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Old 04-26-2010, 10:35 PM   #35
freeze12
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Buffalo,NY
Posts: 322
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bdyman View Post
well your about 40% right, but lets mention that you have to, pre pull the sheet metal first, not to mention tear the car down, remove all the glass the interior, the seats, the 1/4 trim, package shelf

and then you spend about a good day of drilling EVERY spot weld and the using a torch to break up the panle bond, and then doing the same thing on the junk yard section

and then fixing all the dents, and then fixing all the dents your going to put in the junk yard panle from removing it from the section

and then dry fitting the panle, and then putting all the parts back on to make sure you have nice gaps, and then taking it back off, to prep the mating flanges and the junk yard panle for panle bond

and then panle bond goes on both new panle and the cars mating flanges, do you over clamp?? no you dont panle bond has glass beads in it that you hear crack when clamped to tight and then the panle bond is no goog and will not bond

and then on the d-pillar or sail panle what kind of joint is used, well you can do a open butt, open butt with backing, a lap joint, a lap joint with spot welds

so please dont make it sound so easy when its not
I DID NOT MAKE ITSOUND EASY as You are not the only body repair specialist on this forum.Just the mention of rear quarter replacement would make any novice shake & I did not go through all the BS steps like You did as He will inquire if it will be done. Any idiot knows that no one would use 2 gallons of bondo to fix that or try pulling it out looking at the hit & rot.....Thanx
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