Quote:
Originally Posted by Nas Escobar
No, that's far from it. If everything is going dead as you hold it on start and it makes a CLACKING noise (as if the starter has power but the engine won't turn over) then it's a battery/alternator problem... and it can end up being both because alternators and water don't mix. The alternator on the Ecotec is in an odd position. It's under the throttle body... or at least, that's where the cables for the alt are.
|
no clacking noise at all so i don't think its the alternator and the battery is good because all the lights on the dash, the radio, and the headlights are fine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nas Escobar
If you hold the key on start for 10-15 secs, it should make a nasty sound which is reminiscent of a "clac clac clac clac" in fast pace. If this is true, it's the battery or alternator. This is of course, assuming the battery has enough juice to even flicker the lights. Sometimes, the car will just make a softer click noise and you can hold it forever in start, but you have no lights at all, not even the odometer will be on. I think this is the situation that applies to you. I have a feeling because you've had electrical problems before, you may have issues somewhere between the battery, the alternator, and the cables. I know the cables on my Camaro have acid corrosion all over the battery area because this car has gotten wet with coolant before by the battery area, and the previous owner didn't tighten the battery terminals right. I know have to figure out how to deal with it.
|
this situation does not apply to me as stated above.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nas Escobar
TAKE OUT THE SPARK PLUGS BEFORE ANYTHING... IF that water circulates through the engine, you will damage it. That way, if you can get it to crank and turn over, you can drain the water as well.
|
i took out the spark plugs and yes they are wet and burnt. i also checked to see the piston position with a long screw driver and sure the screw driver was wet but also going from left to right starting with 1.
1 piston position is down. 2 piston position is up. 3 piston position is up same as 2. 4 piston position is down same as 1.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nas Escobar
Also, the fuel pump priming is NOT a clicking noise, it's a quiet hum that you have to be paying attention to when you put the car on the on position. The hum usually lasts about 5 to 7 seconds. You may have to have a friend put it on the on position and listen to it by the rear driver's side tire.
|
yes i do hear the hum sound. i first said it was like a buzzing sound when i was giving my description.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nas Escobar
The fuel rail pressure relief valve is near the oil cap.
It's a schrader valve that looks similar to a tire valve stem. You can get a small flathead screwdriver once you take off the small cap and press the little pin inside of the valve in. Fuel should spray out for 3 seconds. If the spray is weak or very little fuel actually comes out, then you have a fuel issue as well.
|
i have not tried to do this yet.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nas Escobar
If you do your own work, I would suggest testing the alternator as well. You have to get it out and take it to the parts store. They will tell you whether or not it's a good alt.
|
i don't think its the alternator. to be honest with the way how this is going i think its the starter or the PCM.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nas Escobar
I should also mention, take out the relay for the fuel pump when you crank the engine to purge the water. You don't want to exchange flooding water for gasoline in this situation because then the engine will have a hard time normalizing and then you might fry your cat with all the unburnt fuel
|
i did this as well when i took the spark plugs out. but as i said, it won't turn over so i don't think anything is mixing at this point anyway.
The PCM does what exactly? is that the main computer chip is that why you need to program it? and do i have to take it to the dealer so they can program it?