Idler pulley
 

Are the two idler pulleys the same on a 3.4? They both growl so I want to replace them when I do my belt

I belive they might be a tad different. When you go to a autostore they will ask do you need the upper or lower idler pulley. So just pick up both upper and lower idler pulleys and you will. Be good. Just make sure you install them in the correct spot.

At the stealership they were the same part number last time I replaced the pair. Maybe different year to year though I dont know. That was my 99...

They are the same part number, I would do it ASAP. We let it go on my mom's 3100 and pulley snapped on her.

Thanks for the info guys. My plan is to run dayco idler pulleys and tensioner with a gates belt.

Gatorback Belt man... and put out the couple of extra bucks and get the GM tensioner, nothing else last for crap.

What's special about the Gatorback belt? I hear they whine. Why the GM tensioner? I have had good luck with the Dayco ones but I can't stand their belts.

Gatorback belts do whine when up in the rpm, but it sounds cool. Other than that it a normal belt to me. I run a dayco belt.

I run whatever belt autozone gives me. Plus I have to run a shorter belt from another vehicle because I removed the a/c. So I just keep the part number and go up there and tell em what number and I get my belt.

Dayco belt would last two days, not kidding either.. 2days, on my car but I was shifting much higher than most will ever see. I tried all kinds and only the Gator would hold the shifts I was putting down. Then anything other than a GM tensioner would crap out after a month tops. The spring in anything other than GM is just crap imo. I killed a dayco tensioner in under a week

I decided to go all Gates. The gates tensioner even shares the same part number as the OEM one.

Nothing wrong with Dayco idlers and belts. I do not like Dayco tensioners though. Please post pics of the Gates tensioner (and I want to know the country of origin). I hate it when the original is a metal idler and the aftermarket is plastic. I keep looking until I find a metal aftermarket idler.

Are both idler pulleys right hand thread? Just ordered the parts yesterday and wanna know before I start fixing up my car. Also if I use a 2x6 can I set a jack under the oil pan to support the engine weight?

Ive used wood to jack the engine in mine many times, not recommended though. You are taking a risk so you know. It's an aluminum pan and you do run the risk of cracking/breaking it!
And yes, both are RT threaded retaining bolts

Ive used wood many times on my oil pan. It says on the pan to use wood.

But I also put only little tension just enough to hold motor in place if I unbolt motor mount. Never actually use it to raise the motor out of the bay.

Questions is. Why do you need to jack engine up to remoce pulleys? They should be easy to get to even with motor mount in place

And yes right is tight. Left is loose..

To change the belt.

Oh I didnt read that he wanted to change the belt.

You should be okay to put a block of wood under it. Just barely jack it up and I mean barely. Then unbolt the motor mount. Jusy dont excessively jack it up while mount is attached.

My belt experience:

• Gatorback lasts well, simply becomes squeaky in the end when it's time to replace.
• Duralast lasts well, simply becomes squeaky in the end when it's time to replace.
• Dayco lasts well, simply becomes squeaky in the end when it's time to replace.
• Dayco completely shredded at random only a month or so after installation. I had my old Gatorback in the trunk luckily so I could just quickly swap it and endure the squeakiness.

Easy fix for belt squeak. Put about an inch in length of di electeic grease on both sides of belt. Problem solved.


Ive done this numerous times. Weather it just squeaks or I accidentally get a fluid on the belt and makes it chirp.