I'm stumped.
 

I've been trying for the past hour and a half to try and figure out how I'm gonna connect my power wire to the positive terminal. The ring connectors I have are trash, and won't clamp down onto the wire at all. I don't wanna stick the wire into the terminal.

I'm completely lost, and have no idea what to do.

Buy new connectors.

is this the right kind?
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a...-PLATED/1.html

Finally got them to work. But now, can't find a good spot to mount the fuse, I don't got much room between the airbox and the battery, so I may just strap them down.

you get more (steady direct) power w.o a fuse. i forget the details but it slows down the draw of power from the battery a bit

I got the power back, but I can't get the headunits to go back in, the RCA cables are hitting a metal thing at the back. Help!

i took a pair of heavy duty plyers and ripped the plastic trim out from the back inside of the headunit area brute force style so the 6 rcas would fit.

You have to cut the back with our cars when adding an after market headunit.

This is the adapter you could have gotten if using a side post battery



Then you could have gotten these terminals and soldered the wire to it.

Then a 100amp inline fuse like so

Did you just suggest not using a inline fuse on the power wire???

I call BS on this. A fuse will NEVER interfere with the proper flow of electricity until it fails for a reason. There is virtually NO resistance nor capacitance in a fuse to delay the power in any way.

EVERY power feed should have an appropriately sized fuse as close as possible to the power source.

FYI - My degree is in Electrical Engineering/Computer Sciences

And to add this this true statement, should there be a powerspike or what ever or a short at the battery. The inline protects your amp or subs from being damaged and speakers / deck aswell.


also i give thumbs up, im a computer degree also and i plan on a masters, plus possibly a BA in Crim Justice

I got everything sorted out and hooked up.

I got the connectors to fit on the wire, and the battery terminal, I just drilled the hole a little bigger.

For the RCA's I just bent them down a bit so it would fit.

Now I need to find the best setting on my amp / head unit.

That works well, but I have a double-stacked battery terminal with a longer bolt.

Makes for a cleaner looking install in my opinion.

Why are you bending your RCA's?

And as for amplifier settings:

LPF: 80-100Hz
Bass Boost: Minimal-None in most cases.
Gain: -Download a 50Hz test tone.
-Use the formula ---> V=sqrt(watts*ohms)
- Attach dmm to + and - terminals on amplifier. (after unhooking subwoofer.)
-Play 50Hz tone at 75% volume. Turn gain up until you reach the voltage you acquired by using the formula above.
-Shut everything off and reconnect your subwoofer.
- :beerchug:
You can download the 50Hz tone here:
http://ampguts.com/cmps_index.php?pa...udio_downloads

Do what you feel is necessary at your head unit and enjoy. :)

I didn't bend the actual metal part, but the plastic at at the cable.

I'll probably not adjust my amp like that as I don't have a dmm. I'll adjust it by ear as best I can.

If I were to use a dmm, what watts and ohms would I use? The subs or amps rms or peak? For ohms, will it be whatever I will have the speakers wired as?

Say I had 2 300 peak, 150 rms 4 ohm subs wired in to 2 ohms, and the amp is 150 rms and 300 peak at 2 ohms.

What would I use?

That.... probably will not end well. And by probably.. I mean...

.......................__ ............
......<ROFL ROFL ROFL ROFL>.
........................| |...........
................... __\||/____......
.\\...............|'-|--| .\\....\.....
..\ \_...........|--|---|..\\ ....\....
../ L \____,/-------\___\___\
.|LOL|-------------O----- ----,\..
..\ L /______,---''-----------, /...
../ /.............\_________ ,/....
.//.............____//___ __\\__/.



I really hope I'm reading that wrong.

I am taking it as he is not 100% sure on what he is doing even though its a learning experience.

BUT drilling into a battery? i hope too that was read wrong. Cuz i mean as it was said in an earlier post, you can get longer terminal bolts, OR an even better idea is to get larger ring connectors to fit over stock terminal

No, I drilled the hole on the connector bigger. Should have worded that a little better before. I'm not that dumb lol.

Turns out that I have a multimeter. But I don't know what to set it to. It's a micronta from radioshack, it's pretty old.

indeed sir. the fuse adds an insanely small amount of resistance to the power. in the SPL world it adds like .5 to .2 db without a fuse. and every db counts. of course if youre not into that kinda shit then fuse it. also a lot of amps have built in fuses just for that reason. double fused is overkill imo

depends on what you want to test... :huh:?