[sburke]

GM Part #: 22622126
Gear Ratios:
First: 3.58
Second: 2.02
Third: 1.35
Fourth: 0.98
Fifth: 0.69
Reverse: 3.31
Final drive ratio: 3.94Type:
Transverse Front Wheel Drive, Five-speed Manual Transaxle.

Maximum Engine Torque:
210 Nm

Maximum Gearbox Torque:
230 Nm
Fluid Capacity (Approximate):
1.7 L (Dry) = M86
1.8L (Dry) = MG3

Case Material:
Aluminum

B&M install directions

Tools needed:

10 mm socket
13 mm socket
Socket driver and extension
Sharpie marker
Utility knife or file
Long, thin straight slot screwdriver
Paper towels

Disassembly:

Step 1. Clean out stuff from your console, as you will be removing this.

Step 2. Four 10mm bolts secure the center console. One of the four is under a cover directly below the part of the dash that houses the radio. Use the straight slot screwdriver to gently pry the cover off. Remove the bolt. Bolt number two is under a trim piece behind the shifter. Gently pry off the trim panel (disconnect the power window switches) and set aside. Remove the bolt. The final two bolts are located inside the area under the armrest. This is where a long extension comes in handy. Remove the two bolts.

Step 3. To remove the center console, you will have to clear the shifter, parking brake handle, and another piece near the front that lies under the car. Unsnap the shift boot and pull the parking brake up as far as you can, as this will make it easier to clear both the brake handle and the shifter. Once you’ve cleared both pieces, gently move the console forward and lift to clear the hidden obstruction. Also, at this time you will want to remove the power wire for the second power outlet (cig lighter) if your car has one. Once you have the center console removed, place it somewhere out of the way.

Step 4. As you look at the shifter assembly, you will see two pieces that look like hydraulic rams that attach to the shifter. These are the shifter cables. Mark the position right in front of the gray and white clips as this positions your shifter’s gears. Release the cables from the shifter by gently prying up on the white and gray clips. They do not come up all the way but once you have moved them up a bit, you should be able to move the shifter around and the clips will slide over the cables instead of moving them.

Step 5. At this point, you need to remove the shift knob from the stock shifter. To remove it, you must twist and pull up on it hard. After the knob is removed, remove the four 13mm nuts that hold the shifter assembly in place. Also remove the two 10mm bolts that hold on the metal bar just above the front of the shifter assembly. Next, use your screwdriver to pry up on the two retainers that hold the cables to the shifter assembly. (these are two white cylinders attached to the front of the assembly) Once you have them dislodged, lift the assembly up and remove it. (this may take a little bit of wiggling the assembly around)

Step 6. Remove the fore-aft cable end from the bottom of the knob. This piece just pulls off.

Step 7. Remove the side-to-side pivot pin by pushing the slotted end through the base. (if you break this, it’s ok because b&m gives you a new metal pin to put in)

Step 8. From underneath the shifter assembly and using a the flat head screwdriver, carefully pry the three tabs of the plastic shifter retainer (looks like a round plastic ring that surrounds the “ball” of the shifter) toward the center of the base while pulling up on the retainer to disengage it from the base. This step takes a few tries. The tabs are hard to dislodge. Be careful not to use too much pressure and break the retainer.

Step 9. Remove the upper o-ring and then pull the shift stick out of the base. There is also a lower o-ring; save both of these as you will use them when you reassemble the shifter.

Step 10. Carefully disconnect the plastic main pivot housing from the shifter. This is the piece that surrounds the ball of the shifter.

Installation:

Step 11. Grease the main pivot point of the B&M shifter and snap on the plastic main pivot housing. (grease is supplied by B&M)

Step 12. Grease the nylon pivot cup of the B&M shifter. This is the small cap attached to the end of the arm that comes off the ball of the shifter.

Step 13. Place the lower o-ring into the shift base (if it came out… mine didn’t) and then insert the B&M shifter, followed by the upper o-ring. Make sure the pivot cup (the small cap from the last step) engages into the side-to-side actuating arm.

Step 14. Secure the shifter into the housing by snapping on the shift stick retainer. This is the point where, if you didn’t already remove the stock knob, you need to remove it because the retainer will not clear the stock knob or the other end of the shifter.

Step 15. Grease the supplied pivot pin and push it into the shifter base and secure it with the supplied c-clip. This is the piece referred to in step 7.

Step 16. Grease the lower ball of the shifter and snap on the fore-aft end cable. This is a little tricky to do, as the round end of the shifter doesn’t want to slide into the end cable. Push hard is the only advice I can give. Eventually, it will snap on.

Step 17. Reinstall the shifter assembly into the car and secure with the 13mm nuts. Make sure you get the cables back into the cable ends before you try to remount the assembly. Also, make sure all carpeting and insulation is cleared from under the shifter. I found it easiest to slide the cables back into the cable ends far enough that I could attach the cable retainers (white cylinders attached to the cables) to the shifter base. Then move the carpeting and insulation as best you can and line up the holes. Use a straight slot screwdriver to clear any carpeting or insulation that might be caught under the base.

Step 18. Position the white and gray clips to line up with the marks you made on the cables and snap them back down.

Step 19. Temporarily install the shift knob and test entry into all gears with the clutch pedal depressed. Apply a small dab of grease to the plastic interference “step” that blocks entry into reverse. (aka the reverse lockout) Make sure each gear can be smoothly and fully engaged before proceeding. This should not be a problem if you marked the cables. If need be, make necessary adjustments to the cable positions until each
gear smoothly engages. Remove knob.

Step 20. Replace center console. Just reverse the order of steps 1-3. Make sure to plug in your power windows and power outlet if applicable.

Step 21. Note: slight modification to the shifter boot frame may be required to give adequate clearance for the shifter while in reverse. Use the utility knife or small file to remove a small amount of the shift boot frame and then test before proceeding. Do not completely cut through the frame as it may no longer hold its shape or install correctly into the center console. I didn’t need to do this but you may.

Step 22. Affix the shift boot to the reverse lockout sleeve. Use the supplied tie wrap if needed then snap the shift boot into the center console. Another step I didn’t need. You may want to get a different shift boot depending on your tastes.

Step 23. Install the supplied rubber washer over the threads of the shifter and into the reverse lock out sleeve. Then place the supplied spring on top of the washer.

Step 24. Screw the knob onto the exposed threads. Then install the supplied o-ring onto the knob insert and press the insert into the top of the shift knob.

Step 25. Once again test the movement of the shifter into all gears making sure all can still be fully and smoothly engaged.

Step 26. Take the car for a drive and enjoy!