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Old 06-11-2004, 04:14 PM   #5
dadirtybulldog
 
Posts: n/a
this is how i clean my engine....
this is from edmunds.com...
<<<<<<<<<First, if you've already detailed the exterior of your vehicle, cover all waxed surfaces with either butcher paper or moving pads. Degreasers and engine cleaners will strip your fresh finish off faster than a bug splatting against a windshield at 70 mph.

Second, be sure to have a good stock of old bath towels on hand to help absorb the excess water and dry the engine compartment when you're done. Since the towels will be in contact with various oils and possibly corrosive materials, be sure to throw out the towels after you are finished.

Before you start the cleaning process, take a little time to evaluate the condition of your engine bay. Is it covered mostly in road grime, or is there a lot of built-up grease and oil? Are the battery terminals encrusted in corrosion? Depending on how long it's been since you've cleaned your engine and the buildup of grease and grime, you may be able to use a household cleaner (such as Simple Green) or, if the engine hasn't been cleaned in 50,000 miles, you might consider using a heavy-duty, engine-specific cleaner such as Radiator Specialty Company's Gunk or Meguiar's All-Purpose Cleaner.

If your engine is covered in grease, you may want to rent a steam cleaner. A steam cleaner is basically a high-pressure water pump, which heats incoming water in a tank and is usually heated by a kerosene or diesel heater. Just like hot water to your dinner dishes, heated pressure washers literally "melt" the grime right off the engine. The downside is that these units can be quite cumbersome and the high pressures (up to 4,000 PSI) can damage old rubber and plastic parts. When in doubt, consult with a professional detailer.

First off, we need to protect water-sensitive electronics and air intake by covering them with plastic. Using one-quart food storage bags, split the bags in half with a pair of scissors, creating a "hood." Place this over any open air elements, alternator, distributor and coil or coil packs. Cover the fenders and windshield with your butcher paper, using either low-tack masking tape or blue painter's tape.

Next, you should check your battery for corrosion at the terminals. If the battery terminals are covered with a white, crusty, coating, sprinkle the battery terminal with baking soda and water and brush the corrosion away gently with an old toothbrush. Since the corrosion is acidic, be sure to brush the corrosion away from you. Rinse with water and repeat if additional corrosion is still present.

Now we're ready to get rid of the grime. If you've determined that the engine just needs a light cleaning, mix a ratio of 1:1 of either Simple Green or Meguiar's All Purpose Cleaner in a spray bottle. If you're worried about carpal tunnel syndrome, pour the solution into a pressurized garden sprayer (that is either new or has been thoroughly washed and rinsed with bleach).

Spray the engine and compartment liberally with the solution and allow it to sit for a couple of minutes. After the cleaner has had a chance to soak into the grease and grime, use an old toothbrush or a small scrub brush to loosen the goop. Be careful around vacuum lines and electric connections, as you don't want to disconnect anything accidentally.

Using a garden hose with a spray attachment, rinse off the engine and components. If additional grime remains, repeat the process, or use an engine-specific cleaner (like RSC's Gunk), which is formulated to loosen and break down the grease molecules. Once the engine and compartment is clean, take the old bath towels and dry off as much of the engine and compartment components as possible.>>>>>>>>>>>>
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