Head gasket blown . . . .
 

Hihi, can somebody tell me if there are some specialty tools i need to take care of this job to change head gasket?
(and what bolds could be very stuck and are hard to remove?)
and every other info on this job woiuld be very much appriciated?
(yes sir i know my english is baad . . .lol)
thanks guys!

Mark.

torque wrench is about it I presume, its a pretty easy job. be sure to check the head for cracks thoroughly

Use the steps in this guide: http://ion-productions.com/2000_2_4_Engine_Overhaul.pdf

Use fuel rail bolts to hold the cam sprockets in place, an impact to take off the crank pulley, and be sure to have the head resurfaced. I would upgrade to ARP head studs instead of head bolts, and torque them all to 65 or higher ft-lb just because you can.

Also retorque them after your drive it once

Don't forget new head bolts, if they don't come with the kit.

A lot of guys will reuse head bolts to save money. Do yourself a favor, spend the few extra Euros and get new head bolts ;)

No. If he uses bolts they are torque-to-yield, no retorquing. If he uses studs and torques them to 65 or higher when the stock spec is 40, who cares if you lose a few lb-ft after the car is heat cycled? It's not at all worth taking it back down to the head... Engine's not the easiest to get down to the head.

Thanks for your answers, Looked the job, and engine over with my Haynes bible in hand, labeled all hoses and connectors, and tomorrow i'll start strippin' the thingy.
lol, a few euro's fer bolds? they are a screamin' 9 . . .YES NINE euro's a piece!
but the shop assembled a complete kit for me together so i hope all will be in it.
i will post my findings next week, thanks again bros!