Did anybody go with the grease-able brackets from PFYC.com

Hope that with the hassle the rear was for me the front will be easy! I'm going to do it at the same time as the rest of the suspension/brakes, so everything is pretty much going to be disconnected from the subframe.


I inserted a zerk fitting into the stock bracket and drilled a small hole through to the centre of the bushing. I'm waiting for silicone grease that I ordered to arrive and I will test it out to see if it works to get some grease into the centre. PFYC doesn't sell greasable brackets, they just sell replacement bushings, which are pictured with a greasable bracket that is not included.

I bought Energy Suspension grease-able bushings but they did not work. The mounting brackets are very generic and you have to modify them to fit your application. I spent some time trying to make the front brackets fit right with the tabs but was unhappy with the end result and just used the stock brackets. So in my opinion don't waste your money on them like I did.

I'm installing my PFYC sway bars this week. I hope it's not too bad

Just wanted to bump this up... i did the rear bar last night and while installing the bushing i noticed there's definitely a right and wrong way up... if you look at the flat part of the bushing the top has a smoother angle while the bottom has a sharp angle... this will effect how easy the bracket lines up and repositions to bolt it down... i didn't get a picture but if you look at the bushing you should see what i mean :p

Well I've had my Swaybars (front and rear) installed for roughly six months now, no issues. Very stuff ride though which is nice.

Maybe one day I'll get a set if I find some for sale. Money was rough last group buy so I couldnt join in

They come up every once in a while on the fourms, that's how I got mine. They are worth it.

Lowered, these are a must guys. The difference is amazing

Thats what people keep telling me. :lol:

I'm debating on what to do with my GA. I may save up and get a GTO (05-06) or a G8 GT. Or I may keep the GA, throw some 18's on it, lower it, and finish the GT conversion along with getting a SC/T hood.

My car is paid off and it's in really good shape so it's a debate at this point. I would like to have a powerful car, however I may be better off if I finish school first.

I dont understand why they dont just leave the bars up on PFYC.com so people can purchase more

Prob not alot of interest

Cost to run production is too high to make individual sets... and no one in this economy can afford.to have product just sitting on shelves... you then ha e increased warehousing costs plus money is tied up in the product til it hopefully sells... especially for.us with a dwindling platform....

Someone was recently trying to pull together another group buy for a second production run, but I don't think they got enough people to commit to make it happen unlike the last time.

They were unsuccessful, I got really lucky when I got mine.

just saw this on the "everything you wanted to know about your car" thread posted by lonnie...
here are the torque specs for the bolts when doing the front sway bar:

1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle.
2. Remove the front tire and wheel assemblies.
   
   Click to Enlarge
3. Reposition the intermediate steering shaft seal in order to gain access to the lower pinch bolt.
4. Remove the lower pinch bolt from the steering gear.
5. Support the front suspension crossmember with a suitable jackstand.
6. Remove the rear mounting bolts from the front suspension crossmember.
7. Remove the center mounting bolts from the front suspension crossmember.
8. Remove the front mounting bolts from the front suspension crossmember.
9. Lower the front suspension crossmember approximately 15 cm (6 in) by adjusting the jackstand down.
   
   Click to Enlarge
10. Remove the retaining bolts and stabilizer shaft insulator brackets.
11. Install the new stabilizer shaft insulator brackets and retaining bolts.Tighten
    Tighten the stabilizer shaft insulator bracket bolts to 66 N·m (49 lb ft).
12. Install the front mounting bolts to the front suspension crossmember. Hand tighten the bolts.
13. Install the center mounting bolts to the front suspension crossmember. Hand tighten the bolts.
14. Install the rear mounting bolts to the front suspension crossmember. Hand tighten the bolts.
    Tighten
    1. Tighten the left rear bolt to 110 N·m(71 lb ft).
    2. Tighten the right rear bolt to 110 N·m(71 lb ft).
    3. Tighten the left front bolt to 110 N·m(71 lb ft).
    4. Tighten the right front bolt to 110 N·m(71 lb ft).
    5. Tighten the center bolts to 110 N·m(71 lb ft).
    6. Tighten the stabilizer shaft insulator brackets bolts to 66 N·m(49 lb ft).
15. Install the lower pinch bolt from the steering gear.Tighten
    Tighten the bolt to 40 N·m(30 lb ft).
16. Install the front tire and wheel assemblies.

Is it possible to put in the front sway bar upside down? Or will it go in only one way?

Just had mine installed at a shop. I didn't take a pic, but it looks exactly like Starglow's picture from this thread, with that notch in the bar at the top.



The bar ends curve up towards the endlinks, away from the control arm at the ends. Is this how it's supposed to be, or should the bar curve down towards the control arm at the end - which is how it would be if flipped upside down.

I forgot to check how the stock bar looks when installed. Thanks.

Thanks for the time saving instructions!
 

[quote=03Sleepr;617596]First off, I'm not a professional mechanic but I hope I was thorough enough for any novice mechanic to be able to do this. if not, feel free to PM me or ask in comments.

This saved me a great amount of time! I wish I'd found this before I started my project. I wrestled with the mounts for quite a long time - finally getting them out - before I saw your note to remove the sub-frame! Duh...

Thanks again...

Great help here!
 

Thanks for the help! Wish I'd found it sooner. Would have saved me hours of time.

Thanks again...