Quote:
Originally Posted by billytheman1188
How could the alternator have anything to do with the batt dying? You think it's drawing a charge from the battery causing it to die? I have a H/O alt on the 3500 so i wont be using this one but i'm jw what's causing it to die.
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So do you allso believe that the chicken is independent of the egg?
read this
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/engine6.htm
or this
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/under-...r-problems.htm
Having a little basic knowledge will get a lot farther on the side of the road then posting via iphone.
And then go to your local auto whatever and have them, charge and load test your battery, and then test the charging system.
With the above statement it is advised that you follow them as listed.. because if your alternator is for example.. making sufficient current to run your car while you disconnect the battery for a short time..
but not enuff to recharge the battery and run your blower fan, and lights and whatever... so just because you were able to drive for 45 min and not be stranded dosent mean that your alt is 100percent.
Like the chicken that precedes the egg.. or whatever way it happened your battery should be mostly charged before testing the capacity of it. if you boost your car and drive it to part-changer store deluxe when they test your battery without charging it, it will fail. When your charge a battery, with any kind of descent battery charger you can see how much of a draw reference the current you make available to the battery to consume... this lets you know if it is even able to accept current... using your jumper cables is like holding a funnel over a container and then just dumping a bucket of water over the funnel and all... yes some of the water went into your container but not in the way it was intended..
if you had poured it slowly you can fill it to its capacity.
in this way your battery may have absorbed enuff current to run your car on the way home.. but not filled itself to its Capacity.. and because of this when you went to try and start your car after it wasn't sufficient.
Once your battery has been charged for some time (unless it will not accept a charge which means its garbage usually) then you can Load test it to see if it has retained what it is rated to.
Now if you have never load tested a battery or charging system, you probably don't own a load tester, or battery charger. Take it to a shop, or a friend that knows that they ar doing... take the battery out of your car and trickle charge it overnight if possible.
while you have your battery out do yourself a favour and check it for cracks, swelling of the case and if there is a "eye" check to see if there is a colour when you look into it before and after you charge if possible.. sometimes battery will have a dark eye when they are simply discharged.
Check on your battery tray, for signs of leakage of your battery fluid, will look like a stain or maybe calcifyied stains. You may see this on the battery too...
Then inspect your cables, and connectons for corosion.
I cant count on my fingers (or toes) how manny times a freind or co-worker has had starting/batt issues that were because a cable was loose, corroded or damaged.. allso check the condition of the connection from your alt to your battery where it is visible and esp the connections.
doing these things can save your a lot of trouble( but esp money), where taking it to a shop who will charge your for parts and labor for bad parts or whatever when it could be a loose cable or corrosion.
Dc systems work as a closed loop, the power has to get back to the battery from the alt to charge it just as it has to flow from the battery to your computer or starter or whatever... if your connections are loose or corroded or dirty, your alternator may be making full output and only 20 percent or less may be going to the battery.. in this way you can see how it may take a few weeks/months to end up with a dead battery, and changing either part will not cure the problem.