Cam carrier gaskets
 

Got some secret cams on the way. I am going to replace the cam carrier gaskets.

On rock auto I see three different types. Which ones last the longest? I see a brand called DJ engine parts that includes all gaskets needed when you take the cam housing apart. Are these any good? Its only $10 but I dont wanna tear it apart again if they leak and Im more than happy to spend money on good gaskets that wont leak again.

Are there any good gaskets? I assume Fel Pro is pretty good right?

Fel Pro works fine, I usually get mine at AutoZone.

do they leak eventually like stock?

I don't know, lately my head has been off too often to know haha. But "eventually" leaking for me was at 180,000 miles on my stock engine.. I really wouldn't worry much about it.

Well got the fel pros on order with secret cams on the way. Next warm day its all goin in :D

Tips from the pros????

How long will it take on average?

Anything to watch out for?

Look through any of my head gasket threads for pictures of most steps to familiarize yourself with what you'll see as you unbolt things.

Use an oil paint marker to put two marks on the timing chain and crank/cam sprockets at each of those locations. When you put the chain back on it makes it significantly easier to properly have everything in time. You'll be surprised at how you might've put it on without the marks; you can experiment with lining it up one chain link over on the crank and see how it is very possible to accidentally time it wrong.

Install the tensioner itself. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE TINY BOLTS THAT HOLD IT TO THE HOUSING. I have. Then chain goes on the exhaust sprocket first, then the intake, while you're holding the intake a little bit rearward with a socket wrench. When you release, your wrench, there should be some tension in the chain between the cam sprockets. Then all you do is wrap it around the crank teeth and loosely let it rest under the water pump sprocket, and slide on the tensioner shoe (will probably be somewhat hard to do). Then BE SURE TO RELEASE THE TENSIONER with a screwdriver so it pushes on the shoe against the chain. Or else.

Get a piece of wood to use to jack up the engine while you remove the passenger side engine mount.

Use this guide for any technical information on how to disassemble/reassemble the stuff you're touching.

It'll take a while... I'd rather go slow and be sure everything is bolted down nice and proper and everything was done than speed through it and miss something. Those damn 10mm bolts holding the timing cover on take forever to undo.

And don't forget the 4 bolts holding the timing cover housing to the block, on the bottom of the housing..

Sweet! Thanks for the info C2!

I plan on waiting for a warm Saturday and I'll start unbolting the easy stuff Friday night when I get home from work and start early sat morning. Hopefully have it done by night fall.

Now, another question about lifters...

I have read some places that you have to replace the lifters when you swap cams. However I have only read that for brand new cams that have not been broken in. Since they are used cams, how strongly recommended is it to replace the lifters?

How would a lifter go bad in the first place, other than getting clogged up on the inside or ticking badly? All they do is push the valve down when the cam pushes it down correct?

I don't think it is too critical. I used all new lifters, but with used cams when the engine was built the first time... and I didn't do really anything special to break in the cams/lifters together and there's no abnormal or excessive wear on either.

I think there's some sort of possibility of a cam's lobe to be worn down so it doesn't open the valve as far as it should. Or the lifter surface to be worn down such that it's not opening like it should, causing lifter tick/tap...

only issue i had when doing my secret cam swap was getting the crank pulley bolt loose. air tools or a big breaker bar will probly be needed. i had some trouble reinstalling the exhaust cam tower cover once the cam was in, cuz the gasket on the timing chain side kept moving around, and bolt holes wouldnt line up. if nothing is seized up, and youre fairly mechanically inclined, i dont see it taking more than an afternoon. at least thats what i thought when i did mine,and th ecar ended up sitting for a week and a half cuz i never had the time or help. if you have someone helping you, that wud cut down the time too. especially helpful when reinstalling the chain.

http://www.aleromod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34685

that was my experience doing it. maybe itll give you some things to look out for.

A wrench through the crank pulley, against the block.

Pipe over a 1/2" socket wrench with a 1-1/16" socket. Easy.
Having someone help hold the chain where it should be is extremely helpful. The last time I did it was alone though.

Yeah I figured me and my dad would tackle it. We have air tools. But im not sure about throwing cams in it now with the knock it has. Such a shame too cause the cams are sitting here looking at me all pretty and everything lllol

Ok the crank pulley......impact wrench equals no problem.

The lifter you can use the ones in your motor. However...... I recommend putting the lifters back in the exact location they came out. Also check the lifter face (side that contacts cams) for pits or any unusual wear.

Use the fel-pro gasket kit It works great. I did mine like 6-7 years ago and if you seen pics there is no leakage.

You can do the paint marker method or get 2 dowel pins or 2 punches that fit the pin holes on gears and timing chain housing. If you turn the motor over to line up the center punch mark on crank gear to line up with the mark on the housing and it is at TDC then the holes for the cam gears and housing hole line up and slide pins in and you have timing set.

Thanks for the info everybody!

More than likely I'll go ahead with the cam swap and see what happens with the internals of the engine.

2 of the 4 bolts that hold the idi cover on fit perfectly in the holes on the cam gears to hold them in place. just fyi, so you dont go buy 2 bolts just for that.