WOT-TECH P&P Manifolds Review / Pics
 

2000+ 3400 Upper Intake Manifold Competition Ported with 65mm tb plenum opening and a 3500 Lower Intake Manifold Competition Ported done by Ben over at WOT-tech.

I highly recommend his work if anyone is thinking about p&p. I will be sending him my 3500 cylinder heads in the future for p&p after seeing how good these pieces ended up. Ben sent me $20 back through paypal saying he overcharged for shipping, not many people do that.

http://wot-tech.com/shop/

Honest business FTW.

Outstanding!

Welcome to the Big Boy's club. Post up more when you get it installed and can write about the experience with driving feel.

Installed the stock 3500 cylinder heads and the rest of the goodies last week. I was installing the LIM onto the cylinder heads without the valley gaskets and after bolting everything down, realized you have to use the valley gaskets or else you might have some problems.

It seems louder at high rpm's (ive gotten up to 4800 rpm's, not higher yet) and it revs up A LOT faster.

He has a turbo cam, so its not the same spec as NA. NA needs a bigger cam to get more air in, and drivability is more of a factor for NA as well.

What are some drivability disadvantages if i opted for your NA racing cam?

Basically is a lopey idle going to be the only disadvantage to using a race cam for a daily driver.

I have looked at your specs on the 60degreeV6 forum for street, strip, street/strip, racing cams and i like the #'s your racing cam puts out

The race cam is fine for street driving, but it requires manley race valves and PAC 1518 springs because its a fast ramp up rate. I am working on a tune for a customer with this setup, and you will need the 28# injectors. Just need to sort out the spark plug range (1 step colder right now, need to try 2 steps). Raised idle to 850 RPM. A double roller timing chain is advised for longevity. 94 gm timing chain would be the other option, since it is the strongest chain that fits the stock timing cover and crank. Basically, the Race setup costs a lot more in supporting mods to keep it reliable, but it will give you the best performance.

I'm just going to say this. I've got complete trust in Ben's recommendations and cam choice along with his combo of heads/intakes.

My car had NO nuts on low end before, due to the turbo size, but will now break performance tires loose off the line without going into boost (even with the 2.93 gear from the GTP trans), nevermind the fact it will now light em up from a 60mph roll when it kicks down to 2nd as well (but that's at 12psi almost instantly). But he's right, the turbo is different.

Suffice to say I think you'll have a good setup as long as you are attentive to detail during assembly.

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I'm using a FastForward Performance crank UDP that I picked up still new in the wrapper. It's first install was when I built this new setup.

Won't likely find one in new condition anywhere these days, but they seem to work pretty well.

I'm going to recommend against a non damper pulley. Id rather see a stock pulley on a high performance engine.

I just saw the thread about the powerbond udp w/damper at 60degreeV6, that would have been nice if it had worked out. Is there any chance of a future udp w/damper from this manufacturer or dead completely?

I have no faith in them making us an underdrive unfortunately. The non damper seems ok on NA stock compression motors but I would keep the damper for high compression or boost.

/\ Listen here. I blew my motor a few years ago due to what I believe is the use of a ffp ud pulley. The keyway sheared off my crank gear and the pistons and the valves made contact. The only way I can think of to make a keyway like that shear off flush would be the added stress of the udp. This was before I did the cam and other mods.

I've had a FFP pulley on my 3400 for 7 years now with no problems, not that I drive it all that much either.

Luckily, you can get a Fluidampr or ATI for the Ecotec. Too bad none are made for the newer v6/60.

what!? i need details on this. i have the FFP as well, you got me worried.

Not sure I understand the term "added stress".

If anything, there's less resistance against the crank pulley since it's turning the accessories slower.

The use of a dampener is to reduce a little of the vibration at the crank.

Only things I can think of that would shear off a keyway like that would be if one of the rotating components suddenly stopped. A piston blowing could cause the crank to stop suddenly and shear it off. A stuck valve or timing chain jumping teeth could cause the valvetrain to open with the piston at TDC suddenly stopping the crank, etc. Lets not get crazy here. There's a number of things that could point at in this case. Though maybe it was the UDP that caused it, but unless you have someone perform a professional "autopsy", you can't really be sure which one caused which.

I'm not saying the UDP didn't cause it, but it's possible it was the other way around.

Either way, using a dampener is better for daily high mileage driving.

Mine's a 2003 with barely 60k miles on it, and I just rebuilt the engine. How much do you think it gets driven?

Has nothing to do with mileage but this thread is pretty much trashed now for the topic. Need this split by an admin/mod.

Every combustion processes sends a shockwave through the crank, which goes through the entire valvetrain. That is what the damper is designed for. Without it, you are driving around with a tuning fork for a crankshaft.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harmonic_balancer

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harmonic_damper