Paint Qs
 

My wiper arms are rusting and i have a few spots on the car with rust.

Now... I know bdy will tell me the "right" way to do this... but i'm looking for the "good enough" way.

1)For the wiper arms: Sand the rust off. Primer. Paint. ??

Also, how do i get the wiper fluid tubes off, so i can remove the arms?

2)The body panels that have some rust.. One is the inside edge of the driver's rear tire well. The paint chipped right off due to underlying rust. Another spot where the paint is cracked, and you can feel rust under it, but it hasn't broken through, and the inner seam of the door (between the front 1/4 panel and the door) is rusted.

For the body panels, I was going to use the POR-15 system. I need to sand first, but then just por 15 and paint? Or is there steps in between like primer/adhesion promoter?

I don't have the money to have it professionally done, nor do i care if the paint doesn't match perfectly. I'll assume I'm going to be in another accident eventually... I'll let them paint the car then. :lol:


....also... por-15 or rust bullet? Both seem to be the same, but por-15 requires prep, rust bullet doesn't.

any type of rust surface or if its goes through, after any type of repair the metal needs to have some sort of corrsion resistant product or the rust will come right back in a few months

the wiper arms the washer nozzle is just cliped on the arm, so gently remove with a small falt head screw driver, if you break the nozzle you have to replace, obviously
if its just surface rust on the arms sand it with 180, then 240, then scuff the arm with a red scuff pad, me personally i would por-15 the arms, no need for a etch prime or sealer to prevent rust

more.....................

the chip on the 1/4 that has surface rust, the right way would be to grind using a 3m black coated wheel these wheels dont warp the metal its just is just to clean and prep the metal, if the metal has not pitted due to rust, then we just feather the area with 180 then 240, then we apply the primer

ppg`s ncp 271 primer is corrosin resistant and water proof and is oem recomended for shops to use, its the same stuff on my alero right now, and then you know remove everything, if we have to blend the door for blending color, but thats not what ya need or want to do

now if its just a small chip that is starting to rust out, take the 180 you bought for the wiper arms, and lightly sand the chip, go to the local hobby store and buy some small brushes<very cheap

now take the por-15 and touch up the rust, por-15 has to dry 24hours for paint to be applied over, trust me on that i found out the hard way when i rushed this product and watched base coat just fish eye right off

if you can find the gm touch up paint in the touch up bottle, just use that and touch up the affected area, after 24 hours lightly wet sand with 1500, then touch up some more, if it looks decent then your good

as long as the metal has a corrosion resistant product like por-15, or etch primer, or a sealer it wont rust, or it will last a year or two

and the last repsonse..........

chris we dont fix and or repaint entire cars for the hell of it we dont work for free, we fix only what the insurance company tells us to fix, if you want more damage fixed or the whole side repainted the rest of the difference is up to you, not your insurance company

I know u don't paint the whole car for free... that was more of a joke.

When I was hit on the passanger side, I'm not sure if they just pulled the dent out, or used a crappy door, but its rusting in 3 spots, and the other door isn't. And my rear 1/4s have never been repaired... so I figure there isn't too much on my car left that hasn't been painted... if I'm gonna get tagged, why not hope its in one of the bad spots. Lol


Thanks for the info, ill be sure to but it to good use this summer. And did u say use primer, then por-15... or was the primer info just for if its a bigger affected area?


as for the 3m black wheel... what is that?
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...R J5GMFSMV0gl
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...R J5GMFSMV0gl
??

correct the fist link but the discs with the roloc end so it goes into your die grinder, the 2nd link is used to grind welds, i wouldnt use that one your car
the primer was just a explination of corrosion resistant products
the etch primer comes in rattle can form, but there is no need for that because por-15 doesnt need anything beneath it

I think i'll have to do this soon too.

I plan on getting a Front End Cover so I can cover up how bad I screw it up.

Bdy, If the metal is a little pitted, Could I just get bondo and sand it down to fill it out?

if its not completely sealed, or if theres still some rust, the metal under the bondo will probly rust again, and pop the bondo out. i got some of this to use on the few spots that have bubbly rust showing through.

I know mine aren't... but the g/f's truck might have it.

If its rusted through..... I'm guessing thats gotta be ground out (or grinded?) and have new metal welded in?

yes correct, if there is a hole then we cut out old metal and fab in and replace new metal, very costly and time consuming

thats why i sadi to use the roloc wheels, they dont warp the metal and cleans real good, but again ill say bondo of today has come along way then 5yrs ago, it is water proff, corrosion resistant, sands faster and easier for us

but, for just touching up, just touch up the area with the por 15, then the base but if you want ti completely fixed then you will pay allot to have it fixed and never see rust again

most shops dont warratny rust for the fact that no matter what we do it in some way comes back, not always but in some cases it does,

of course. As little as i know about bodywork, even i'd consider a rust warranty laughable. (maybe its also due to enviroment)

Just remember to tape off sections that you don't want to overspray on!