Car dead and will not turn over--Resolved Security Issue
 

The GF's 2002 V6 has decided to not start. She was in a line up and shut the car off, and when she went to move, it did not do anything. The guages light up and it appears the battery is strong, but no starter. The tach swings around and goes back to zero, which my Alero does not do, but nothing else is out of the ordinary. It had no symptoms of any issues before this happened, just out of the blue. I am glad she was not out in the country or in the boonies when this happened. I was at work but got a chance to see it the next day, since she had it towed to a shop nearby.

I glanced at fuses, and saw nothing, the battery seems strong, I wiggled harnesses, cables, and the remote start hood switch, but no dice. I jammed the gear shift up to Park and down to Netrual, and it did not make a diff.

I have a six day work week so I can not look at it, so I guess the garage will have to fix it. Grrrr.

Any ideas on what I keep an eye on, so the garage does not gouge her?

EDIT: CHANGE TITLE TO RESOLVED

security light on? put the key into the ON position and let it sit for 11 minutes. turn key back to off, then start it up.

security light, the car would at least crank....hmmm maybe dead starter? what do you mena "line up"?

usually it will turn over if it's the security issue. It just won't run. If it's not turning over, it sounds like maybe the ignition switch could be bad, or you are loosing power somewhere.

Possibly 2 causes. no crank (aka no starter tick) means either the starter solenoid failed, or the ignition switch (electrical portion behind the cylinder ) failed. A simple test using a test light will tell which failed. Test the leads at the starter during a cranking position to see if light lit up. If test light does not light up, check the 60 amp fuse first ($15.00 @ AZ) if fuse is good, you might have to puke up a $150 or so to change the switch. You can also apply direct power to the starter to comfirm if starter is dead or not. Be careful if apply power to starter attached to engine.

possibly the fuel pump. all of those symptoms happened to me a couple years back when the pump shorted out. I tried starting it back up, but because it didn't get fuel, it couldn't get started. but if it's not turning over at all...yikes...hopefully it's just an electrical issue and nothing ceased up.

check all that cheap shit first (you did a lot, but there's still more...like spark plugs, etc. if you have a multimeter, check for continuity on everything you can reach.

kneel down beside the car while she turns on the key and listen for the fuel pump. but even if that is bad it should crank. does it click when you turn the key? if it does your starter might be bad. but if it doesn't, check power to the solinoid (sp?). if there is power there that is probably bad.

When my sercurity light comes on it doesn't crank at all, no clicks, no nothing. just a flashing sercurity light.

If I leave the ignition in the "ON" position, wait a while(usually 10min) and if the flashing sercurity light is off, turn the ignition off and try to start.

works every time. ...so far;)

^ all the security light does for me is disable the fuel pump. it still cranks, it just can't start.

Thanks for the input, I really appreciate the tips. Some I knew about but the security one was a new one on me, I forgot about the fuel pump too, so I will see if that will help. It is at the shop but they can't get to it until later. Unless I hotwire it first! :)

Hmm the garage just phoned and it is the security system. They scanned it and it is a security code. They want to replace the ignition system, reprogram the system, blah blah and charge about 600 dollars all in. That sounds a little expensive.

Can't I just reset it with my cheapo code scanner, and drive it away?

Try this:

1. Turn ON the igniton, with the engine OFF.
2. Attempt to start the engine, then release the key to ON (vehicle will not start).
3. Observe the SECURITY telltale, it will be flashing. After approximately 10 minutes the telltale will turn OFF.
4. Turn OFF the ignition, and wait 5 seconds.
5. Repeat steps 1 through 4 two more times for a total of 3 cycles/30 minutes. The vehicle is now ready to relearn the PASSlock Sensor Data Code and/or passwords, on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK.

IMPORTANT: The vehicle learns the PASSlock Sensor Data Code and/or password on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. You MUST turn the ignition OFF before attempting to start the vehicle.

6. Start the engine. The vehicle has now learned the PASSlock Sensor Data Code and/or password.
7. With a scan tool, clear any DTCs if needed. History DTCs will clear themselves after 100 ignition cycles.

Thanks for the tips, I really appreciate it! I went to the auto repair shop, to do a meet and greet with the service manager on my lunch time. I assumed they tried the key off/on thing, but found they retrieved the code only via the computer. I told them to do the key thing, and voila, it started! He handed me the keys and made me pay for the code scan only. Which was cool since they spend another 15 minutes on the car.

The next time it acts wonky, I will try freeze12's advice.

Once again ALEROMOD saves a newb about 500 dollars! WoooOOOT!

Thanks again!

The nice thing about the code scan is that it also told me which front wheel assembly is wonky, so I can ebay a new hub and get the frickin thing back on the road.

i win

We've heard bad things about the ebay hubs. i'd get one from a local part store.

fail.

lol @ "wonky" I haven't heard that in a loooooong time. I'm glad you figured it out! :thumb:

Hmm, yeah, I read some of those posts. Mebbe I will hit Napa or Partsource, or whatever they call it.

Glad You got it fixed Yourself & saved You ton's of cash!!!Now go buy Yourself a well deserved Beer:drunk: