I have a question for you auto body guys. What is better, a one stage paint or a two stage paint? Can or should you clear a one stage paint? Also what are your views on acrylic based paints?

single stage will give you a bad finish, its not durable,and looks like crap...

if you care about how your car looks and how long the new paint job lasts then you really should get a base/ clear system

only time i would say its ok to use a single stage is if you just looking to sell your car immediatly and you want to trick people into thinking its better then it is

haha thanks. Yah that is what I thought, I found it a bit funny that you would need no protection for the color coat.

I had only acrylic on my old z24 and it looked pretty damn good.

single stage has come a long way since the 70`s, back then it was enamel, or laquer, now it is a polyurathene material or acrylic it is not as user friendly, the mettalics are very difficult to spray you still get the durabilty and the shine from a single stage paint

base coat/ clear coat is allot easier to use dries faster, shines like glass, more durable, better produtiveity, more options in color in PPG`s dbc system when activated with dx57 the base coat is chip resistant, and not to mention lower VOC`S then a single stage material
the best way is to go with the base /clear

I am going to go with a 2 stage system. PPG epoxy primer, acrylic enamel color and PPGs DCA468 clear coat. Damn near spent 1000.00 on paints but is should look very nice, I got the brilliant black crystal paint color.

well again i see ya didn`t listen ya should have went with the dbc system, ppg`s expoy primer the dp lf90 came out back in the 80`s old old material, still good product but old technology
if ya went with the dbc system the ncs 2004 2003 2005 is the replacment for the dp product
1,000 is over priced for what ya bought, maybe ya should have listened to the voice of expereince
oh ya but what do i know

don't be such an ass

he can't help it. He's the body work God. :)

Well 1000 covered everything and prep. I really don't care much about old tech. it worked then and it will work now. What I am looking at is not a paint job that will last 25 years but something that will last till I want to paint it again in a few years. It will hold up and look great when its done and thats all the matters.

Wow, the LF DP primer came out that long ago. I was just using the regular DP (40, green-gray) until they discontinued it. For a beginner I'd recommend the DBU paint with the DC? Clear (Stratoclear). The clear is really easy to work with for a beginner.

well at least iam good at something un like your self, the strato clear you talk about if iam not mistaken has been dicountinued, and why would the dbu system be easy to begin with?? if he has no experience if painting it won`t matter if it`s the dbu or dbc system or du pont or ici or spies hecker, and if your going to be putting all this material on now and then want to redo the car again in a few yrs, all your doing is putting on unwated material and then when it is time to re paint you will have more material to remove so why not do this the 1st time the right way and leave it alone

^ that part i agree with... i think it's kinda crazy to paint it one way when you know you are gonna paint it again in a few years... my answer woulda been... it'll look great till i sell it and buy a new car...

Odds are I am going to remove the aas kit by then and replace it with something else. Right now the AAS kit is molded so that is a huge amount of the car to paint right there. But for the sake of all this I will run down to my local PPG distrubutor and see if I can get my hands on the better more user friendly paint.

ppgnut... I am going to go down and ask these guys about this paint. You say use the DBU system or DBC system. What do I need to say to them to get the right paint?

It was DCU2082. I know they still have it in stock locally.

product sheet on stratoclear-
http://www.ppg.com/refinishftpsite/docs/P-...82_Ultimate.pdf

Product sheet on Deltron topcoat=
http://www.ppg.com/refinishftpsite/d...52_DBU_DIU.pdf

I was just referring to the products that I have used and had good luck with, I'm not a professional and I know I'm not that good at it... One other thing noticed is that if you mix the base/clear and let it sit for a while before you spray it (about 75% of the pot-life) it tends to dry faster and get less dust an other impurities in the finish. Of course i wouldn't have that problem if i was spraying under ideal conditions.

ok so i would not use 2082 again old technology, i would use dcu 2042 or dcu 2021 mixed with dx61, ratio is 4:1:1 flexed with dx 814 4:2:2:1
i would go with the dbc system and get dx 57 it activates the base coat sprays much better flater mettalics lay much flatter
primer i would use ncp271 mixed with 275 ratio is 3:1
sealer ncs 2004 or 2005 ratio is 2:1
so i would do it one time, fix all the poopty body work and re paint it and be done with the car

Thanks. I am going to bring this into the paint guys see if I can get what I need. What is this all going to cost and how much do I need of everything take in mind full paint job and a little extra if I mess up.

Thanks for your help

ppgnutt knows what he's sayin. All who disagree can suck on deez nutz. He aint the best typer, but he can spray and sand with the best. :pimpin:

and btw, materials add up. 1000 aint much. And people wonder why paint jobs cost 3K