Here we go......

Nope, not getting into with him brother. If the OP wants to give me me a shout, all good....

:cry:

Good call buddy.

Paul lacks the character to do any more than make snide comments on a forum regarding a company's work he detests, not based on experience, but rather "us vs them" mentality.

Sorry Matt, I can't wait to hear this new setup, and hear your feedback on how it performs. Nothing else matters, because its your car and you put your trust in multiple companies to make your ride what it is. Id say you got the best you could, from where you could. No one else here can say that.

Sorry to crap your thread Matt ...

Ben if you feel that's all people are doing towards you or even to Mike, be the professional and bigger man and ignore the comments... if Matt felt Paul had a valid point he would ask or comment... it's not your place to drop to the level which you have been lately in numerous threads with the emoticons of all.choice to make a point... to me who has no affliction to either company, it just lowers my impression of your company and as a sponsor to this site makes it look bad as well.. which as a supporter of this site angers me, i cant imagine what the owners think...

Again, Matt i apologize for crapping your thread, I'm just sick of this senseless BS

Guess ill have to ask once again for our section and banner to be removed. Tried in March and the owners didn't seem to care much.

No worries everyone. I'm not trying to and nor do I have any interest in starting a vendor war. This is a tiny niche market anyway; we need all the support we can get.
I've tried to be very meticulous in choosing parts for this build, and from what little I know, it's one of the more ambitious NA projects. Hopefully, everything works together the way I expect it to.
I'll be having the car dyno'd before and after the swap to see what effects everything had. I'll post a complete build sheet at that time also.
I'm hoping that it proves to be reliable, durable, and......oh yes, make lots of POWER!!!!!!!

Yeah Elk Grove Village, IL that's my hometown and where I grew up lol. Anyway it looks like the car is coming along very nicely. I can't wait to see the finished product. Man I remember when I first saw your car back at A.S.S. in 2010. Its come a long way since then and I have to say you've done a great job. To see the car progress over the year's and to know all that hard work, time, effort, and money has paid off. The car looks amazing Matt and props to all you have done to your Alero. You've earned it man.

You done a 1/4 with your current setup matt?

Nope.

To bad tracks are closed now :-(

I had intended to go around Thanksgiving but got too busy.

Too bad that would have been a neat baseline.... how are your thoughts about the clutch holding up. You got the dual mass as well didn't you?

Yes he has the dual mass. I'm sure it will hold up fine.

This clutch/flywheel/pressure plate combo holds up fine in a 650hp supercharged LS7 Fiero, so I think I'll be fine.

:)

This thing is going to make a crapload of torque if I can get it tuned correctly...



Honestly, the method of adding 15 degrees to the IVC measurement is a bit inaccurate, since it assumes older, slower ramped cam lobes.
My cam has very fast ramp rates (Comp XFI lobes) so I need to fudge that # a bit. My IVC point is closer to 63 degrees, which would yield a DCR of 8.467:1. Still quite healthy, but probably about as high as I can go on 93 octane pump gas.

For those who are curious, here is how to calculate the intake valve closing (IVC) point:
1. Divide the intake duration by 2 (use advertised duration - @ .006)
2. Add the results to the lobe separation angle (LSA)
3. Subtract any ground-in advance
4. Subtract 180

And are you going to tune it or have it done when dyno'ed ?

Will likely be tuned on the dyno after a proper break-in.

It's not that we do not care. It's just that we need a merchant that is knowledgedgeable and will not rip people off ;)

Stopped by the shop today to see what was happening....

Looks a bit high in front...


Oh, that's why.



25,000 mile mildly-built 3400 anyone?



Tansmission is clean and has already received the new Quaife limited-slip -



As you saw in a previous picture, my brake lines are very rusty (the car has not seen winter driving in over 10 years)....GM must have used the cheapest shit they could find. Oh well....new stainless steel brake lines will be bent and installed.
When the new motor was coming out, they naturally disconnected the fuel lines....the plastic feed connector just disintegrated when the feed line was disconnected! So I probably avoided at best a large fuel leak, and at worst, an engine fire/explosion. So those get replaced also.

They need to transfer sensors/brackets/accessories over to the new motor, and the hope is that the new motor will go in by the end of the week.
It'll be 2 weeks until I get the power steering pump back from Turn One, and since I've gone this far, I may replace the stock 145,000 mile fuel pump with a Racetronix pump. New rear SS braided brake hoses, fresh brake fluid, and tuning.
Hoping to perhaps make a trip to Road America in early May - Midwest F-body Association is renting the track out May 3rd and 4th!

how much are you looking for for the "old" 3400?? even though I have most of the parts for my build already, a clean built motor like that might be easier hahah!! oh ya, and would you ship?? :p

I'll send you a PM, Tim.

Getting excited for you Matt, cant wait to see it done man!!!!! Good luck brother

:scpimp:

Sweet Matt! Super excited for you buddy. Hope this is finally the build that satisfies you for a while!

Hey, wait a minute, what does that numerical code mean?

They are 442 heads. Duh. ;)

Ok Matt... time for an update buddy! How's it looking?

Interestingly, I called the shop today and, surprise! Talked to someone.
Power steering pump is back from Turn One, and accessories have been transferred to the new motor. The motor has not gone in yet, because the new stainless brake line doesn't come in until Monday. After those get bent up and installed, it should not be too long.

Nice man! Progress is good then

If I could get the blasted vid to work in Photobucket.....

http://s641.photobucket.com/user/mat...0eeff.mp4.html

As you can hear, it's very mild.....almost stock-sounding. I'm kinda astounded by it. This is WOT's "Race" cam, boys and girls.
http://wot-tech.com/shop/gm-60v6/rac.../prod_244.html

Granted, it's still in open loop and idling at about 1000rpm, but still......
I guess that's what nearly 11:1 compression will do for you.

vertical video syndrome

congrats though lol

O.o Nice Matt... I'm still waiting for mine to be done...

So, I picked up my car from the shop about 10 days ago.
I had to repair a few problems I found (none of which was difficult to remedy but still kinda rubbed me the wrong way), but I have been taking a few short trips to gently break the motor in.
I haven't gone much over 3000 rpm, and my throttle applications have been very gentle.
When I finally do get to the point of giving it the beans, I might just be too frightened to do so. If it's anything like the was this thing pulls at low rpm, I'm pretty sure something's going to break in spectacular fashion. Seriously, it's like there are two extra cylinders under the hood. Not kidding.
Here's the details:
The original block was bored 1mm oversize, to fit the custom Diamond Racing pistons. The pistons are 2618 forgings, with coated skirts and SwainTech TBC on the crowns. The pistons swing on modified Scat forged connecting rods, with full-floating pins. The rods use Clevite H-series bearings on the big end, and have custom bronze bushings on the small end. The crank is the factory 3400 cast piece, but balanced and micro polished. The mains were line-honed, but the main caps are attached with factory bolts. The crank snout was turned down to accommodate the TCE double roller timing set. A WOT-TECH Race cam spins in the block, supported by Durabond coated SBC wide cam bearings.
The 3500 LX9 heads have been ported by WOT-TECH, and use Manley stainless steel valves, PAC Racing 1518 nitrided valve springs, and Manley titanium retainers. The heads also received SwainTech TBC on the combustion chambers, valve faces, and exhaust ports. The heads are cinched to the block with factory TTY bolts and sealed with Cometic MLS head gaskets. A ported 3500 LIM matches to a ported 3400 plenum to wrap up the top end. I re-used my 28# Trailblazer injectors and 65mm throttle body. No fender well intake here either, just a K&N panel filter in the factory airbox. On the exhaust side, SwainTech White Lightning-coated MMS headers, a Magnaflow catalytic converter, and a Borla cat-back.
I changed out the Delrin bushings in the transmission mounts for polyurethane. It made a huge difference in the comfort and livability of the car. The F40 6-speed was treated to a Quaife helical limited-slip differential.
The car idles happily at about 750rpm, and pulls away from rest very smoothly with no bucking. This cam has less overlap than my old one, which contributes to the mild manners. The upside (partially due to the calculated 10.85:1 compression ratio) is lots of low end grunt and no perceptible peaks or valleys. But, like I said, I haven't even gotten into it yet.
This is probably one of the more ambitious engine builds, and it took a long time to get to this point. Hopefully, it'll continue to impress me as time goes on.
I'll try to update my impressions over the coming months.

Sounds good Matt! I can't wait to hear how this progresses long term :)

wow. Thats one heck of a build. cant wait to see what happens when you lay your foot into it.

Can you tell if the changes that I did with tiny tuner helped anything?

Thats what I want to know too.