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Originally Posted by viciousmalibu
dude, um an oem alternator WILL NOT handle that kind of charging capacity, i have a165 amp alternator and it can barely handle 13 neons, and a2000W amp. you would have to have like a 250 amp alternator, and by the time you run a power wire all the way to it from the trunk, it's not worth it, most people i have done this for, or have had it done, use trickle chargers to charge their second battery, but they also have stiffening caps that help reduce usage... only have to charge it like once amonth... i am just making a point, is it your main goal to make people look stupid, or am i not catching something in these recurring posts???
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Oh boy.....
You should stop listening to the people that do NOT know about automotive electrical.
I have used secondary and system dedicated batteries, all connected to the OEM alternator, sometimes an upgraded alternator was used, but no where near the 250 amps you suggest. Usually a max of about 180 amps, since in MOST cars anything with a higher rating usually drops the bottome end off considerably, almost to the point of no idle charge.
In these arays of batteries that I have ran, they have been anywhere from a dual battery set-up (a single battery up front with a single system battery) to MULTIPLE batteries, as many as 7 in total IIRC, that would be a single under the hood and 6 system dedicated batteries, and in these systems we used the OEM alternators usually. The alternator was used as more a charger and the systems were only designed to burp anyway, but we NEVER used this idea of not connecting the system to the car.
Your problem with the OEM alternator is probably not with the fact that the alternator is a particular size, it probably has a low bottom end charge, or more likely you have not installed what many people refer to as the "Big 3 Upgrade", meaning increasing the size of charge lead from teh alternator to teh battery, amd the grounds between the battery and the engine and chassis. No matter how big of an alternator you use with the OEM 10 AWG wire, it will not charge when the current exceeds the capbilities of the wire that is attempting to carry that same current.
I've been playing this car audio game for almost 2 decades now, and been around cars themselves for almost 3 decades, I've seen many ideas come and go, and did way more of my own testing than anyone realizes. I know a thing or two about the automotive electrical system.
I also know that not many people think about all the details that go into making the componets they already have better, or perform better, but making a few simple changes.