Won't Start
 

Its been acting like the battery was dying. I figured it was a problem with the accessory alt wire I used to have on there. I replaced that wire, and was still having starting issues.


Soo NOW.. it just won't start. All the fuses are intact(underhood fuse box). The battery is fully charged. (everything kicks on the way it should, except the headlights which are powered from a relay, from the main headlight power)

Radio works, interior lights work, parking lights work...etc. All seems fine. When I turn the ignition, everything cuts out and it doesn't even attempt to turn over. Just sits there.

Vid.
http://www.facebook.com/video/video....18858743&saved
(top gauge is Volts... it doesn't move at ALL during the whole thing. Stays at 12.1V)

The starter has continuity to the battery. And the battery to the main fuse box. As well as from the alt to the battery (both routes)

The grounds on the battery also check out ok.

YOUR ALIVE?? :lol:

so...
check that you have B+ to the starter and also switched power to the starter? (little wire)

if you do then you need a starter.

Sounds like battery to me, but you said charge is okay. Usually, not sure if always, if it is something fuel related or ignition related, the car will crank, but it will not start. If it is the battery though, the car will not even crank. Maybe it could be something with the security system. I don't know, I am just guessing.

so i'm checking the little wire on the starter for... 12v power? and is this constant or only when cranking?


Yellow top, deep cycle.. its never gone dead once. And I just recently threw a charger on it. I'm thinking my stereo turned up puts a pretty decent draw on it, and I'd notice lights dimming if it was the problem.

FYI... its the 3400.

I have 12V to the little bolt on the starter.

oook. I have 12V to the coil packs at when the ignition is keyed. (pink wire)

I also have good resistance between the coil pack towers....


When the ignition is keyed, I heard the relay click, and some gurgling in/around the TB area. (can't determine where its coming from specifically.)

If it is not the battery, and the car does not crank at all, it could also be the starter. I don't really know how to check the starter though.

I just yanked the battery to have it tested. Just to eliminate another possible problem.

If it's the starter, take a small hammer, and tap the starter. Just tap it don't beat the eff out of it :lol: Plus it's a tight fit anyway so it's not like your going to have swinging room. (or could be tight on mine since I have headers IDK :huh:)

Then try to start the car, you may have to do this a few times. My starter went, I tapped it a little bit and it tried to start but only for a nanosecond, tapped it again and tried with a no go, about 3 times, on the third time, it fired right up.

This "fix" will last a little while, until you can get a starter. Mine lasted about 2 months with no problems, then I replaced it. After that, IDK, it was in starter heaven :lol:

New starter fixed everything. After talking to the seasoned guy at a local parts place (while having my battery tested) he pointed out that I SHOULD NOT HAVE had 12V on the B+, with the car off. I know for a fact I did (since I was the only one in the garage... can't test and turn the key at the same time) I got a new starter, installed. Running great again.

:glare:

Thanks all.

Welcome back !

when did he leave?

a few months ago.

and welcome back

i find that kind of false info. the B+ terminal at the stater (big wire from you batter) should ALWAYS have B+. the litte wire (switched ignition) should only have 12V with key in cranked positin. when testing starters it pretty easy for the most part unless you have one of them curve balls sent at ya. check for 12vs at big wire and/or use a test light. test the same at the little wire but make sure you only have power durring crank. then if you do and the car doesnt turn over. bam you need a starter.