View Single Post
Old 07-18-2013, 05:13 AM   #16
Cliff8928
Moderator
 
Cliff8928's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Long Grove, IL
Posts: 5,002
Cliff8928 is on a distinguished road
Send a message via ICQ to Cliff8928 Send a message via AIM to Cliff8928
Quote:
Originally Posted by 03gxeco View Post
damn. i can't afford to take it to a mechanic that has A/C know how. they charge an arm and two legs to fix ac related problems here.

You don't necessarily need a mechanic.. You need a good set of manifold gauges and the know-how of a/c systems. If you can grasp the concept of how a/c works, it's not that hard at all.

Compressor generates pressure in the high (discharge) line, approx. 190-350 psi depending on temperature. HOT refrigerant flows through the condenser in front of the radiator turning from vapor to liquid.Next the orifice tube is the point where high pressure becomes low pressure, 22-55 depending on temperature. The expansion / drop in pressure is what makes it cold. (like the propane tank on a grill). COLD refrigerant travels to the evaporator core where it turns from liquid back to vapor in the dash. Next, the refrigerant flows to the accumulator/receiver/drier where it is assured that the refrigerant is vapor so liquid doesn't go to the compressor. There is a desiccant inside that will absorb any moisture, like those silica gel packets you get in stuff. The compressor draws refrigerant vapor from the receiver/drier and the cycle starts over again.

basically the idea is to have the largest difference between your high side and low side pressures while maintaining good flow. Blockages or other anomalies would result in funky pressure readings, hence the manifold gauges.
__________________
Cliff Scott
2004 Alero GX w/sport pkg - Sold, living somewhere in WI now.
2011 Saab 9-5 Turbo4 M6
2004 Corvette Convertible M6
1994 Chevy Beretta - Quad4/M5
Cliff8928 is offline   Reply With Quote