[AlbinoMonkeyRat]

I just did my header on Thursday.

tools needed:
jack
4 jack stands (get the car as high as you can)
ratcheting socket wrench (with lots of extensions)
10mm socket (for the heat shield)
(IIRC) 9/16 socket (for the 10 header bolts)
hack saw (cutting torch is better, sawzall is best)
22mm crescent wrench (for the sensor on the header)
a handful of zipties (preferably black)
Liquid Wrench (or any prefered brand of penetrating oil)
the appropriate sized adapters and clamps

*****before you do any work, make sure you have the proper size adapter (or another car to make runs to the parts store*****

step 1: get the car into the spot you plan on working on it...and let the engine cool for about an hour (if you work bare-handed). Give it about 10 minutes if you have gloves.

step 2: jack the car up onto jack stands. This can be done while car is cooling.

step 3: when car is done cooling, take the heat shield off the header. (3 bolts) Discard if you like.

step 4: break the lock on all 10 header nuts. once they are all unlocked, then you can remove them. Also unplug the sensor from the header. (there is a clip on its wire, just unclip it)

step 5: this is tricky...get under the car and unscrew the 3 bolts connecting the header to the downpipe. use of Liquid Wrench is almost required here. May also need a scond person on top to make sure the bolts don't just spin. This would require a 5/8 cresent wrench. Take th header out from the top. Be careful because it is a tight fit, and you may rip the firewall fabric.

step 6: get your hacksaw (or whatever cutting tool you have) and cut off the stock downpipe. remember, the header-dowpipe assembly is about the same size stock as it is from pacesetter, so cut it nearly flush so you have room for your adapter.

step 7: Take the sensor from the old header, and put it in the new header (22mm crescent wrench). Then put in your new header and new gasket. this is also the time to giggle and stuff when you compare the openings on the old gasket to the new one. Make sure all the bolts are super tight, but do not strip them.

step 8: attach the downpipe to the header using the nuts, bolts, washers and springs that came with the new header. This is pretty tricky because the spring is a PITA. The new header should also have a diagram with it to show you the order of the washers an springs. This step also requires 2 people, just to make sure the bolts don't spin. (and for extra eyes, in case you drop the nuts, springs or washers) Don't make them tight yet.

step 9: attach the adapter to the downpipe and to the exhaust pipe, and then clamp them tight. I forget the size socket on the clamps, but if you got a full set of sockets, you have it.

step 10: tighten the header-to-downpipe bolts.

step 11: plug the wires for the sensor back together over the header. Use the zip ties to keep the wire up off the header. (I sort of had to make a chain, and hooked them onto the clips that were already in the firewall)

step 12: bring the car down off the jack stands. go from the rear first. You can get both rear jack stands out at once by jacking it up from the middle. Then you have to do the fronts one at a time from the sides.

once the jack stands are out and the car is down, you are done!

tips: when removing the old header, you may have to bend the oil dipstick tube, and unplug the air hose, just to give you clearance. just remember to plug the hose back in and do not bend the tube so much.