[sburke]

Here is the how to for doing the 2.3 oil pump conversion, so that hopefully all those who search from hereon will find something solid.
The how to comes from Mantapart (thanks Tim) and it seems to work.

Parts Needed

2.3L Pump:
Crank Gear for the pump:
Windage Tray: 22536409
Baffle Stud: 22542521 x2
Baffle Bolt: 22540299 x2
Oil Pick Assembly: 22539133
Brace: 24570677
Bolt To Screen: 11516802 x2
Nut For Brace: 22535081 x2
Bolt Flange Head: 11516061 x2
Oil Pump Bolts To Block: 14050422 x2
Locator Pins For Pump: 22531530 x2



2.4 TC Crankshaft Modifications (Replacing the oil pump drive gears)

The 2.4L crank drive gear must be carefully heated and pressed or tapped off the crank. Be careful not to damage the crank surfaces or apply a lot of heat to the crank. The new oil pump drive gear should be heated and pressed back onto the crank. Use a brass hammer only if needed so you do not damage the teeth.

2.4L TC Block Modifications (These need to be done by a qualified machinist)

The oil passages to the pump must be re-machined to match the 2.3L pump. This operation must be done with the engine apart since it will require thorough cleaning when finished. Make a template from the right side of the oil pump that includes the bolt holes, oil passage and dowel pin holes. Lay it over the bolt hole on the block and carefully center and indicate the large oil hole center. This hole must be started and then drilled at an angle to intersect the horizontal oil passage that runs below it on the block. If you look from the back side of the block you will see where the passage pipe plug comes out. Draw a line on center with it and the hole center punch you have indicated and that is the angle the hole must be drilled. Drill the hole small and then increase drill sizes up to 9/16”. You will break through the casting and then drill into the oil passage casting. Make sure the final drill with the 9/16” bit is done slowly and smoothly, since you have to install the 2”x9/16” sleeve afterwards. Cool the sleeve and coat it with sealant. Gently tap it into the hole until it is flush with the block deck. Remove the oil galley plug to clean the passage and make sure the sleeve does not protrude into the oil passage bore.

Mount the pump up to the block and square it with the back of the block and snug it down gently. Take a small center punch and indicate the right side dowel pin hole into the block. Remove the pump and drill the hole to size #A machinist bit about 5/16” deep and then tap the dowel pin into the hole. Block the existing oil holes on the bottom of the 2.4L block: You must block the passages on the #3 and #4 main bosses on the bottom of the block, also. The larger angled hole can be tapped to a 3/8NPT (May require re-drilling to 37/64”) Remove the small round sleeve next to the hole first. And the smaller hole on the #3 boss needs to be drilled to a #R Machinist drill and tapped to 1/8NPT. The best is to use flush Allen pipe plugs and coat them with pipe sealant.

Install the pump on studs on #4 main bosses. A 14mm plug or short bolt can be installed in the other hole on the #3 boss. The sheet metal oil pickup holes will need to be slotted or you can carefully braze 2 small washers on it to line up with the studs that are installed on the #4 boss holes.

Fit the windage tray up – you will have to bend the left side up some to clear the thicker oil pan flange rail on the block. You will also have to enlarge the two holes at the studs to fit onto them. You will then have to indicate and drill two new holes for the windage tray front on the #2 boss flange area also. We suggest either a 3/8-16” coarse or 10mm x 1.5 thread bolts here, about ¾” (20mm) long.

2.3L Pump Modifications (The pump comes supplied with all other mounting hardware, etc)

The bottom boss on the oil pump must be ground down to clear the bottom of the 2.4 oil pan and the oil pickup may have to be moved up some to make proper clearance with the bottom of the pan. Make some trial fits with the pan and pump with the old oil pan gasket on the block to ensure proper fit. Some pans may require grinding and/or welding (aluminum) on the pan also for clearance. Make sure the pickup is not flat against the bottom of the pan.