Car ran fine, now dies right after being started

[polarexpress17]

Originally Posted by AleroB888

The problem is with these cars, if the MAF is unplugged, or fails, the PCM reverts to SD mode, and uses the VE (Volumetric Efficiency) table in the computer to calibrate the fueling. That VE table is rarely calibrated closely enough from the factory to keep the car running smoothly, and also affects the tranny's shifting.

Like i said, i didn't intend on driving the car, i just wanted it to idle. so trans and the fuel/spark tables weren't that much of a concern for driveability. I'm thinking its the IAC valve as well, it started up after i sprayed starting fluid in it, and i had to keep it around 2,000-2,500 or else it would die. but after it was warmed up it ran fine.

and LOL @ the grociery comment, I have the alero for daily driver duties, thats what i bought it for. It has decent power and it has 4 doors and a trunk. I don't need it to go fast that is what my other car is for

Thanks for the help guys

[clutch1]

If the IAC is acting up it'll idle perfectly with the throttle cracked. My friend cobbled together a 3.1 and the TB didn't match up to the UIM so the IAC couldn't get air into the engine... it would idle with the throttle literally baaarely cracked.

I would test your fuel pressure and volume, report back with numbers.

He could also have a clogged catalytic converter.

[sleepyalero]

Sounds KIND OF like torque converter.

[xXManwhoreXx]

Originally Posted by sleepyalero

Sounds KIND OF like torque converter.

Hmm idk about that

[sleepyalero]

Usually if it stalls It means its bad.

[zzyzzx]

Originally Posted by mfuller

He could also have a clogged catalytic converter.

Maybe completely clogged, but doesn't a clogged catalytic conveter usually just partially clog up and cause other noticable preformance issues well before it would keep a car from idleing? Having said that, I've personally never had a catalytic converter go bad.

[zzyzzx]

At 140K miles the IAc needs to be replaced if original anyway.

[polarexpress17]

ok, now the car is doing it again. It did it at work a few nights ago, i sprayed starting fluid in it again and it fired right up. Then i hit a deer on the way home.

car ran and drove fine after hitting the deer (just cosmetic damage) I changed the hood, fender, headlight, and front drivers door. Now the car doesn't even start at all unless starting fluid is sprayed in. It will start and die as soon as the starting fluid stops.

I've never had the security light come on but my sister says that it came on twice when she drove it. and since i changed the drivers door i think that it may have screwed up the passlock (what a surprise, POS system) I tried the 10 minute reset deal, no luck. I tried the resistor mod between the black and yellow wires and no luck. I started the car on starting fluid and had a friend keep spraying it so it was running when i snipped the yellow wire. I don't know if that would work or not since the injectors weren't firing but it was worth a shot.

Anyways, my security light doesn't flash. it stays on permanently when you turn the key, and only goes off once you try to start the car.

I'm pretty sure now that the Passlock is the problem since she told me the security light was flashing when she drove it (did it twice for her) I don't have the money to pay for a new key cylinder, I'd prefer to just bypass the thing all together since car theft is not an issue in the area i live in. But from what i understand a remote start is basically the only way to bypass it. Has anyone else figured anything out for it or know of a way to permanently bypass it? (the resistor thing didn't work)

Any info is greatly appreciated, I hate driving my probe back and forth to work because of the mileage it puts on the built engine and the road salt and stuff on the paint, I need to find a way to get the car fixed.

Thanks for any help