Little end of summer audio project...

Cashdollar2009 · 10-15-2009, 01:18 AM

Went from two 15"s to two 15" and a 10". 15"s are ported. Then went from 250rms Visonik amp to 600rms Hifonics on the 10, and 1000rms on the 15's. Then just recently swapped out the crunch for the picture 1600rms Hifonics brute. Figured i'd share.

Most likely re-doing it this summer, more of a learning experience more than anything else.

Also upgraded the Big Three in 1/0!

Let me know what you think!

lonnie · 10-15-2009, 08:03 AM

Looks good...could have been alittle cleaner on the inside of the box..no need for all that excess glue and sealer. I like it! I really like how you got the cap and amps in there with very little wire showing. Don't like that fact that they are strapped to the back of the box. You must not put anything in the trunk...LOL.

Keep it up I like!

Cashdollar2009 · 10-15-2009, 09:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lonnie

Looks good...could have been alittle cleaner on the inside of the box..no need for all that excess glue and sealer. I like it! I really like how you got the cap and amps in there with very little wire showing. Don't like that fact that they are strapped to the back of the box. You must not put anything in the trunk...LOL.

Keep it up I like!

I actually made a seperate mounting board for the amps and capacitor because i knew it wasn't good to mount them straight to the box. I just have it set up so vertical so i can still put the seats up.

And the glue, i was rather paranoid of air leakage at the time...

I'll try to get a better picture of the mounting board up later. Thanks for the input!

Ryan from Ohio · 10-15-2009, 09:15 AM

Ouch.

Theres some problems here...

1) Your alternator cant support 1/0 wire

2) Mixing a different sub in actually has a negative effect

3) The ports on the bottom directly behind the sub changes the cone loading. This will make it uneven and be potentially catastrophic for the subs.

JLw7123 · 10-15-2009, 09:48 AM

nice system and ya u will need a bigger alt or another battery.

Fi-Alero · 10-15-2009, 11:08 AM

Quote:

1) Your alternator cant support 1/0 wire

I did mine in 3/0 lmao. Overkill ftw

Sucks that you mixed subs. I could probably throw one of those same 15s in a properly built box on half the power and get louder with an overall better sound.

cherrington17 · 10-15-2009, 12:33 PM

i'm jealous of you guys and your clean wiring... i have no idea how to clean mine up.

but i'd listen to FI and Ryan, and consider revamping that box.

truely unfortunate that its already built though

lonnie · 10-15-2009, 01:02 PM

I thought he said he upgraded the big three...that would include the alternator right?

Cashdollar2009 · 10-15-2009, 01:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ryan from Ohio

Ouch.

Theres some problems here...

1) Your alternator cant support 1/0 wire

2) Mixing a different sub in actually has a negative effect

3) The ports on the bottom directly behind the sub changes the cone loading. This will make it uneven and be potentially catastrophic for the subs.

I do apreciate all of the advice!

Like i said, it was mainly a learning experience. This summer i plan to buy a better alternator, build a better box, and stick with just two 15"s, and most likely upgrade the subs as well. I hit 141.5 dBs sealed with the two 15"s and a cheapo visonik amp off of 250rms in my old setup. Since then, with all subs operating i'd guess around 143ish. Not a whole lot of increase. But then again my ports are firing up into the rear deck, and the box is so big that i feel it is blocking a lot of the sound from entering the cabin. I got a lot out of this build, and plan to do quite a few things a bit different next time. The entire project took me three days...errr... nights i guess i should say, about 12 hours total. I wish i wasn't as stressed so much for time when i did this. I've done a good amount of research, but Ryan could you maybe go a bit more in detail about the uneven cone loading concept?
I haven't heard hardly anything on this, and i'm still confused as how it does not affect other port-style enclosures? I've seen some rather *different enclosures just searching around online. But thanks again everyone for the input!

Cashdollar2009 · 10-15-2009, 01:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lonnie

I thought he said he upgraded the big three...that would include the alternator right?

Exo here gives you a good idea as to what the "Big Three" is. Basically all it is is the Positive power wire frome the battery to the alternator. And then the Gorund wires from the engine block to the battery negative, and the battery negative to a good ground point on the cars chassis. The alternator is a whole other upgrade, not included in the typical "Big Three" phrase.

Ryan from Ohio · 10-15-2009, 02:26 PM

Basically the alternator all have a small screw on them and cant electrically handle much over 4 Ga wire- to the point of melting the bolts off...

As far as cone loading.

In high performance boxes anything besides a flat surface parallel to the back of the sub will create uneven cone loading.

Concept isnt bad here. Just move the subs up so they are not sitting on the port.

Ian 2000GL LA1 · 10-15-2009, 02:34 PM

[quote=Ryan from Ohio;501597]Basically the alternator all have a small screw on them and cant electrically handle much over 4 Ga wire- to the point of melting the bolts off...
QUOTE]

i don't really agree. i ran 5K in my car for 6 months with 3 extra batteries and the Big 3 in 1/0, grounds 2x1/0 nothing ever went wrong with the wiring or the alternator... and as for the 3 different subs i don't see a problem as long as there all in there own chamber and there all around the same powerhandling,

not trying to slam u ryan but i ran my mustang for a year with an 8" mtx 5000 and a 15" pb sub (both 250w 1 dual 4 and 1 single 4) on a RF 550s. nothing ever went wrong.

Cashdollar2009 · 10-15-2009, 03:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ryan from Ohio

As far as cone loading.

In high performance boxes anything besides a flat surface parallel to the back of the sub will create uneven cone loading.

Concept isnt bad here. Just move the subs up so they are not sitting on the port.

I see i see. Thanks!

And with the mixture of subs, i assume you are talking about the acoustics and such? I have each sub chambered seperately, and have a seperate smaller amp pushing the 10". Each amp came with it's own bass remote so i have been using them to do minor "fine tuning" up front, but this is after i tuned my amplifiers. Basically i have two 12V swithces up front to turn either of the amps off if i please. 10" sealed for rock, 15"s ported for hip-hop, or both on for SPL. Just as an example... I understand it's a rather amateur setup, but hey, i really do like all of the feedback i can get, it's hard to improve without some sort of criticism...

JLw7123 · 10-15-2009, 03:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cashdollar2009

I see i see. Thanks!

And with the mixture of subs, i assume you are talking about the acoustics and such? I have each sub chambered seperately, and have a seperate smaller amp pushing the 10". Each amp came with it's own bass remote so i have been using them to do minor "fine tuning" up front, but this is after i tuned my amplifiers. Basically i have two 12V swithces up front to turn either of the amps off if i please. 10" sealed for rock, 15"s ported for hip-hop, or both on for SPL. Just as an example... I understand it's a rather amateur setup, but hey, i really do like all of the feedback i can get, it's hard to improve without some sort of criticism...

nice it is going to be effin loud when you are done with everything. are you going to put dynomat in you car.

Cashdollar2009 · 10-15-2009, 03:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JLw7123

nice it is going to be effin loud when you are done with everything. are you going to put dynomat in you car.

Not sure yet. If i do, it's going to be the trunk first, i'm sure you can imagine why.

But we'll see, all depends on money, time, and... money.

JLw7123 · 10-15-2009, 03:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cashdollar2009

Not sure yet. If i do, it's going to be the trunk first, i'm sure you can imagine why.

But we'll see, all depends on money, time, and... money.

you are going to need a lot of dynomat for the trunk what is the RMS of each 15 inch sub.

Cashdollar2009 · 10-15-2009, 03:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JLw7123

you are going to need a lot of dynomat for the trunk what is the RMS of each 15 inch sub.

These are single voice coil 4-ohms, so wired down to 2-ohms they are getting around 550rms a piece. My uncle is supposed to be shipping me two of these new here soon, except they are the dual 4-ohm models, so once i wire them down to 1-ohm, they should be getting around 800 watts rms a piece.

Petra's is the company that manufactured them, discontinued in the mid-1990's, somehow my uncle has two of these that he is sending me still unopened, i'm pretty pumped!

JLw7123 · 10-15-2009, 03:42 PM

nice sounds like a great deal

lonnie · 10-15-2009, 03:56 PM

You mine as well take the trunk off cause the rattle is going to be a bitch.

StoopidAlero · 10-15-2009, 05:36 PM

Very clean install on the amps. Kudos for that. As far as the subs, Ryan is correct as always. If you want to keep your 15s and get a few more DBs, I would rebuild the box but tweak just a few things.

1. Lose the 10
2. Relocate your ports
3. Possibly think about having the subs share the same chamber with one wide port on the bottom. I built a box similar to this with my subs sharing a chamber and a port almost the width of the box on the bottom. Did 145.8 with 2 15 Mojo's and 2 Majestic Class Ds.