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Old 01-05-2012, 11:22 PM   #41
MnG
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Oh.... and I guess the verdict is that the Dexcool is OK?
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Old 01-05-2012, 11:24 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by IRONDOG442 View Post
ACIDIC EROSION breaks down the Nylon carrier material, and wicks around the silicone rubber seal until it starts breaking down the carrier around the intake ports. This is based on the known properties of Nylon66 and the typical failures I've personally seen in 10 years of working on every GM FWD vehicle and repairing their intake gaskets, The fact that the 'dead' coolant port doesn't erode as badly is testament to the fact that the acid needs 'flow' or must be refreshed in order to start eroding the nylon. It may also be true that the sludge that typically builds up in the dead coolant port protects the nylon carrier from further erosion. GM had choice between several corrosion inhibiting acids in their formulation of DEX, and probably didn't choose wisely. Aftermarket OAT type antifreeze products use other types of OAT inhibitors that are not known for softening plastics. This may have been pure dumb luck based on the fact that GM had covered themselves with a patent and a proprietary formula, or it may be that the new competitors in the market knew the dangers and chose more wisely. My personal suggestion is that anyone that currently has DEX in their car should change the LIM gaskets to the most recent design for their vehicle, and switch to Prestone Long-Life "mixes with any" (not DEX-compatible) antifreeze, which uses a different corrosion inhibitor that is NOT known to soften plastics.

How expensive would it be to switch out the gaskets? What is the risk of not doing it? I know prices will vary depending on labor charges.... but I am thinking around 275 ballpark?


One other question for you guys, what type of oil do you guys put in the 3400? I see that 5-30 is the factory spec, but I put in 10-30 in the last oil change and plan on doing it again. 5-30 seems too low to me and we have very hot/humid summers in St Louis. Synthetic vs non-synthetic?

Last edited by MnG : 01-05-2012 at 11:47 PM.
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Old 01-05-2012, 11:49 PM   #43
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umm lower intake seals on a LA1 is around $700 at most shops with labor.
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Old 01-06-2012, 01:43 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MnG View Post
How expensive would it be to switch out the gaskets? What is the risk of not doing it? I know prices will vary depending on labor charges.... but I am thinking around 275 ballpark?.........

It's nothing to fool around with, the results can be pretty severe. Sometimes mistaken for a bad head gasket. On my 2003, It had 24K miles when I bought it, and it had the LIM leak, which I pointed out to the seller. It now has 29K, and I have been putting off the repair because I want to upgrade the LIM when I do it. But no performance issues except the leak itself are showing up at this time. Check these areas:





There's a good How-to thread on GrandAmGT.com, I'll try to locate it. It requires attention to detail and has a few pitfalls, and you need the proper torque wrench and revised specs.
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Old 01-06-2012, 04:06 AM   #45
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pH is the negative logarithm of hydrogen ion content, ehtylene glycol, oxygen and aluminum has absolutely zero to do with hydrogen ions and their respective amount, please refer to the Law of mass action in laymans terns, you sir are a effing idiot.

Wow bud, an effin idiot eh? You may be a chemist, but your understanding of coolant may not be as "all that and a bag of salt" as you may think. Hell, maybe I was misinformed about a coolants reaction when it is in contact with cast and aluminum in the same system.... but here it goes.
Green Coolant should have a ph level of about 10.5 and a bit lower at 7.5 in extended life coolants. When the respective coolants drop below these levels, the additives in them break down and the coolants acidic level rises. To be even more specific, it is the additives in coolant that give it it's ph rating in the first place!
Now, long life, or dex in our case, is the better coolant for aluminum protection... period. The biggest mistake I have seen is when mixtures are not proper between the coolant and water. Ususally the first indicator of the depletion of additives, or it's reserve aklalinity, is damage to the rad and heater core fins. Problem is, by the time the issue is a "visual one" in the coolant, the damage is already done. If the ph level of dex is monitored the way it should be, it will not damage the gaskets. If gaskets are being attacked, the fault lies between the door and the steering wheel.... not the coolant. Make sure that the ph level does not go below 7 with your dex and you will be fine.

Now, back to your statement of calling someone what you called me.... please keep your personal banter to yourself. Explaining your case the way you did was excellent, but you really should think about what you are doing to others with that kind of attitude. Yea, you are just some guy at the end of a keyboard somewhere and I should not be so easily offended. Truth is, yes I am, and I hope you do not live in "real life" with that attitude. An attitude like that is going to result in nothing but a sad and lonely life. Drop the attitude and people may actually be intrested in your knowledge and insight!
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Old 01-06-2012, 04:16 AM   #46
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Ok, I actually went back and read the rest of what was posted by you and that is some really good info... I do apologize about posting my statement there before reading the rest of it, but case and point. I shut down at the point you resorted to name calling. You seem to be a very intelligent individual... let that say all, no need for that kind of stuff to be said to anyone that is fully willing to listen and learn!
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Old 01-06-2012, 07:41 AM   #47
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switching to synthetic oil is a great idea, especially since the engine is still young. it will increase the engine life, keep it cleaner than conventional oil, and get you better gas mileage. also it's more resistant to temperature breakdown.

and if you only drive like 10k miles a year, you can get away with once a year oil changes, although those kind of creep me out.


not sure about what weight you should use though, i know thicker is better for sustained highway driving in hot temps.

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Old 01-06-2012, 04:48 PM   #48
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I ALWAYS use full synthetic oil with the Lucas oil additive.
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Old 01-06-2012, 08:43 PM   #49
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So thats what my car looked like about 80 or 90 thousand miles ago... lol
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Mods: K&N Cold Air Intake, 8000k H.I.D. Low Beam, 3000k H.I.D. Fog Lights.
Wants: SLP Exhaust, Ported UIM & LIM, 65mm TB, Lowering Springs, Rims, Black Interior.
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Old 01-06-2012, 09:38 PM   #50
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So thats what my car looked like about 80 or 90 thousand miles ago... lol

Now ya got some fancy new headlights
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Old 01-06-2012, 11:08 PM   #51
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Quote:
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Now ya got some fancy new headlights

Yessirrr
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2001 GLS 3.4L Coupe "Black Mamba"

Mods: K&N Cold Air Intake, 8000k H.I.D. Low Beam, 3000k H.I.D. Fog Lights.
Wants: SLP Exhaust, Ported UIM & LIM, 65mm TB, Lowering Springs, Rims, Black Interior.
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Old 01-07-2012, 12:46 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IRONDOG442 View Post
Okay Kwack [sic] Dexcool does degrade Nylon 66, I am a chemist and I have forgotten more about organic chemistry than you ever knew. So The Dex cool statement is not misinformed if you would like me to provide you molecular proof, I shall. Most ignorance on here I let slip but I can't on this one.

Wow, you want a medal or a chest to pin it on. You could have at least spelled my name right.....
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Old 01-08-2012, 02:38 AM   #53
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Originally Posted by AleroB888 View Post
It's nothing to fool around with, the results can be pretty severe. Sometimes mistaken for a bad head gasket. On my 2003, It had 24K miles when I bought it, and it had the LIM leak, which I pointed out to the seller. It now has 29K, and I have been putting off the repair because I want to upgrade the LIM when I do it. But no performance issues except the leak itself are showing up at this time. Check these areas:





There's a good How-to thread on GrandAmGT.com, I'll try to locate it. It requires attention to detail and has a few pitfalls, and you need the proper torque wrench and revised specs.

What exactly is it I should be looking for? Just for the slight rust/moisture there?
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Old 01-08-2012, 03:45 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MnG View Post
What exactly is it I should be looking for? Just for the slight rust/moisture there?

There is slight leakage in the pics there, oily to the touch in the darker spots. In the summer a couple years ago after a hot run, you could see some sizzling going on at the gasket side edge in the first pic, but that seems to have stopped. I do occasionally find drops of oil under the car.

Just keep a close watch on the coolant and oil, check frequently for leaks. The results can vary from almost no problems at all, to coolant getting into the intake tract -- I know that sounds impossible, but it happened on my boosted car (white smoke out the tailpipe).
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Old 01-09-2012, 10:13 AM   #55
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99grandamse on GAOC also posted a good how to.

Here is our 3100. It leaked for 2+ years, but only on the outside.



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I could never actually get rid of the alero as much as I hate it some times
Baby Sandy: 2001 2.4 Grand Am se 1.5 (auto) 32k-119k : Sept.2002-Aug.2010
Mickey: 2001 Alero GL 2.4 5-speed (Nov. 2010) 109k-???
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Old 02-24-2012, 01:52 AM   #56
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I would be interested in finding a head unit like yours....i know you said you could help us out with it.
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