Belt hitting tensioner?
 

About a month ago i replaced the alternator on my alero. the other day i was doing a coolant flush and noticed the belt was rubbing against the tesnioner. On friday, I replaced the tensioner at school (I go to Lincoln Tech) and it took alot of re-adjustments to the tensioner, but it was literally only a mm. away from hitting the tensioner. Today, I noticed that it is rubbing against it again. Im 99.99 percent sure its the same size alternator, so I dont know what to do next. Im thinking to replace the belt because it might just be stretched out, but it has good thread left on it. Should I just get a bigger alternator since im gonna put HID's on my headlights and fog lights?

Someone help me out Ill get pics up in a bit. :(

[IMG]http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.185622464789779.42518.100000260819250&type= 3#!/photo.php?fbid=299712703380754&set=a.1856224647897 79.42518.100000260819250&type=3&theater

...thats what it looks like...

[/IMG]


this is the diagram from AllData and its supposed to be spaced out from the tensioner not rubbing against it. My friends uncle has an alero and he has a good .5" to 1" of space between the belt and the tensioner, berfore it goes down on the tensioner pulley

A high output alt will have a smaller pully on it so you're have to get a small belt for that to. They run 250-350 for a good one typically. But I have high and low beam hids with my system wich has all speakers amped and then various other lighting throughout the car and my stock alt is still running fine. I'd say try out new belt for now. What engin do you have?

Ohh I thought you need a higher output alternator. Ill give the new belt a try. Its what i was thinking in the first place but i wasnt sure. Thanks :coolio:

I have this problem with my Escort as well (almost). There is like 1mm gap though. The problem is that all (even Motorcraft) belt tensioners have a smaller diameter wheel on them. And another thing is that they also downsized the alternator pulley after a certain year too (without changing anything else), and of course, the replacement part has the smaller pulley, no matter what year car you have. That and the parts lookup show quite a range for the appropriate belt. None of the new parts say anything about this part change will cause you to need a belt that's a different size.

Are you confused yet? It took a lot of study for me to figure this out, but if you use the appropriate company belt interchange, I figured out how to ask for a belt that's 1/4 inch shorter than what it had originally to get the right size.

For the belt to rub the tensioner on this, it would have to be too short. Or the alternator pulley is a bigger diameter, or positioned higher than stock. In any case, a longer belt will allow the tensioner pulley to swing out further and provide more clearance. Also, be sure the belt hasn't slipped out of position on any of the other pulleys...that can cause it to act like a shortened belt too, but you'd probably notice unusual wear on the belt.

I took off the belt when i put the new tensioner on and realligned it with all the pulleys and at first i had like a .5mm gap, you couldnt see it but if you pushed the belt against the tensioner you could feel it. But today im putting on a newer tensioner and a new belt and see where it takes me

mechman altenators make an altenator for the 3400 alero it is 449 bucks but it is totally work it. email this guy if you have any questions. eric@mechman.com

That Alldata pic is pretty funny actually. Any of you tried to change a 3400 belt with that tool? I have to use a belt removal tool which is a "low profile" tool. Without lifting the engine, that breaker bar is impossible to use on mine.

i use a 3/8 ratchet with a long handle. or a cheater bar at least. didnt have any problems.

but theres no way to chage the belt witout removing te egie mount...right?

right

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-59000-Ra.../dp/B0019CQL2E


Lisle 59000 Ratcheting Serpentine Belt Tool




I got it to do the LIM job on my car. I end up using it for lots of things where I don't have much space and a long leverarm is useful.

If your having issues with HID's dimming, and have a so-so or higher system in your car, you don't necessarily need a HO alternator, or even an upgraded battery. I just did a BIG 3 upgrade and I noticed drastic improvements in power consumption, and I'm running stock alt and battery.

big 3?

It's an electrical upgrade since your factory wiring is only meant to handle a certain load. Basically what you do is run a real heavy gauge (most use 1/0) and run:

Alternator + to Battery +
Engine ground to Battery - or to solid body ground
Battery - to a SOLID ground on the body (most grind away the paint on the strut tower and use the closest bolt to tighten it down)

Im going to be doing this one too. Milzy's got the battery relocate kit all in one for this.