Quote:
Originally Posted by cherrington17
I'll do that, but first i want to find where the gray wire goes to (transaxle light power wire) since thats what caused the problem in the first place, so i'll trace that back and find out where it leads to. the problem must be some where along that run. Every few feet, i'll cut it, and see if its still shorted on each end.
and most of the bulbs in the location you listed are tiny halogens, so if they shorted, they'd just blow, and break the connection... so i don't think they can short and cause a permanent ground on both wires...
and w/ the dimmer module excluded from the issue, doesn't that mean the problem is somewhere in the dash? it can't be before the module, or that would have fixed the problem when it was disconnected...
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With the dimmer module excluded from the issue that means that the problem lies in in the wires from the dimmer module to the lights. They are all on the same circuit so you have to have one of the grey wires that run to the lights shorted some how. Also like I said it is unlikely but highly possible if you blew a fuse for a bulb to short out, now if your using halogens maybe not, but what about the sockets? Did you check all of your solder connections? Double check all connections. Also Cliff metinoned ruling out the module, well if you truly unpluged it that would cause in open in the circuit and you shouldn't read any continuity from any grey to ground, if so then it is still shorted of course. In short it is logical to assume that if you unplugged the module and you tested any grey wire and you had continuity then it eliminates(sp?) the module, dimmer switch, and auto park lamp relay, so yes it can't be before the module because unplugging it would have solved the problem. Thats not to say the problem isn't still under the dash cause the majority of that stuff runs in harnesses under the dash.
List of logic:
1: We know that you unplugged the dimmer module.
2: We know that if you unplugged the dimmer module, and the wire still tested as a short then the problem isn't before the dimmer module.
I also just thought of a way to make this alot easier. On the passenger side fuse panel when you open that up there is a long clear piece of plastic with holes in it, and if you take that off and look it has all the wires for the lamps right there and each leg of the circuit is coded, now Cherry you could cut there and eliminate each leg there and wouldn't have to go under the dash..give me a sec and I'll take a pic and post, but first let me give you the pin numbers
Compartment lamp/Radio ~ E6
Transaxle lamp ~ F7
Cruise Sw Lps ~ A7
Hvac control ~ B7 C1
Hazard and instrument cluster ~ B8 C2
Left front power windo and power mirror switch ~ B5
Right front door lock switch, Right front power window switch ~ C5
Left front door lock switch ~ C3