First time N-Body owner
 

Hello all,

First of all I wanna say I'm happy and proud to be a member of this forum. This is the first time I've ever owned a N-Body. I have owned W-Body (98 GTP) Coming from a Grand Prix I'm surprisingly quite happy with my 2002 3400 Automatic Black 4-Door. That being said. I bought this car with 160,000 miles on it roughly. When I first got it on the road it was throwing a check engine light. Scanned it and it came back TCS, MAF, and EGR. Changed all 3 and EGR is still on but I think it's where I didn't clean out the port. Not a problem, in the future it'll be deleted anyways.

Main concern and I've looked and forgive me if this question has popped up a bunch of times but I couldn't find any information that truly helped me. My transmission shifts (real) hard going through the gears. Then, at other times it won't at all BUT will kinda hesitate for a whole sec - second a half. Also the RPM when gaining a little speed (not stomping it) is real jumpy.

Has anybody had this problem or knows exactly what I'm talking about? I really really like this car. I've checked out sites such as Milzy Motorsports and Wide Open Throttle Technologies and the more I read and learn about these phenemonal 3 series FWD motors the more I wanna go rob a bank lol (j/k) But before I can go any further with my project Alero I have to get my tranny problem taken care of. Can anybody help me out??

I don't think cleaning out the EGR port will help it, but it shouldn't hurt to do it. Almost any sensor unplugged could cause the PCM (computer) to default to high line pressure for the transmission, but that means the wires at the EGR going to the computer are suspect as well. Try disconnecting the battery cable for a long time to see if the code disappears. Do you get a reading on the scanner for IAT (intake temperature)?

Also visit http://www.grandamgt.com/ ,another good n-body site.

No IAT code. Really not concerned at this point with the EGR. My main concern is the tranny. Does it sound like anything typical? Or what would you do with it? Junking or selling the car isn't an option. I love this car. Milzy wants $2,500 to rebuild a 4T45-E. I mean I wouldn't have that kind of money extra to spend on it till the next tax time (as I spent mine buying the car) Spending $2,500 on the car doesn't bother me none but I'm not sure a 4T45-E tranny is worth that much. I need advice on what step to take next. Change fluid and filter and replace shift solenoid? Or baby as much as I am now and hold out till next February? In the meantime go ahead and replace as much as I can? Decisions, decisions

What I meant was, an open connection in the EGR circuit or IAT circuit could cause hard tranny shifts. Do you get an actual intake temperature reading on the scanner?

A full tranny fluid flush can be risky at this late date.

Oh, I apologize I didn't quite understand you. I just used a regular Snap On OBDII hand held scan tool and it didn't have the option for the Intake temperature. I understand a tranny flush is risky, but on the other hand I've also heard people say to do it no matter what cuz it needs changed like any other fluid. But I think I agree with you, at this point I believe the little shards in the fluid is what's keeping it from not being so slick to the point of slipping. Because it doesn't slip whatsoever just shifts hard. Also I think I noticed yesterday that the dreaded has happened. Yes, I mean the dreaded LIMG ugh fml!

OK one thing at a time. Should I just go ahead and replace the IAT sensor? I seen a guy on here I think his name is ?Baby Blue? he did a 3500 swap, F40 6-speed swap, and he also did a FULL suspension replacement. I was awestruck. And I started getting the same kinda itch lol. So I don't mind whatsoever to start replacing sensors and gaskets, etc, etc...I guess I kinda need a shove in the right direction and at least a few chronological steps first :)

IAT would cause a bad and or a hard shift, but so can a MAF. I had both become an issue on mine. When my MAF went, the car stalled on the way to work. It would only start and run for about 5 seconds, then stall out again. I unplugged the MAF and plugged it back in after the car was running. When I shifted into drive, The tranny shifted so hard I thought somebody rear ended me (yeah I know how that sounds :lol:)

My point, it could be any one of the many sensors on the car causing an issue. I would suggest checking the tranny fluid first. It's cheap and easy. Just a real PITA to check as there's no dip stick. The car has to be on a level surface, warmed up, and removed the 11mm plug on the pass side of the tranny to see if anythig comes out. If anything comes out, it's full. If nothing comes out, fill until something does. Much easier with 2 people, even if youre the one doing all the dirty work and the other is just looking for fluid coming out.

See if you can get a scan done with a scanner that shows hidden codes. The hidden codes are codes that are going to come up, but right now, they are kinda like in a Beta mode. Sounds kinda weird, but I've heard GM vehicles do this a lot.

Where an IAT is a cheap sensor to pick up, theres no use throwing money at a problem that isn't there :awesome:

Been watching some YouTube videos. I'm being led to believe that maybe the Pressure Control Solenoid is bad? Also while I'm in there should I replace both Shift Solenoids as well? What about the TCC solenoid? What else do I need to do? Tranny fluid is good. Got insurance and electric bill this paycheck and I'm gonna do this job next paycheck