WOT-TECH Billet Motor Mount w/install instructions
 

WOT-TECH 1999+ N-body Billet Mount

Install was quick and easy, 30-45 mins tops, even while stopping to take pics.

After install complete, Test Drive:

Drove around for a bit, just to make sure all the bushings and what not settled in appropriately, and allow the building of a little heat in the engine bay.

Initial throttle from from the dig - lower response time from hammer to feeling the pull. In otherwords, notably less torque flex. Pulled hard with no wheel-hop

Shifts - under hard acceleration (performance shift enabled at 92lbs line pressure) shifts were more firm, yet smooth. no clunky feeling as with many hard mount systems, again less torque flex on shifts.

Standard driving - comfort was same as driving stock, no notable vibration transfer, yet offered a bit more feeling of performance responsiveness.

All said, very nice indeed, and I'm sure with the response increase I was feeling and the shift firmness and stability, it should easily shave a little off my ET's.



AND THE COOL PART: They'll be discounted in WOT-TECH's "Black Friday" sale !!

CLICK HERE FOR INSTALL WITH PICS

mine is basically the same as BJ stated, but i do feel an ever so slight gas pedal vibration which i'm sure i only feel because of my cam and billet trans mount.

I think it's your Parkinson's :p

and i blame my lead foot on PTSD. :)

I could use a good installation write up:)

Right on !

I have to agree with Black Jack.

My car was shaking a lot due to the new billet tranny mount I installed in March, but this motor mount actually smoothed out the idle a lot.

I get wheel spin when I push the pedal down half way on certain road surfaces and smoke them when I floor it.

It only took about 30 mintues to install.

I give this product 2 thumbs up. If I had more thumbs, they'd be up too. Awesome product :D

Install Instructions
 

WOT-TECH Billet Motor Mount Install Guide

Installer: Michael Montgomery (BlackJack)

Install Time: 30-45 minutes, no helper.

Difficulty Level: Easy

Tools/Materials: Jack, jack stands, block of wood, basic standard/metric sockets and combo wrenches, 5mm hex-key, large screwdriver and/or pilot tool.

All original nuts/bolts will be retained and reinstalled except the nuts labeled (2) in step 5.

Mount received:


1.Set parking brake, and place front end on jack stands, or if you have a low-profile jack, you may not need to depending on if you car is lowered or not.

2.Place long wooden block (2x4 short length works fine) between the jack and motor to protect the oil pan, and raise a little just enough to take the tension off the motor mount. (Identify stock motor mount in following photo):


3.Take cruise control module loose (if equipped) by removing retainer clip on bracket.


4. It is NOT necessary to remove cable/wires from cruise module. Simply move it to the side as shown.



5.Locate the nuts/bolts on the mount cap. Begin loosening bolts labeled (1) evenly a few turns at a time. If you begin to see the motor start to lower, then raise the jack a little more to support the engine. Once those are removed, then remove the nuts labeled (2).


6.Remove the upper cap as shown:


7. Remove nuts (3) holding the stock mount bushing assembly to the lower frame


8. Remove the mount bushing assembly


9.Take the opportunity to do some cleaning while you have everything apart. This is one of the areas that is hardest to get to during engine bay cleaning.

10.Turn the mount assembly over and remove the 2 lower retaining nuts labeled (4)


11. Separate the bushing from the lower mount plate and keep the nuts for re-use with new assembly


12. Remove bolts labeled (5) and separate the new billet mount pieces:


13.Attach lower billet mount cradle to factory base plate by aligning the 5mm hex key bolts labeled (6) through holes in base plate


14. Turn the base plate over and secure with the factory nuts labeled (7), which were removed from the original busing assembly. Ensure you torque these securely.


15. Reassemble the bushing assembly

16. Place the supplied mount pads labeled (8) over the frame bolts as shown


17a. OPTIONAL PROCEDURE – Due to slight GM factory casting variations, there may be a need to open up the top plate so that the supplied bolts slip through.


17b. Orient the lower mount plate so that the offset hole has the Long offset side as depicted below, and install the factory upper mount plate and secure/torque with bolts labeled (9), and insert bolts with locknuts labeled (10) through the cradle and bushing assembly and tighten.


18. Place the assembly over the lower frame bolts and begin threading (but do not tighten) factory original nuts labeled (11)



19. Place a large screwdriver or pilot bar into the large hole as shown and align the motor with the upper mount plate


20.and insert factory original mount bolts labeled (12) into the holes and torque down.


21.Lower the jack supporting the motor and torque down the lower frame mount nuts labeled (11)


22.Take a moment to recheck all the bolts/nuts for tightening, then reinstall the cruise control module (if equipped) and any other accessories you may have removed prior to install such as coolant overflow lines etc.


23. Finished install should appear like so:


Remove car from jacks, put away your tools, and enjoy driving !

Great write-up BJ. I just bought this today and look forward to installing it soon.

BJ you fogot to mention jacking up the motor with the wood block. Very important set ;)

I was going to ask that. I need to buy a low profile jack and find a 2X4. Ive been putting off my serpentine belt and tensioner replacement until some one shows me proper jacking procedures. Thank you anyway BJ

I forgot? That's too important to forget. I think you just missed it:

My bad


I use the stock jack to jack up the car so I can slip my 2.5 floor jack under the car. I jack up the pass side of the car. Can't get it past the raditor dam otherwise

It's cool, just means you're getting old like me LOL