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Old 02-27-2010, 07:17 PM   #2
[ion] C2
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For one, the part number should be AC138. The eBay ad seems to think it's AC160. Also they have a "lifetime" warranty, right? As long as that seller is still around, and you pay shipping both ways, and they deem that it's a manufacturer defect and not normal wear.

I wouldn't trust it, but whatever.
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Old 02-27-2010, 08:02 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by [ion] C2 View Post
For one, the part number should be AC138. The eBay ad seems to think it's AC160. Also they have a "lifetime" warranty, right? As long as that seller is still around, and you pay shipping both ways, and they deem that it's a manufacturer defect and not normal wear.

I wouldn't trust it, but whatever.

I was just looking for an opinion. I guess ill just go with the normal 80$ from autozone where its for sure going to work the first time.
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Old 02-28-2010, 10:10 AM   #4
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IAC Solution

So last night I took out the IAC valve and cleaned the part up and the inside as well. It was absolutely smothered with carbon. After we put it back in and I tried to start the car it would catch and immediately die. Only way the car would stay running is if you held the gas down to keep revving the car. So it looks like I will be changing that part today and hopefully that will do it. Its better that we found out this way than having the car die on me while driving and end up getting a tow. So my conclusion is that with all of the carbon being on the piece it held it open all the time which let the car run but was the reason for the high idle. After cleaning the part off so it could run normal efficiency the carbon wasn't there to keep it open anymore, therefore the part is defective. I'll let you guys know what happens when I change the part.

Just in case people decide to search for this in the future if you have these symptoms you should, 1) clean it 2) test it 3) replace it if needed

Symptoms:
Idle goes down when shifting from P to R
Idle goes down when turning the wheel
Car stalls during start up or is a rough start
Lots of white smoke that evaporates in the air quickly

Last edited by Chris2000 : 02-28-2010 at 01:53 PM.
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Old 02-28-2010, 12:12 PM   #5
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ya, let us know what happens. i have the exact opposite problems you do (idle goes down and almost stalls when turning the wheel and shifting into gear sometimes), and ive been told its the same valve.
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Old 02-28-2010, 01:56 PM   #6
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ya, let us know what happens. i have the exact opposite problems you do (idle goes down and almost stalls when turning the wheel and shifting into gear sometimes), and ive been told its the same valve.


oh shit my bad i editted the post. I put up when i meant to put down. I just changed the valve and the car is back to running like a champ!! All in all I took care of my problems under 100$

12$ for ECT sensor
85$ for IAC valve

I'd say go ahead and change these two, or just the IAC valve. However in my case after changing the ECT it never started up at 2k RPM again.

After replacing the valve there are warnings on the instructions that say if the car goes up to 1800-2000 rpms after the replacement don't worry. Drive your car around for a bit and get up above 45 MPH so that everything resets.

Before you put in the replacement look in the hole and check if its all black and carbon'd up. I took 4 Q-tips and got so much shit out of there. After that I just put a rag around the handle of a socket and scraped that around in there for a bit too to pick up anything I left behind.
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Old 02-28-2010, 02:02 PM   #7
[ion] C2
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Eh I installed an IACV on a customer's LD9 yesterday and it was still idling around 2000. He drove around at the 40MPH it says but no difference. I know there's another way to reset the IACV settings but I can't tell without HPTuners hooked up. He's coming back today so I'm going to disconnect his battery if the IACV hasn't reset itself by now. I told him it was either the IACV or a huge vacuum leak, but in order to find it we'd need to pressurize it and listen for hissing, so he'll have to find a shop to do that (besides Speed Industry which is far from where I work).

What's weird is his camshaft position sensor was brought up on the code reader, so he replaced that already, but right after I clear it, it comes right back. I don't see how the cam position sensor would cause such a high idle, but I'm looking into it.
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Old 02-28-2010, 02:12 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by [ion] C2 View Post
Eh I installed an IACV on a customer's LD9 yesterday and it was still idling around 2000. He drove around at the 40MPH it says but no difference. I know there's another way to reset the IACV settings but I can't tell without HPTuners hooked up. He's coming back today so I'm going to disconnect his battery if the IACV hasn't reset itself by now. I told him it was either the IACV or a huge vacuum leak, but in order to find it we'd need to pressurize it and listen for hissing, so he'll have to find a shop to do that (besides Speed Industry which is far from where I work).

What's weird is his camshaft position sensor was brought up on the code reader, so he replaced that already, but right after I clear it, it comes right back. I don't see how the cam position sensor would cause such a high idle, but I'm looking into it.

Hmm, maybe his timing is off on the cams. I haven't looked into the cams themself for the alero so I wouldn't know if it is VCT or not. When my timing belt snapped on my contour before resetting the cams to top dead center was a PITA.

As for resetting the IAC the car also has to be at normal engine temperature. So before he went out and drove up that high did he at least let his temp gauge get to half way?

What took care of my high idle as I also said above was replacing the ECT sensor. It's only 12$ so ask him if he wants to change that, it can't hurt.
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