Finished today,
Have fun with the pics.
And have some moore fun wit my baad englisch!
For this once i will see it trough the fingers . . . .lol!
Mark all plugs and wires, some are easy to remember, some not . . .
One of the first things . . . . unbold yer fuel lines to remove ignition cover.
power steering, just two bolds and lay it aside. needs new gastket every time when removed
unbold the black line under the powersteering it gives room for removing the intake manifold in one piece
and dont forget to unbold the alternator bold closest to the engine, otherwise you dont get it off.
nonono, this is not about my clear corners . .lol . . . .just rock yer injectors gently out and lay the whole thingy aside in one piece, saves a lot of time . . . .
mount removing . . . .the three bolds into the block are veeery thight and hard to remove.
to unbold the lowest of the three: put a jack with a block of wood under the engine and raise it a little to get more clearance.
i needed a pulley puller to get it off, bold was really really stuck, only a STRONG torque wrench got it lose (tried 4 ! t-wrenches, last and strongest one did the job)( lower the engine on the jack to get better access to this area, and just pull the A/C line up outta the way)
Buttery stuff and lots of it. (it collects automatic in this area because its the coolest spot i think)
go easy on the gaskets, they are reusable . . . .
just a sad sad sight . . .
time to clean the shit out of here
time to set the time on spot.
also you can see the chain tensioner here and the block of wood keeping the engine in place without the enginemount.
put two intakemanifold bolds in the sprockets to lock timing and mark everything to be sure.
even mark your chain so you cant put it on backwards later on . . .. .
chain guides slide easyly out, just use a screwdriver to lift the chain a little
check for wear, mine where as new
the tensioner shoe locks with a little plastick snapon thingy, be gentle it kills easy . . .
remove the housing to cam bolds, easy with the gaskets on the other side.
you can put the mount back in place like i did . . .lol . . ., then just to remove it again to make room for the chain housing
mark your intake and exhaust sprockets! see the small holes for timing lock with intake manifold bolds?
progress is here . . . .
intake cam removal, leave the two short backbolds by powersteering in place, they will hold cam housing together.
lift and twist in one move so the cups dont fall out of the cam housing, and keep the housing in one piece.
i stored them upside down, almost no cup bleeding, almost no noise when i first started my engine
Head bolds . . . .expensive, 9 euro's a piece here , only once to use, clean the holes very good from fluids that will be in there.(suck it out) and let them dry.
the hidden waterpump bolds who hold the chainhousing to the engine.
i did not remove the waterpump, only these three nuts, chain housing never left the motor compartiment.
see the coolant level i left in? just enough sukked out for a proper dry gasket change.
well, half the way . . . . . piston cleaning time . . . . . never did that before . . lol.
removing dipstick was easy, just jank it out of the block with a shot of WD40 on the bottom end.
see my haynes bible? paid itself back four times on this job alone!
cylinder nr 1 was the baaad!
rusty headgasket had become so fat it destroyed itself
no cracks in head, block or gasked, the rusty fat stuff caused the farting into cooling system.
aaahhhh . . . . . .machined . . . . . shiny . . . . .
better machined than GM specs . . . . . . . . lol . . . .installation of the whole shxt is the reverse of removal.
(it goes a lot faster than removal.)