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12-31-2003, 10:06 PM

#1: Don't just start replacing hubs willy-nilly, you've got a 1 in 4 chance of getting it right. Do what 3.4Alero said, ask your dealer to scan it for you. Also, as a mechanic, I had a lot of those codes just turn out to be wiring problems, one got pinched or worn through somewhere- it's amazing what a little wiring shrink tubing will do to fix that.

#2: If you do replace the hub yourself, be sure to route the wires EXACTLY as the old one was- if you do it wrong and pull out the wires from the hub when you move the car (Yes, I've done this- ONLY ONCE!) you'll be buying another one, and it would have been cheaper to have the dealer do it. Also, if you're detaching the tie rod end from the knuckle to do this (which lets you move the knuckle freely and makes it a LOT easier) be sure to put downward pressure on top of the tie rod end while you retorque the nut, otherwise the joint inside will just spin. See "how to" topic on tie rod ends.

#3: Be aware, not all hubs are factory fit! If you get one from Autozone, you usually get the exact fit, but Pep Boys has been known to give you a universal GM type, which sometimes doesn't even have the sensor inside. Completely defeats the purpose of the project, ya know?

#4: Like 3.4Alero said here, get a hub puller. Hammering on the axle can mushroom the end, meaning A.) you're not getting it out of the hub without a grinder and a new one, and B.) The nut won't go back on if you CAN get it out.
If you have to hammer on it, put the nut back on the end until it is flush with the end of the axle. This will keep you from mushrooming the tip. Or you can use a block of wood between the hammer and the axle- use a dead blow hammer (if you have one) directly on the axle, and it won't mushroom it either (although it will take a bit longer).

12-31-2003, 10:06 PM	#5
Johnnyangel Posts: n/a	#1: Don't just start replacing hubs willy-nilly, you've got a 1 in 4 chance of getting it right. Do what 3.4Alero said, ask your dealer to scan it for you. Also, as a mechanic, I had a lot of those codes just turn out to be wiring problems, one got pinched or worn through somewhere- it's amazing what a little wiring shrink tubing will do to fix that. #2: If you do replace the hub yourself, be sure to route the wires EXACTLY as the old one was- if you do it wrong and pull out the wires from the hub when you move the car (Yes, I've done this- ONLY ONCE!) you'll be buying another one, and it would have been cheaper to have the dealer do it. Also, if you're detaching the tie rod end from the knuckle to do this (which lets you move the knuckle freely and makes it a LOT easier) be sure to put downward pressure on top of the tie rod end while you retorque the nut, otherwise the joint inside will just spin. See "how to" topic on tie rod ends. #3: Be aware, not all hubs are factory fit! If you get one from Autozone, you usually get the exact fit, but Pep Boys has been known to give you a universal GM type, which sometimes doesn't even have the sensor inside. Completely defeats the purpose of the project, ya know? #4: Like 3.4Alero said here, get a hub puller. Hammering on the axle can mushroom the end, meaning A.) you're not getting it out of the hub without a grinder and a new one, and B.) The nut won't go back on if you CAN get it out. If you have to hammer on it, put the nut back on the end until it is flush with the end of the axle. This will keep you from mushrooming the tip. Or you can use a block of wood between the hammer and the axle- use a dead blow hammer (if you have one) directly on the axle, and it won't mushroom it either (although it will take a bit longer).