Wheel Bearing Change With Pics.
 

*FIXED
Ok So first off a list of things you will need.

1. 35mm Socket
2. 1/2 inch breaker bar
3. 1/2 inch ratchet
4. 1/2 inch extension
5. 13mm Socket
6. 19mm socket
7. Pry bar or equivelant
8. Rubber Mallet
9. 1/2 inch torque wrench
10. Jack and jack stand
11. A press of some sort to compress the calipher piston
12. Bandaids, Beer(was at work so couldn't drink), and Patience

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Now before jacking up the car, pry the center cap off of the rim, and loosen the lug nuts (just loosen for now), using your 1/2 inch breaker bar and 19mm socket. I will look like so.

Attachment 8589

Remove the hub bolt using the 1/2 inch breaker bar and 35mm socket(it's on tight). Once that is done, jack up your car making sure it is under a proper jack point. Once the vehicle is at an adequate height place your jack stand (again at a proper point under the car) and remove the jack. Remove the lugnuts and the tire, and this is what you get.

Attachment 8590

Now to remove the calipher that you are looking at. At the back of the calipher there are 2 13mm bolts holding the calipher bracket to the knuckle these are circled in red, do not remove the bolts circled in blue, those are for the calipher pins, you can remove them if you like but it's not neccesary.

Picture of the top bolt for the calipher bracket

Attachment 8591

and one of the bottom bolt.

Attachment 8592

Once those have been removed, pull the calipher off the rotor, may need a little of encouragement, so try the pry bar, or the rubber mallet. Hang the calipher to the side of the axle assembly being careful not to damage the brake line, as it is in the pic

Attachment 8593

and finally remove the rotor. (it too may also need encouragment....hammer time:yahoo: )



Wow, almost half way done, have you cut any of your digits, bashed any knuckles, used the bandaids as mentioned in the beginning of this how-to, if not you're doin good, if so........man up and keep going:lol: .

Ok, so now that the calipher is off and safely hanging out of the way things are going to look like this.

Attachment 8594

See the black thing circled in red, that is the backing plate of the wheel bearing\hub. On the back of the plate is where the speed sensor wire is disconnect the wire and remove from the backing plate. In the back of the hub assembly is 3 bolts(will be pointed out in next pictures to come, hard to get at with camera:scpimp: )

Ok so using your 1/2 inch ratchet, 1/2 inch extension and 13mm socket, remove the 3 bolts holding the hub assembly in place. Once that is done, get happy prybar, reason for such actions is because the hub is in there pretty tight. Once that is loose and ready to come out grab your handy mallet, whilst holding onto the hub, beat on the axle bolt until the hub detaches from the splines of the axle bolt, (you can also do this prior to removing the 3 13mm bolts from the rear of the hub assembly)the backing plate will also follow suit from there. You will notice the speed sensor wire from the wheel bearing in an odd position, don't panic, if you have an extra hand around ask them to push the axle backwards and off to the front of the vehicle to get the wire out of there.

After all is said and done this is what you will have(the pic below tells you that tale)

Attachment 8595

And as mentioned before the bolt holes circled in red, that is the posistion of the 3 13mm bolts that hold the hub assembly.

From here you will put the new wheel bearing in. Put the backing plate in just as you found it (i forgot to do this :cry: )and get the wheel bearing assembly on the axle bolt. If you have an extra hand get them to push back the axle and slide the speed sensor wire through the same you did taking it out. Centre the wheel bearing on then put the 3 13mm bolts back in place tighten them down and torque to about 50-60 ft lbs.

oh and here is a pic of the old wheel bearing

Attachment 8596

Ok so now comes the putting back together part, but before doing so, some final preparation.

1. Brake Calipher, take a press of some sort, ball joint press or whatever you have that is a press, and compress the calipher piston, be sure to remove the brake fluid cap off the resevoir("under" the hood) and make sure brake fluid doesn't over flow. This way you can put the calipher back on the rotor. Also use a block of some sort when putting pressure on the calipher piston so that it goes in evenly, otherwise you might as well replace the calipher.

2. Anti-sieze compound on the a axle bolt prior to puttin on the new axle nut(the 35mm one)

Ok so you have the new hub assembly in place and tightened down, put your rotor on and then the calipher, replace the 2 13mm bolts that tighten the calipher bracket to the knuckle, torque to about 50-60 ft lbs.

Put the tire back on the vehicle and finger tighten the lugnuts on, jack up vehicle, remove jack stand, lower vehicle (gently). Torque the lugnuts down to 100 ft lbs doin so in a star pattern(prevents bending rims:eek: ).

The new wheel bearing should have come with a new nut. Put the nut on the axle bolt and torque to it's new specs of 180 ft lbs(going by the pamphlet in new part box:lol: ) or as previously stated no more than 150 ft lbs.

After all the above is said and done this is what you have

Attachment 8597

Put on centre cap and do the other side now :haha:

Any errors or mistakes made on my part can be corrected by anyone, and would be greatfully appreciated if there are any seen..

Thanks for the time you took reading this....my first how to.

Raz

PROPSss

haha, get a pipe also, the wheel hub bolts are IN there

it also helps to jack up both sides, and remove both wheels at once, even if you are only doing once side, so you may turn the wheel to get better access to the bolts

Ummm yah what he said about the pipe, and also the jacking up of both sides :lol:

when i did my passenger side, it took about 4 1/2 feet, of breaker bar to get that basdard off

Holy Crap nateman, I don't think mine were that bad.

154K miles, orig hubs, sat for three years, not running( i restored it) next to the ocean....


and the driver's side is getting bad.....
:cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry:

Is the precedure the exact same for the rear rotors, or is there any differnece??

There's no 35mm nut on the rear, as there is no axle. Other than that, it's pretty much the same.

i applaud you sir. Thank you for a good write up!

great write up. be careful with the hammer on the rotor...

and dont hang the caliber from the brake line like that

Ummm yah that was my bad, was doin the job at work and was being lazy, but no harm done(thankfully)


Yah I like rubber mallets and 2x4's.


Thank you sir.

Raz

i know front left and right wheel bearings are the same... does anyone know if the rears are the same as the fronts?

I don't think the rears are the same as the front(don't quote me though)they are rear specific as there is no axle nut......but they are right to left interchangeable lol:p

Raz

its because you lack upper body strength :)

sweet writeup bro. thanks. Now come change my driver side. LOL

I could do that...just as long as you're gonna fly me up and provide the proper tools:jk:

Raz

That one looks a heck of a lot different than mine did. What year is that car?

Mine would be a 2003.

Raz