[clutch1]

Originally Posted by cherrington17

about how much resin/hardener per pod? (how much should i buy)
just buy a gallon, it'll come with about the amount of hardener you need. I use b440 resin from uscomposites.com


so... i gotta make the whole skeleton outta mdf, then stretch the fabric over it, resin the fabric, then 2-3 layers of mat, on the inside?
the skeleton is usually just a base and a raised up ring, and the stretched fabric is what makes the overall shape.. if you stretch the fabric and it isn't what you like, take it off and change it around a bit. The rest sounds right.. you don't HAVE to lay the FG on the inside.. but it'll make sanding it sooooo much easier since it'll leave the outside much smoother.. especially if it's your first time working with FG.

would it be better to have a bigger wood ring, mounted just above the actual mounting ring, so the whole thing sits flush?
what I wish I would've done is a reverse mount setup... just make 1 ring, and use a router to round the top of it nice and clean.. then mount the speaker to it from the back.. looks really good. But yea, you can do what you said to, a flush mount, you're choice


so.. with the pod removed, what do i do to make a funtional skeleton for the setup? its rather curvy... i figured i'd lay it over the existing to get the shape... but that seems to be opposite of the advice i'm getting here. (btw, i'm at work.. so i can't research it much beyond what i'm getting here)
well depending on the shape you're going for, I'd probably just make a flat wood base, then raise the speaker ring about 3" off it and stretch.. but you can do it however you please! If you want to keep the map pocket, then integrate the stock piece into the skeleton.. don't be afraid to hack it us as needed, lol.

here's the reverse mount I was talking about


vs flush mount


basically reverse will cut off what you see at the surround.. and flush just sinks it into the panel, you'll still see the screws