MAF table, remove 5% from the entire cruise mode. Have you VE tuned it B? Take 3% from your entire VE table in cruise regions as well for now.
Have you tested your coils with an ohms tester? Should read between 5-7Kohms. Look to see if one is out of whack bro

**Shit B, while your there test the wires too... 600ohms/ft is what you want, so measure their length, top of boot to where it enters elbow at coil and figure out your ohms/ft. Don't want a stupid wire have you chasing your tail

You will probably have a good laugh at me, but what is that red under your coils? You got some kind of A/M ICM going on there? What kind of coils you running?

With what's reported through the NB I would look to make sure calibration of the WB is correct first. Did you check to make sure your WB reads the same as HP Tuners as well?

I would also get rid of the add vs RPM table and use the MAF only to fuel it. Change the entire PE table to 12.5 if that's what you are aiming for

I got stock coils but an MSD ignition. The red parts are adapters to patch the DIS-4 into the system, and it's mounted in front of the center console.

I've never had a fueling problem with this basic tune before, though I agree it would not hurt to fine tune the MAF and VE tables. In normal driving, you wouldn't think there is any big problem, just at WOT.

But there are no misfires happening at WOT either, so I don't see where it could be the ignition. The last time I lost power and boost like this, it was the LIM gasket, but the other symptoms were different then.

Something mechanically wrong with the engine is what I want to believe, since that would be better than a bad tranny or SC, lol.

Right now, a small power steering leak turned into a bigger one and drained the fluid out. So now I have to fix that first, sheesh

Tell me about this Royal Purple synthetic power steering fluid..... I want to put that in there......because Overkill! haha :awesome:

yay or nay? Will it hurt to have it mix with the fluid already in there?