Skar Audio build progress.
 

Hey everyone, it has been quite a while since I have posted something regarding my sound system. Well, I finally made some progress and decided to go with all Skar audio products.

Before the speakers and other parts go in, I wanted to make sure the car was as quiet as possible so I put 40 more square ft. of second skin damplifier on the doors, roof, rear floor and rear deck. It made a huge difference with road noise.



Since I will be running twice the power as before (4000 watts rms), decided to add more Knukonceptz 0 gauge OFC, 2 runs of green for power and 2 runs of black for ground. The wire will be connecting the front xs battery to the odyssey pc2150 in the trunk.



Here is another picture of the back when I installed all "new" panels that I got from the U-Pic day at the Ottawa Auto Wreckers. (picked up 4 door panels, c-pillars, the panels at the rear doors and the trunk plastic for $49)



The seats will be staying out since there will be a box with subs taking the whole area. Haven't decided which subs yet, but leaning towards 3 Skar DDX 15's inverted.

My trunk is a little more empty than usual. Finally hooked up the Skar Sk85.4 amplifier for the two sets of components in the front doors and kick panels (thanks guiguilandry for those).



I went back to manual windows since it's easier to work with the doors without a motor and harness in the way. The Skar SPX-65 components fit nicely in the doors, the mid in the door itself, and the tweeter in the factory position.





And finally, the last picture is of the kick panels which also have a midwoofer and tweeter installed.



Once I decide on the subwoofers and begin the box, more updates will be posted.

Lol looks good Brandon! I couldn't stand those kick panels.... that right where my left foot sits!

It's a good thing I don't put my foot there. The speakers are extremely loud and clear.

Excellent work. I have to wait til next year to upgrade my audio. Got some repairs and upgrades I want done first.

X2, great build. :thumb: I wouldn't be able to do those kick panels either, I feel like that would be in the way of clutch space, not to mention foot placement. Very appropriate for what your doing though. Cant wait to see this back seat sub setup!

Could you go over the door install? Any clearance issues? What did you use speaker wise again specifically model??

As for the kick panels not a fan of the look where the hood latch is but for extra speakers it works. What brand kicks?

@negolien - For the doors, I previously had 6 1/2 speaker adapters for the doors, i think they were from paparad17. They worked great for the infinity kappas but my new speakers have a larger mounting depth. I had to cut out the factory speaker grill and make it more round so it would fit. The crossovers are behind the door panel and everything is wired through there.

The speakers are the skar spx-65 components and the kick panels are q-logic.

Super thanks bud so once you cut out the grill that pretty much solved any clearance issues or was it that plus the adaptors?

Finally got my funds built back up after the latest updated stuff. I think I' am going to go with two 12" DC level 3's or Tantric MD's. It's a toss up between the two atm. 1800 rms is really about where I want to be so leaning towards the DC's. Not quite sure what the MD's are haven't been online at home and the sites blocked here at work for some reason lol.

I didnt actually use the adapters. The speakers are attached to the door panel itself. DC is a good choice, i haven't personally heard tantric.

Do you have an amp yet and whats your budget for the subs.

stuff
 

So they are attached to the plastic part? Did you have to cut out a more circular pattern in the door itself for the magnet? Still debating going to 6.5's or 6.75's though the DB461's do sound pretty good pumping out almost double the rated rms lol.

I just got my vacation pay and had paid off a loan for my unanticipated 3rd power window repair lol only 1 door left undone :rolleyes2: Leaves me with a little over a grand and growing. That's for an amp, subs and a proper box. Probably going to be around $600 for the subs, $300 for a nice box and about $300 for the amp. Here's s vid of some tantrics. I hear they are nice I think the MD's are 750rms. Just not sure what the price is.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jT-CxCYNGZo#t=35

As usual, I would tell you alpine type R. :lol: And yes those adapters were from me. I have some to cut a new pair when I finally get front speakers but I really like those on the panel. And yes, they would defiantly have to be cut to fit and mounted properly to the plastic panel. Unless the speakers have a massive ass end I wouldn't image you would have to modify the metal on the door.
Now lets see some speakers in the rear doors! I about did one time but never got to it on my first one. I feel like it would go very nicely in your car.

LOL yeah a lot of people like the type R's. Probably one of the most versatile mass produced subs. The dc, tantric, SQ and SA are more boutique subwoofers imo. Looking for something out of the mainstream though the SQ and DC are pretty close to mainstream now.

I'm going with type r myself. Ordering the subs this weekend. Buying some 6x9s off a buddy for $75 next week. The 5.25 for the front door the following week.

Not only their subs but cabin speakers are great. I've ran amped sets in both alero's now, love um. It also depends on what you're trying to do with your system though.

I was going to upgrade my suspension first, but I just don't want to wait for the sound system.

^Haha, I know the feeling.

Funny, I did the same thing. :haha:

same same get much more use out of the sound system.

Ordered one type r 12 inch sub, kenwood amp, stinger capacitor, and ported box yesterday. Can't wait to get em. Buying type r 6x9s off my buddy in a couple weeks. Probably buying type r 5 and a quarters that come with 1 inch tweeters that week also. Probably another kenwood amp the week after. Definitely need to get good wires. Dynamat also.

For wiring, knukonceptz, sky high are both great.

Ok thanks. I'll check them out.

Dynamats over priced try stinger expert, second skin or fatmat. I'd also toss the Cap and just make sure you have decent wire. Anything under 1k rms and you should be fine with good 0 gauge and a 0 gauge big 3. Just my opinion though not many people running caps these days.

I really like the second skin damplifier, it's easy to work with (cut and apply) without the huge mess from butyl getting stuck on everything. I wouldn't recommend knukonceptz deadener, it's extremely messy and I got some in my carpet and is very difficult to get out.

I have dynamat on my trunk lid, knukonceptz on the trunk walls and floor and second skin on my doors, roof and rear floor. Second skin is kinda expensive, so if you're on a budget I would suggest getting another brand.

Dynamat isn't bad on ebay. I use ebay for pretty much everything. Got my subwoofer for $141 brand new. Got a 1000 watt rms kenwood amp for $165. A box made with the type r in mind for $67. Dynamat is only like $70.

Rough estimate on what I would need for trunk and front doors?

The first pic in this thread is my front door, I used 6 sq ft. per front door, around 4 sq ft on each rear door and trunk about 30sq ft. In total, for full coverage around 50 sq ft total.

There's 26 in my trunk. Take a look at the Stinger expert it's good for the price dynamats too expensive considering what else is out there that's better imho.

$67 for a box isn't going to net you anything remotely suitable unless you're making it yourself but /shrug. What Kenwood did you get? I wouldn't go too cheap on everything you tend to get what you pay for in car audio.

Here is another option for deadener and it's quite cheap: http://www.b-quiet.com/extreme.html I haven't used it before but from what people tell me, it does the job.

I got the KAC9106D for the amp. Runs 1000 rms and 2000 peak. The type r runs 1000 rms and 3000 peak. Item ID number for the box is 281391052746 on ebay. I use the app so I don't have an exact link. Does it make the product better if I spend more money on it?

Looks really good. Very clean install. Can't imagine 4000w when I think my 1000w system is plenty loud. Is the new alternator gonna be able to handle the extra power draw?

Thanks. 4000rms is going to be loud, and is probably going to be the most I ever put in a car. The alternator is going to help out a lot but I'll still need battery power to help out. I have the xs up front 65aH and an oddysey pc2150 105aH battery for the back, I may need another pc2150 then I should be fine.

I'd like to upgrade my battery and alternator as well. What would you suggest? The plan is to run about 3000 rms between subs and regular speakers.

In terms of alternators, what engine do you have? Mine was made by Singer alternators, I would get the larger amperage one you can find 220A+.

For batteries: XS power, north star, oddysey or deka. Depending on your main battery, you will probably need 150-200 aH rating total. So like 2 extra Group 34 or 31. Deka's g31s are very cheap and do the job.

I have the 3400. It'll probably be more like 2400 rms. I plan on getting another type r sub at some point. The 6x9s and 5 and a quarters are 100 watts rms and 300 peak each. Nothing too crazy, but should sound pretty nice.

Picked up these Toolmaker Metalworkz battery terminals from the US on Saturday. They have 6 inputs for 1/0 gauge per terminal.

Those are intense! I was looking at them but i know there's no way I'll ever need that many runs... not to mention how well you put that many runs through the firewall lmao!

It would be difficult to fit any more runs. These terminals are so much better than the Knukonceptz terminals. Mainly because they actually stay connected to the battery.

The others were just a clamp style that kept coming loose right? I'm noticing that with mine and they won't even tighten to the kinetik battery terminals....

Exactly. I would tighten it as much as possible, and it was still loose. The terminal actually fell off once when I was driving.

Went ahead and got the 2 Tantric MD 12's and a SQ Q1-2200D..now just gotta bank another 500 or so for a Singer :<(... Never ending money pits. Only a $30 difference between the 270 and the 320 so going big to build in some overhead in case I want to upgrade YET AGAIN!! lol.