[906Chase]

Actually the CRP really wasn't that bad with the help of the puller from Advanced Auto Parts.....But no I did not have problems flooring the car before all this had happened, yet the few times after the issues I had it started I had not drove it to find out.

Which leads me to this....I couldn't figure anywhere else to go or look so I really started picking mechanics brains at local shops and talking about all the possible things that could go wrong with the "amazing" alero sensor system (they are EVERYWHERE) and started talking about dash lights etc. I didn't have any dash lights when this happened mind you, but now when I turn the key and let the dash light test run (all lights should go out if all is good, except oil and battery) the service engine light stays on (this excited me=time to use OBDII and find out what to do)

Ran all diagnostics and it came up with no codes found.....so I looked at the voltage on the O2 sensors and they all checked out. After pondering the idea the ECU may play a role I disconnected the battery from both terminals for 15min to reset the computer. I know, bad idea when there were "memories" stored in their that now would need to be recreated and may cause car blah blah blah, well the blah blah blah happened to me..Car started awesome...let it run 20 min with OBDII connected to wait for code (oh yea there was nothing on the dash at all when the car started)

Well after about 20 min and nothing with the diagnostic I said screw it and took it for a drive...It drove okishh as in I was having issues with the tach, gas peddle, and gas gauge reading incorrect. I'd give it a little gas and the tach would jump to 2400-2800 (without actually revving that high because I could hear it) and then drop back down when it shifted (which was harder than usual). Next i tried giving some more pressure on the pedal (halfway, 3/4) tach was not quick to move and when it did it went from 1500-2000ish and no audible high rev again. Let off the gas and it (the tach) would dance audibly and visibly until it came back down to idle as I slowed down.

Just came home, parked it. Started it, shut off, start, off, etc. about 10 times and it started like a brand new alero now (no long hard or extended cranks). So I was lost. Came in the house and began searching some more about the computers etc. and came across an interesting article about GM introducing the flash-PROM ECUs and their ability to be so profitable because their ability to be erased and reprogrammed in one easy step (not to mention their talents for malfunctioning). The article (or maybe it was a forum from a link in the comments) went on to talk about mis-diagnosis from mechanics because they test things often like fuel pressure, injector pulse, filters, (these costs add up) when really they didn't find power, pressure, pulse, etc. because the computer malfunctioned and wasn't telling these devices to either turn on, send a signal, or whatever and it could be fixed with an easy "flash" at the dealership on a TECH II. What I am confused about though is if I would actually need to purchase a new ECU and get it programmed to my VIN and complete the GM CASE and CRANK relearn programs, or get a simple ECU "flash" reprogram the existing ECU?

Still I have many questions. I am no longer concerned about the "normal" mechanic procedures to diagnose fuel, ignition, sensors, etc. because it would be very rare for all the sensors to go bad at once, and/or lose fuel pressure, injectors, pump, all at once. It has got to be the computer losing its mind all at once and not sending the correct signals or failing to signal at all via the OE program.

****My honest (and heavily diagnosed/researched) opinion is that a new ECM, VIN reprogram, CASE and CRANK Relearn, ANDDD A security bypass (using a resistor on the theftlock wire in the ignition only after the computer has learned the parameters and is up and running though) will make ANY Alero run 250,000 miles if regularly maintained. GM made these two systems for a reason, they get people in their garage with seemingly impossible issues, yet they have the "easy" (HUGE $$$$) answer that takes them little effort to fix.

Also seeing as the security or antitheft has been recalled once in the 1999's and almost everywhere you look, Alero owners complain about this issue, I truly believe this BCM security system is a real virus that is a ticking time bomb for your computer....think about it, a virus can get into your home computer and slowly take over and be wiped away, why not in our cars? I mean really, standard procedure for starting issues are to check ICM (expensive$$ replace), cols (expensive$$ replace), CPS (cheap but expensive$$ replace if you don't want to do labor), and the other CPS- camshaft position (cheap, quick and easy for any mechanically inclined person yet hidden and a burden under the exhaust manifold for someone willing to pay$$)?? SERIOUSLY!!?

Sorry for the rant and stuff but I have literally tested voltage, resistance, spark, icm, coils, etc. I was just jumping to what I have found::That all these things were testing good but wouldn't function when you add the computer into the mix...I mean a crankshaft position sensor really? its a friggen magnet that sends a pulse down a heavily protected set of wire to a plug that is also well mounted and protected where nothing ever touches, rubs, or gets to it....TELL ME, how does that go bad when there is no oil, antifreeze, other chemicals present to corrode the wires and short it out?!!

Also to answer your questions about the coil packs, I'm not sure really, I'd honestly have to be out there to tell which cylinder was which because I simply was going by the numbers on the actual coil pack not looking at where the corresponding plug wires went. Regardless I tested one from each coil pack (each coil has one to front, one to back) and then even to a load test and they were fine....also a fairly simple device of conveniently wound wire with heavy plastic and good seal around entire case to ICM=hard to damage when they are not getting wet, too much or too little voltage which HA AH oh yea, the computer tells the ICM what to do their too.....hmmmm It's just way to odd for every single system to not operate correctly at once when the computer has been reset so that the car will start but issues still exists bc the core of the computer hasn't established baselines yet so its telling these systems to turn while it is sending incorrect program information causes the car to run like a$$ (meaning it will only start after the battery has been disconnected for 10 min+ to reset the computer) but after you drive enough and turn car on and off, computer "relearns" it's issues and will not function properly.


ANY THOUGHTS!? haha I could be WAYYY off but I feel I know my way around a garage VERY well and have worked on plenty of cars including motor swaps, computer mapping, building race engines, hell I even had the privilege to be trusted with remapping and programming my step fathers brand new (In 2011) Harley Davidson Electra Glide for the new air system, cam, pistons, exhaust, etc. he had put in (he stated it wasn't carbureted so he had no clue where to start bc it wouldn't run correctly) and this HO has got me going NUTZ over its electronics!!