So T8 and V9 would be equivalent(sp?) to 85 and 86 which are the coil
and V8 is the same as 30
and T9 is the same as 87

also when testing this it doesn't matter if 85 is hot or ground and the same for 86, because these are the coil. just test acroos 87 and 30 to see if it is closing, when voltage is applied to the coil and closing when voltage is taken off.


Oh yeah make sure there isn't a diode across the coils or you will have to go with the right polarity Cherry!

If there is a diode shown put the positive side on the cathode side (side with the stripe) of the coil and the negative on the anode side ( side without the stripe)

ok... so the rear passanger turn signal is out, i'm gonna check the bulb when i get back from some errands... but it looks ok (took only that one out) but the wiring is blue and black (by the looks of it, in a dark garage)

i got most of the browns reconnected, but i also have a stray.. i can't seem to find where it is in the grid, but i guess if i have one left over, thats what it connects too... :huh:

and i don't seem to have continuity to any of the browns, from the rear passanger backup light. how could that be? i'll have to check the other side, later too.. just odd things all over the place.

what the eff! i had like 4 posts in here, that i posted an hour or two ago, and now they are gone... worthless damn server!!! :gun:


ok. so i'm getting the browns connected... slowly... but i'm getting there.

ok... so the browns are reconnected in the RIGHT way (tested continuity at the source, and at the cut, then matched them to the grid) but something is a miss.

-outer brake lights don't work
-can't check reverse lights for another 3 hrs (no-one to look while i hold the brake)
-passanger rear turn signal is out, causing the front to hyper blink.


... i hate chasing gremlins....

Update: I cut the passanger turn signal, dark blue power wire, up where the browns were cut. front (going to fuse/engine) was good, no short, good power. The back, showed a short....

soldered back together, tore up backseat and started tracing, and found nothing. retested, and its good now. :cry: what the hell is going on?!?

as it stands, the original short is gone, back lights are rewired (again, will check later) but the SVS light is still on.

how do i have a roaming short?????????????

ok... so... i dunno.

i didn't do anything.... so i won't ever say i fixed it.

but i tightened down the fuse boxes, rechecked all my fuses, put the door switches back on... and everything works... :wtf2: i'm confused. SVS light is gone too.


except... an odd thing going on with my driver's side switches. I put red lights under them.. and if you hold the window switch harness, very lightly press up on it (against the box) the light comes on, and when it does, the mirror light goes off. when you lightly let up on it.... the mirror light comes on.... maybe its been rained on too many times? could this be what was causing issues?? and while i'm asking, the mirror bulb was the one with 0 continuity, but still lit slightly under 12V power. maybe it was causing problems?? i frankly, have no answers at this point... but i guess i'm in the market for new switches... just so see if maybe the board is bad in one of them...

Well you had to fix it some how, or like you said the drivers side switch panel had moisture in it and probably shorted out the board. Its really hard to say at this point, cause alot of things that aren't even associated with the interior lights are acting up. I could see where that switch panel being wet could cause that problem but I've left my door open during ran a few times and never experienced that. So help me to under stand, is everything but the rear turn signal working and I'm just talking about the factory circuit?

no...

everything is working. absolutely everything.

wow very odd!

yeah. tell me about it. i think the gremlin that was trying to stay one step ahead, quickly ran down the road to pester someone else with random issues. :lol:


and also, i want to add, the leds i was trying to add, in the door switches, works in theory. i got some to light, but they are all different brightness levels, and some work when others don't... so i'm going back to the old fashioned method.... i tried... :p

Yeah I here that. The LED's in the switches how are you running power to them?

i was using the gray wire that goes into each switch. its power to the bulb. for interior illumination. but for some reason, some work, and others don't.


i also figured, if i changed the outside ones, i'd have the change the HVAC ones... and after looking at them, it'd be too much work to do... so i'm scrapping that project. (plus, w/ my door speakers out for replacement, my doors will be off for like 2 weeks. :lol: )



but thanks alot for the help man. you and cliff really saved my ass on this one!

he'll be back....gremlins always come back

if it does... it'll be for something completely unrelated.... its sad, that the majority of the work i've done on my car (from things going wrong) are completely from my own doing. :lol:

:lol: :lol: :lol: