02-19-2010, 12:31 PM
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#1
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GLS member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Akron, OH
Posts: 1,307
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Control Arm Bushing
Ok so when i took my car into Firestone for an oil change ($17 ftw) i got the lifetime allignment as well and they said that the one front control arm bushing completely snapped/broke and the other one was right about to any day. the car does feel like the steering just isnt right and it makes odd squeaks. not sure if thats related but its happend as of late. they wanted $425 to fix it (lmfao yea right, 300 of that was just the labor. so now i need to order some new ones. ebay didnt have any kits- so do any of you know where a good place to get a set of these would be?
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2002 2d Black Alero. 2.2L Ecotec. The Murdermobile.
Officially addicted to bass.
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02-19-2010, 01:49 PM
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#2
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GX Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Poland
Posts: 115
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www.rockauto.com i purchased there whole front suspension
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more cars..... here .....
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02-22-2010, 12:34 PM
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#3
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GLS member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Akron, OH
Posts: 1,307
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ok the receipt says:
BUSHINGS (Both Lower-Front)
K6698 LO CTRL ARM BUSH/KIT
REMOVE & REPLACE CONTROL ARM SHAFT
AND BUSHING- LOWER, ONE SIDE
says it costs 67.91 per side and these parts im seeing are like 11-15 dollars. i have no idea what the hell im looking for. dude says something snapped and the other was about to snap. im lost
__________________
2002 2d Black Alero. 2.2L Ecotec. The Murdermobile.
Officially addicted to bass.
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02-22-2010, 01:36 PM
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#4
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GL Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Katy, TX
Posts: 241
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Don't buy the bushing kit. You will have to have them pressed out and in and it looks like a mother to do it.
I purchased the front suspension from rock auto also, except for the inner and outer tie rod ends. I did replace the outer tie rod ends but purchased locally.
I replaced the sway bar bushings, which was a real PITA. Definitely grab a friend to help you do this. Someone will have to go from the top and someone from the bottom to get the new ones back on. Also lube them so they don't make noise.
The outer tie rod end, lower control arm and sway bar end links are pretty easy and can be done by yourself. Just make sure you have a good torque wrench and a service manual to check the torque specs. Some of the bolts are just impossible to torque so I just guessed.
Just to reiterate buy the complete control arm with new bushings and ball joint. You'll save more time and money that way, IMO.
About the noise, it could also be the strut mount. I replaced that too. I had a lot of noise from the front end. Squeaking, crunching and creaking. 95% of the noise is gone now. I do think the front end is noisy by design.
My steering is a lot better. However there this slight, and I mean very slight shimmy every once in a while when turning. Not even enough to really notice or mention but I am OCD so I have to mention it! Not sure what the cause is but it's really nothing. I hope it doesn't get worse. If it does it may be the inner tie rod ends or worse, maybe the rack.
Last edited by jlong : 02-22-2010 at 01:41 PM.
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02-22-2010, 02:10 PM
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#5
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GLS member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Akron, OH
Posts: 1,307
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i have a buddy of mine im gonna pay to do it, i just need the right parts and i have no clue which ones to get
__________________
2002 2d Black Alero. 2.2L Ecotec. The Murdermobile.
Officially addicted to bass.
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02-22-2010, 03:26 PM
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#6
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GL Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Katy, TX
Posts: 241
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L & R Control arm. 1 Each
MOOG Part # K80446
MOOG Part # K80428
Sway Bar bushings, 24MM. You will need to measure yours. 1 per vehicle
MOOG Part # K6679
Sway bar Link 2 per vehicle
MOOG Part # K6600
Outer Tie rod end 2 per vehicle
MOOG Part # ES3455
Inner tie rod end 2 per vehicle, not sure if you need this.
MOOG Part # EV408
Strut mount 2 per vehicle. It's up to you which one you purchase, one is half the price.
MOOG Part # K6520
OR
ACDELCO Part # 501194
I say go with Moog on everything, they appear to be beefier that other brands and get a lot of good reviews. That is if you don't want to do this for another 100K miles. I sure hope to get that much out of the suspension parts.
As for the strut mount you may also need to replace the struts. I think they should be replaced every 45K-50K miles.
Hope this helps.
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02-22-2010, 07:02 PM
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#7
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Wide Open Throttle
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Warsaw Indiana
Posts: 641
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There are poly bushings available. I bought some for a friend's 01 grand am and have the part numbers on reciepts if you are interested.
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02-22-2010, 10:12 PM
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#8
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GL Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Crofton, MD
Posts: 839
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I have a set of poly lower control arm bushings if you are interested. I also have a kit to do the whole rest of the front end...all new, includes inner tie rod ends, outer tie rod ends, lower ball joints and end links. PM or email me if you are interested.
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02-23-2010, 01:32 PM
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#9
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GLS member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Akron, OH
Posts: 1,307
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ok the shop quoted me 67 dollars for the KIT. the first part you listed is 98 and you said i need two? im really lost here
__________________
2002 2d Black Alero. 2.2L Ecotec. The Murdermobile.
Officially addicted to bass.
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02-23-2010, 04:05 PM
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#10
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GL Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Katy, TX
Posts: 241
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Well the shop does have the ability to reuse your old control arms which is why they quoted the parts so low. Ask them what the cost of labor to press the new ones in is.
They may also be assuming you wont need a new ball joint. Depending on how many miles you have and also the fact that the bushings are bad you may need a new ball joint. The first 2 parts are for left and right control arm which is complete with new bushings and ball joints already installed. all you do is remove the old control arm and put the new one in.
The ball joints from the factory are riveted on which will add to the labor of changing them. For the DIY'er it is so much easier to buy the complete lower control arm with new bushings and ball joint already installed.
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