Pesky Vibration
 

I have about 10,000 miles on my new tires. They are Sumit gta50s. Kinda cheap. My car has sat months at a time a few times in the 3 years I have had the tires. Now I get a vibration at any speed and its mostly felt in the floorboard and slightly in wheel. It gets worse when I turn. It mostly started after I stupidly did a burnout. That was almost a year ago. Now every place I take it to says they are cupped and thats causing it. I dont think it is, the rears are pretty bad since I rotated them, fronts look new since they used to be rears. Any suggestions? Car also has all new rotors and pads as of 2 weeks ago and struts.

Doing burnouts can wear out your wheel bearings much faster than regular use. A friend of mine has found that out with his 2009 Buick Lacrosse. Did some burnouts and a hard launch or two, and now his car is doing something like what you're describing.

If the tires don't move for too long, they can develop flat spots. There are chocks that you can use during storage to prevent flat spotting.

Front bearings are only about a year old forgot to add that. Literally the second I stopped doing it it started. Maybe a cv axle? Whats a good way to check that?

You'll hear a popping or clicking, especially in turns.

It would be a good idea to check your inner and outer CV boots for rips and tears. If there are any tears and the grease can get out, rebuild or replace the CV axle.

Cheapo tires, Chinese tires, and some "High Performance" tires from Japan will start to do this after 10,000 miles.

I had Sumitoro HTR+'s on my Alero back in the day, after 10,000 miles, they shook and vibrated like what you are saying. By 20,000 miles, they where shaking pretty bad and less than 4/32nd tread which is usually when I replace them.

A mechanic told me, "You only should buy one of these 4 brands of tire: Goodyear, Michelin, BF Goodrich, or Pirelli." My mechanic now likes Continental for all rubber products (He used a Continental timing belt set on my Volvo, which is the brand Volvo suggests anyway) I'm looking at their DWS 06 tires now for the Alero.

I don't care for Goodyear, Michelins are very expensive and they dry rot.

I know those tire brands are not cheap, but if they last twice as long as the cheaper tires, and the cheapo tires are half the price, you still save money. (one verus two mounting and balancing fees)

Look at utilization cost instead of sticker cost ;)

x2 on cheap tires. I doing burnouts also wears them unevenly. I would look into replacing them with a better quality tire.

Goodyear are. I have had good luck with Yokohama. With tires you get what you pay for regardless of the brand in my experience. I am not mechanic just my opinion.

Ive got Coopers on mine n they are great in the wet n snow. Never had any problems with them. But get the high speed version. The cheaper ones are crap compared. My neighbor had the cheaper versin n she was always spinning out when it rained or snowed.

Dunlops = Goodyear, and seem to be pretty good.
BF Goodrich = Michelin, but I don't know if they dry rot like Michelins do. They aren't as pricey as Michelins and are usually made in SC just the same.

I would think that Yokohama's should rank up there with the good ones, but they do develop the little cracks on the sidewalls like the Michelins if you park it outside.

I have had Yokohama's on the last three cars i have had at one point or another. I always seem to go back to them, I never intend to but they have always been solid tired and decent all weather as well.

And they are usually made in USA, in VA. Quite possibly the closest tire factory to my house.