Need help wiring amp!!
 

Today I fed the wires through my car, but when i went to hook up to the battery, the type of wire terminal isn't compatible with the battery terminal. Though it WOULD easily hook to the power cable on the fuse box that connects it to the battery. Is that safe to do? As in does the fuse box power cable get the same alternator charge as the battery? If so could i just hook up right there? Running 800W RMS.

I'm not sure, but I don't think running an amp through a fuse box is a good idea. Your best bet is to find the compatible battery terminals and hook it up that way. Also, I'm assuming the wire is at least 4 gauge which wouldn't fit in the fuse box.

Well I wasn't necessarily going to be running it through the box, just "share" the power wire. But you're right i do have 4 gauge and i was going to cut out a port in the cover for it if it worked. Just need to know if id get the same power that the battery gets. Last resort Ill just find another terminal just don't know one that'll fit in such a weird battery terminal

Could you post a picture of what the terminal looks like? Is it the standard alero battery terminals?

Meh
 

:eek: No don't do it lol Most battery terminals for properly run amp cables have funky connections to the battery. Mine is a side post and has a gold piece that screws into the battery then a piece connected to the amp wire then a bolt that goes thru it.

https://www.google.com/search?q=side...%3B8 00%3B600


http://www.ebay.com/itm/MULTI-OUTPUT...item51bc4633f0

i work at a snowplow dealer/chevy dealer. we have side terminal adapters taht allow you to isntalled an "eye" terminal, then install the adapter and then install the original battery terminal.

http://www.jackssmallengines.com/gra...ge/1306095.jpg

Yea its the standard terminal. Thanks guys, been a great help!

be sure to throw up some pics after your done

will do, sub comes tomorrow

what ya going to run amp and speaker wise?

The 12" Kicker CompR Loaded Enclosure and KX800 amp. Came with a neat volume control knob that i screwed in next to my seat. Ill have pics up tomorrow once i figure out how.

Nice looking forward to the review.

I know I'm late, but I had my 900 watt Boston Acoustics amp hooked up to the "AUX" terminal of fhe fusebox of my Cutlass Supreme before I took it out. There's no real harm done to it since for the most part, the alternator's wire goes straight to the battery and the other cable attached to the battery terminal goes straight to the fuse box. As long as the cable is fused you should be good. Any jolts in power will pop the fuse before transferring it to the fusebox... and besides, that same jolt would probably travel to the fusebox anyways considering it's the same cable.

The only issue is with the wire that goes from the battery to the fuse box, it's not the same as car audio wire (a lot less strands) so there is more resistance. The factory wire that went from my alt + to the battery looks like 8 gauge welding cable so I wouldn't use that to power my amps. To get the most power out of the amps, I would recommend running directly from the battery with the correct fuses.

While I agree with hooking directly to the main battery terminal, unless you are going for a full competition setup, hooking to the fuse box is acceptable as long as it is done properly... I have done both in multiple cars over the years with no issues... some people just want a bit of bump and this works quite well for them... others are more serious and go with the main battery hookup... again, just my .02, take it as it is! :)

Your all making valid points which ironically doest make my decision making any easier lol but if what S8track16 said is true, even if id still get an alt charge from the box that extra resistance cant be good since my system demands 2 ohms. Right? I know im nitpicking but i like to do it right, no half assery. you all understand

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-40KX8001.html

If this is your amp, it says that 4 gauge is recommended for power and ground. It would be the best bet to run a wire from the front battery to the amp with fuses 12" or less from the main battery and another fuse 12" or less away from the amp (if there aren't any onboard fuses on the amp itself). Mainly because of the reason I mentioned above with the factory wire not meeting this 4 gauge requirement.

Unless you're talking more than 900 watts RMS, there's no real reason to worry.

As far as resistance, 2ohms are a lot easier to power than 4ohms. It's easier to power 100 watts at 2 than 100 watts at 4. You can also blow stuff up quicker that way. The real thing to worry about is total watts. You can run 500 watts at 2 ohms no problem and not do any real damage while being more efficient with it. But that same power that you used to get 500 watts at 2 ohms will be the equivalent of 250-350 watts at 4 ohms.

My final point?

Decide how many watts total will be needed and plan accordingly.

If you're gonna go for the 1000, get a dual post battery or get the adapter to connect more wires to it.

http://www.carid.com/universal-trail...FaMcOgodX0YAGw

They sell it at most auto parts stores for less than $10. Advance Auto Parts, Pepboys, Auto Zone, they're all known to have it.

I agree there... if you're going to do it might as well do it right. Probably would be easier to hook it to the battery anyway actually. I also agree with the fuse I have one running between my battery and the amp. Hardest parts getting the thick cable thru the firewall lol.

The Alero's entrance is a lot easier than any other car I've seen though. After wiring up my Camaro and my Cutlass... I wish I still had my Grand Am because it was so easy to do things to it.