[mikegett]

Originally posted by 00RazziGLS+Feb 22 2005, 04:38 AM--></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (00RazziGLS @ Feb 22 2005, 04:38 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> <!--QuoteBegin-midnightalero01@Feb 21 2005, 11:27 PM
hey you don't think you could give me some details on how you did the front speakers could you cuz i'm trying to get 6.5's up front and some help would be great

Well to tell you the truth, I am still working the details of what will be done out with my coworkers. We were thinking about taking the whole pocket out of the door, and then I made that ring....but i will add a tweter pod to it also, and then fiberglass it and put the piece back onto the door. The trick will be getting that pocket to mount securely to the door again. So yeah, there are quite a few idea's being tossed around, but I WILL be having a 6.5 with tweeter mounted in my front door lol. There is no room for a crossover though, I will have to put it in the back unfortunately. I'll have to think of some clever way to show the crossovers off in the back along with my amps and digital 50 ferrad cap and all of my distribution. LOL. Its going to take me probably a good month or so to finish it up. As soon as its done I would like to try and get the alero of the month deal. We will see!

-Ryan

P.S. As soon as we figure it out, i'll let ya know. [/b][/quote]
It is not hard. I made a fiberglass of the map pocket for eclipse 6.5 comps. I suggest that you wire up the speakers as a trial before building. Tweeters are very direction oriented. You want to find your sweet spot first. It sucks to make the product and then decide that it would be better to tilt it 5 degrees north.
The map pocket on your door is held togeather by plastic posts. These posts are melted to form a flat washer behind the door panel. Just drill out the melted portion and the pocket will fall right off. You can attach it again (if you want) with screws and washers. Take the factory pocket and attach the rings with sticks and a heat gun. The wood glue for heat guns will attach but not bond permanately. Here is the good part. Fiberglass won't stick to plastic. If you are worried then wipe on a fresh coat of armoral. Just cover the pocket with a stretchy material. I used pantyhose. Then start layering the resin and glass. Once you have a few layers the fiberglass can be removed from the OEM pocket. The fiberglass is pretty strong but I still glassed in some metal strips on the back. They gave a nice support. Once you have the outside finished, fit it onto the door. flip the door over and you will see all the holes that the original posts went through. Note the amount of space that you have between the new pocket and the door. Cut out a few strips of particle board that can fit between the pocket and door. Glass those onto the new pocket. You now have a substance that screws can hold to. Put the new pocket onto the door again. Take long wood screws and lightly screw them through the door holes and into the pocket. The wood will be too thin to support this, so remove the screws and pocket. Lowes carries a metal insurt that has a threaded hole in it. You screw them into the wood to give a solid thread for bolts. Purchase some of these and screw them into the wood. Then beef it up with some more fiberglass. Now, the pocket can be placed back onto the door. It can be attached permanately with bolts or threaded rod. I prefered the threaded rod. You can cut it to size and adjust the tension with nuts and washers.
You have plenty of room for a crossover in the door. I mounted mine in the bulge behind the window control. Just put some foam around it so the thing wont squeak. Let me know how it all comes out. I like the door but have been attempting to vinyl the new pocket. I am having no luck. If possible. Could you show the pic at work. I would like to know if it is possible for this to be vinyled. I bought three way stretch to use. would something else be better? Thanks and good luck.