pros - corner like a pro
you really feel the road

cons - don't do it in winter - makes it feel you are on bald tires
very twitchy
you really feel the road

what do u mean? "agressive alignment"

You'll be buying tires very often. Looks dumb.

sorry not technical but when your wheels are adjusted bout an inch or maybe slightly less, further way from normal at the base (angled) . If someone could elaborate please do - had it for about a week - will never do it again

Yea, that's negative camber. It will definitely help in the turns, but like I said, you'll be buying lots of tires if you run with it all the time.

General rules for alignments on street vehicles:

1. No more than 1 degree of negative camber

2. No more than 1/8" toe out in front

3. No more than 1/16" toe in out back (never run toe out in back....you will spin and crash).

That said, I run -1 degree of camber in front, -0.6 of camber out back, .025" of toe out in front, and .015" of toe in out back. Caster is not adjustable on these cars. I love how my car handles, and tire wear (from normal driving) isn't bad at all........FYI, all of my alignment specs are within factory alignment ranges.

hahaha, negative camber. The only ones who actually mess with camber are drifters well and a few other circut drivers, and they go through tires like no other. For normal weekend draggers like us, its not worth the money for tires all the time.

and people who have lowering springs, and do any kind of road racing, or those who just want there car in proper alignment. Do you know what you are typing about or are you just misunderstanding another "friend"?

"Aggressive alignment"... do you mean camber adjustments or toe adjustments?

You must mean camber because other than mfuller just now, I've never heard of anybody adjusting the toe angle on these cars... And with 1 degree of negative camber, your tire wear should still be pretty acceptable.

Fuller, I thought toe adjustment was measured in degrees, not inches? So you must mean 1/4 degree of toe out? BTW, how drastic of a change does that give to steering turn-in?

My alignment sheet specifically lists inches as the unit of measure for toe adjustments, and I've always understood toe in/out to be measured in inches. It's not a huge difference (because too much toe out will really scrub your tires away to nothing in no time), but I could tell the differerence in turn in.....I ran zero toe up front once, and turn-in seemed sluggish (this was on Potenza S-03 tires, which otherwise have great turn-in).

Interesting... is it hard to adjust toe changes on the alero?

Also, what size are your anti-roll bars front/rear? (Just want to get a feel for what other people have been doing) And how does the car feel now on throttle/off throttle and while braking in turns? I guess my ideal would be as close to neutral steering as possible off-throttle, with oversteer when trail braking and minimal understeer on-throttle.

I couldn't say how hard it is to adjust toe, since I leave it all to the pros at the alignment shop.

I have PFYC/Speedbuilt/Next Level upsized anti-roll bars front and rear....28.6mm in front and 22.2mm out back....both are soild bars. Both bars come with polyurethane midpoint bushings, which I use. I also have Energy Suspension endlinks on the front bar.

The car is extremely neutral. Depending on how you set the car up, you can dial in understeer or oversteer pretty much at will. I try not to trail-brake because the car will oversteer then, and it wastes my back tires. Understeer at WOT is very minimal.

Toe is adjusted through your tie rods. I'd just learned that in my Automotive tech class. Toe is the last thing to adjust in an alignment cuz caster and camber affects the toe setting. Toe is measured in Inches and caster/camber is measure in degrees.

Btw Matt- whats the model number for the energy suspension endlink in the front? And do have have the greasible ES bushing in the middle for the front? Thanks bro.

For the endlinks, I ordered the set with the shortest spacer - 9.8122, which uses a 1" spacer. For my particular application, I needed to trim off a bit more to get the swaybar to sit parallel to the lower control arm.

I had ES greaseable midpoint bushings, but I just couldn't get them to fit perfectly.....so I stuck in the non-greaseable ones that came with the bar and re-used the stock brackets. Sure, they make a bit of noise, but at least they fit right....

how would you know what energy suspension midpoint for the front i know i have the 24mm bar but there are a ton 24mm for energy suspension because they have different bracket sizes?

I think hes talking about the hella flush/stance craze

If so just get a low offset wheels for the front and a zero offset for the rear. roll your fenders and strech a 155 over your 9 inch wheel


Somthing like this



After I get my new dd my alero is going to get slammed and stanced on some diamond racing steelies

Just trial and error.
I kinda doubt that any off-the-shelf ES midpoint bushings will fit in the factory brackets, so you may need to modify the ES brackets to fit in the front subframe (as I did years ago).