02-01-2008, 06:41 AM
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#1
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GL Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Claremont, NH
Posts: 299
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Effen blower motor resistor!
So yesterday, after having my car warm up for about 15-20 min, I get in it to go to work, and I realized that my car was rather cold.....NO HEAT...and the symptoms of a bad b.m.r a rise...fine and dandy...pissed but I know what the problem is...but when I went to go get a new one at lunch break...the damn heat "works" ( my heat isn't hot...more like luke warm...damn water pump) like nothing ever happened. This is the second b.m.r and its a carquest..( replaced it back in may) my question is...are these sensitive to cold or something? It was around 18 that morning and about 10 or colder with a strong wind....
I donno...I guess its just another annoying quirk....
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02-01-2008, 09:25 AM
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#2
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GLS member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Grand Forks, ND for school; Langdon, ND home
Posts: 2,632
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18 degrees lol, thats not gonna hurt it. mine was fine at -32 here the other day on a napa resistor.
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2001½ F150 XLT Crew Cab- true dual glasspacks with x-pipe, AEM intake, SCT X3 with VMP custom tunes, full stereo system, HID 55w heads and 35w fogs, 35% tint front and 20% rear, Lightning tail lights
04 F6 Sno Pro Team edition- MBRP race can, ODS clutch kit
01 YZ125- bored out to 144, PnP cylinder and head, Pro Circuit WORKS suspension, many other mods
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02-01-2008, 10:43 AM
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#3
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GLS member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Where you should be
Posts: 5,577
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If all your air flow settings work it isn't your blower motor resistor. If you have cooler than desired air it could be the heater core.
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02-01-2008, 01:21 PM
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#4
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GLS member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Montreal, Qc, Canada
Posts: 1,876
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^^ like he said. And by the way, heating your car for 20 minutes is A LOT! I hope you are not complaining about your MPG during winter... try to think about our air quality in the next 10 years...
They say an engine is warmed properly in 30 seconds (ok not the cabin of course, but the engine gets warmer when you are actually moving around than sitting still). I always leave mine 1-2 minute before going in winter, but not more.
That would be different if it was Turbo tought...
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2 door 2000 Black GX With a stick: M45 eaton supercharger - Quad4's 57mm Throttle body - Custom WAI - KYB GR-2 struts - CM Lowering springs - Front and rear strut tower brace - R1 concept zinc plated drilled/slotted rotors with semi-metallic pads - short shifter.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alerosaint
the #6 bolt torque..its impossible to get...unless I use telekenesis
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02-02-2008, 02:42 PM
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#5
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GL Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Claremont, NH
Posts: 299
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the next day (after i started this post) my heat didn't want to work again, but today i got a new b.m.r -$6 more than my old one and redesigned and also from carquest.
But i think that could have been the root of all of my heating issues, like the luke warm air, that is now rather hot, my floor vents are working and have roughly the same temp as the frt defrost and upper vents- I tested this at idle. Before the new b.m.r, to get decent heat, the car had to be driving, and my floor vents had nothing coming out.
I haven't tested the rear defrost yet...its too warm, so hopefully later on i'll try it and hope it works...
My heater core isn't an issue, i don't have any inside condensation or anything like that- and the reason why i let my car warm up so long is because my trip to work is less the 7min and i have slightly better gas mileage with a car thats warmed up even for that short distance, and not to mention i like a nice warm cabin on a 5 degree morning.
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02-02-2008, 03:29 PM
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#6
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GLS member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Montreal, Qc, Canada
Posts: 1,876
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The rear defroster is electrical, its not air going on the back window. (maybe i got something wrong here) There is however some air vents under both driver and passenger front seats for rear leg heat.
As for the blower motor resistor, if that fixed your issue, well thats the most important part.
__________________
2 door 2000 Black GX With a stick: M45 eaton supercharger - Quad4's 57mm Throttle body - Custom WAI - KYB GR-2 struts - CM Lowering springs - Front and rear strut tower brace - R1 concept zinc plated drilled/slotted rotors with semi-metallic pads - short shifter.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alerosaint
the #6 bolt torque..its impossible to get...unless I use telekenesis
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02-02-2008, 04:39 PM
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#7
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GL Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Claremont, NH
Posts: 299
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well the resistor is electrical..maybe the bad one affected the rear defrost, and maybe my problems are solved...I hope....
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